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Discussion starter · #41 ·
If you have the lifetime drivetrain warranty and you want "no questions" mods, you are limited to:
Mopar performance free flow airfilter
Mopar Performance Cold Air Intake
Mopar Performance cat back duel exhaust system
Mopar Performance header
None of the above will void your warranty as long as you have a Dodge dealer/service center install them.
Anything else can be questioned if not properly installed, although the dealer will have to prove whatever you did caused it to malfunction if it comes down to it.
My attitude is why give them a reason? I got my Mopar Performance cat back system off Ebay for $375 delivered and it cost a hundred bucks to have the dealer install it.

Good point. Many will argue the law, but as you said "no questions" mods, go for the Mopar ones.

Unless you dont mind a LOT of noise, go with the Mopar drop in filter over the Mopar CAI. I believe the headers and exaust give a better horse power increase than the CAI anyway.
 
That is slightly depressing but I will live, and the exhaust from mopar is s expensive, and Im guessing two grand is what carbon fiber hoods run, and would love to get one but Im getting my Cali painted in a couple weeks and going half black and leeaving the bottom Inferno red. It should look good, and next friday I am going to get limo tint on it. I'll show some pictures. And the place that does my tinting, also does stickers for vehicle and I think I am going to have one made of CaliberForumz.com and put in in the black glass.
 
There is a company out there that offers an aftermarket hood for our cars. It's sort of like an SRT4 hood, but with just the one scoop in the middle, not the resessed side scoops. I'm pretty sure it's fiberglass and they run about $600 or so. I just noticed you have an AWD so the header is out completely. An option would be to just swap out the factory muffler with some sort of free flow replacement.
By the way, the tu-tone paint sounds great!
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Hmm, so i'm guessing Mopar isn't going to put out a header for the R/T. And good god, the carbon fiber hood, and the damn cat back exhaust are so expensive, but I can only imagine that it must be worth it.
The Mopar header does work with the R/T FWD. It does not work with the R/T AWD. The problem is the AWD part, not the R/T part. If you dont have AWD, the Mopar Header will fit.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
There is a company out there that offers an aftermarket hood for our cars. It's sort of like an SRT4 hood, but with just the one scoop in the middle, not the resessed side scoops. I'm pretty sure it's fiberglass and they run about $600 or so. I just noticed you have an AWD so the header is out completely. An option would be to just swap out the factory muffler with some sort of free flow replacement.
By the way, the tu-tone paint sounds great!
The Factory AWD exaust manafold does not look that restrictive to me. I have not removed it and measured it, but the outputs are designed simular to headers, except it is a heavy part. My gues is even if they made a header for the AWD it would not be of much benifit.

I found the high flow exaust helps the most for performance.
 
Awesome and yea right now I am trying to look around for good ideas on the tu-tone, I think I am going to stick with the Inferno on the bottom and go with a high gloss black on top, with the limo tint windows and the black rims, along with the black headlights, I think this Cali will look damn good.
 
The auto stick surely helps out the cvt. i dont have the exact times but i know that off the line the autostick is the way to go even if you want the full power use the autostick but dont shift, the car will shift itself just before you redline. i wouldnt reccomend it on a newer caliber but one with 10,000 plus miles on it is a good place to start trying the speed shifting and such with the autostick.I raced a 46 camaro this way and i totally smoked it...granted that the 2002 camaros had a v-6 with only 200 hp but still my R/T has 176 hp!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Have you timed it? The autostick does make the car feal faster. When you feal the shift it feals like the car is pulling hard, but that does not mean it actually gets from 0-60 faster. Time it. Try an area that you can test on the same piece of pavement over and over again. Test with the engine at the same temp, and floor it without using the autostick and time it to a specific speed. Then do the same with autostick, put it in 1 and leav it letting it shift, then try again shifting yourself, at different rpm's.

I tried this, shifting at peek torque, peek hp, letting autostick shift, and just leaving it to move the cvt smoothly through infinate ratios. I used a belltech comptuer for timing. I found the fastes time for 0-60 was without the autostick. If feals slower, but when you measure it I fonud it was faster.
 
I just managed 6.1s.

Mechanically stock SRT4.

That's 1/10th better than Dodge estimates. I'm happy :)
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
i have the awd r/t and when i use the auto stick i get around 10 sec even 0-60 time
I have tried mutiple ways using the cvt and found the cvt in auto mode feals slower, but it is faster. To me having an autostick on a cvt is kinda crasy, whats the point of making fixed ratios on a transmission witn infinate perfect ratios? but what it does do is give you a simulated gearing and the feal of it pulling when it jumps from a ratio to another.

I tried drive and flooring it, autostick leavint it in low and letting it upshift, using autostick and shifting just before redline, shifting at peek torque, shifting before peek shift, and every attempt provided measurable slower runs than just leaving it in auto mode. 10 seconds seams about right, but to me with a state of the art 172 hp engine, and the smallest car they make Id think it would be faster. My previous V6 had less power than that, and many of the 80's v8 were about the same, so 10 seconds just seams slow to me, but its probably the weight, low torque, high wind coeffeciant, and the cvt slowing it down.

I just managed 6.1s.

Mechanically stock SRT4.

That's 1/10th better than Dodge estimates. I'm happy :)
Thats more like it. Did you rev it to 3000-4000 and dump the clutch, and stomp it?
 
After realizing that the timer kicks in when the car rolls rather than when releasing the clutch, i've started to experiment a bit more. This time I revved it to about 3000 and slipped it a bit rather than dropping it all together.

I had full ESP and AC turned on. So, I should be able to drop to 6 or maybe 5.9 if I manage the start better.

It was sort of a last-moment decision to turn on the timer and didn't have time to bother with the rest.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
I test drove an SRT-4 once without the salesman in the car, so I have less than an hours experiance with the car, but I found that you need to get it up in the rpm range for power to come on.
 
I have my R/T FWD on 20's a lil heavy though 5spd and i can rock out 8sec and thats holding a cellphone camera while shifting i'll get a buddy in the car to vid tape it next time... =)
 
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