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THIS THREAD REFERS TO SOLDERING COMPONENTS ONTO THE SWITCH PCB.

IF YOU WISH TO FIT ILLUMINATED SWITCHES LIKE IN A CHARGER SEE THE STICKY THREAD
http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=24167


Analyzing PCB circuit on the passenger side I noticed that there are all ready to solder the components. On the circuit diagram there are two diodes that are not present on the PCB. Then just download the circuit diagram of the Dodge Charger and make the comparison.

circuit Diagram
Left Dodge Charger, - Dodge Caliber right


The material needed to make light switch:

1. Two diodes 1N4007 SMD 5mm x 2.8mm (or similar)
2. Resistor 1206 SMD 560 Ohm 3.2mm x 2.5mm
3. Green LED SMD 0603 1.6mm x 0.8mm

For 3.2V 20mA LEDs and 500 MCD using the resistance of 1 kOhm.

The only problem is the extremely small components, and here we need soldering iron with variable temperature, little bit, tin from 0.30 mm 60/40 and a steady hand.

LEDs 0603, resistance 1210 - compared to normal LEDs



PCB of the switch, passenger side







PCB with components installed













GREEN - GREEN JADE - GREEN


The switches are diagonally symmetrical and can be rotate without creating a short circuit.




After few days I replaced all the green LEDs with blue LED 3.2V 20mA SMD 0603 300 mcd
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Driver's side.

I would say, all this work because Dodge wanted to save a maximum of 4 euro for all ports
Make the driver's side is easier than the passenger. Already has the pitches and well tinned.

The material used;
1.Led Green SMD 0603 3.2V 20mA 1.6mm x 0.8mm approximately 300 MCD (3 pieces)
2.Led Green SMD 3.5mm x 2.8mm PLCC 3528 (2 pieces, maybe a green to red to unlock the door and a door lock, but hard to find with the same voltage)
3. Resistance 560 Ohm 1206 SMD 3.2mm x 2.5mm (2 pieces)
4. SMD 1206 330 Ohm Resistance 3.2mm x 2.5mm (1 piece) ideal 390 ohm

Soldering iron with variable temperature, little bit, from 0.30 mm 60/40 tin flux and a steady hand.




Circuit Front - Rear





Resistance 560 Ohm SMD 1206 (LED open passenger side)



Replaced with 560 Ohm resistor 1kOhm (LED driver's side)



Resistance 330 Ohm SMD 1206 (The LED of the rear doors are connected in series)



LED SMD Green 0603



Led Green SMD 3528 to illuminate the door lock buttons



To illuminate the door lock buttons I made two holes 2mm and I have filled with the white glue stick (gun-melt).








With blue LED 3.2V 20mA SMD 0603 300 mcd and resistance 390 ohms (instead 330 ohms )
Updated 23/04/11








If you like it, I can post the LED Conversion for Central Console
 

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:wow: You have more patience than me.....LOL!! Nice work.:smileup:
 

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WOW....this is awesome!! those parts are really small too lol I would lose them in a heartbeat. nice write up tho, will be looking at this in the future! :rep:
 

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Excellent write up - like this stuff.

I would struggle seeing these small parts so I close my eyes to the dead switches.
 

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Have moved this thread to the Knowledge Base. If you don't want to buy all the separate parts and do all the soldering; RavenGhostwolf has a DIY in this same section (http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=24167 ) using the window switches from a Dodge Charger that can be got from the dealer for about $40 and passenger doors for $8. The job becomes plug-n-play.
 

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Awwww, Brad, you beat me to it. I'd go the way Raven did if I still had a Caliber and wanted the lighted switches.
 

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Could you fix the pictures not loading pls?... not much of a tutorial with no pictures :).

thanks
Unless the original poster sees this, there is nothing we can do. The images were stored offsite, and seems they were removed.
 

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The pics were helpful but if you intend to solder LEDs onto circuit boards you probabaly already know what you are doing.

There is another thread on our Forum for fitting the illuminated window switches from the Charger which is straightforward.

http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=24167
 

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Any chance you can tell me where to solder the led to illuminate the power door lock buttons. I got the power window buttons all hooked up but cant figure out where to put the ones for the door locks.

Thank you
 

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Pictures pleassseee :) Otherise I will solder them anywhere :) Just kidding, but if it's possible I (and for sure also some other peeps) would be VERY thankful!! :)
 

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Any chance you can tell me where to solder the led to illuminate the power door lock buttons. I got the power window buttons all hooked up but cant figure out where to put the ones for the door locks.

Thank you
Pictures pleassseee :) Otherise I will solder them anywhere :) Just kidding, but if it's possible I (and for sure also some other peeps) would be VERY thankful!! :)
Since the pictures have lost there original links, you couldn't have picked a worse thread to follow. You should have used this one if you wanted to do a lot of soldering: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=6395 .

I suggest you use the pictures to find the power connections on the window switches and run a wire over to the door lock switches to power those lights.
 

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actually the switches that already have the lights are only $19 for drivers side, and $6 each for the other three doors. So, it would be plug and play for a whopping $37....no modifying and you get factory lighted switches. The Caliber shares the same switch panels with other DCX vehicles that have the lights.
specifically the CHARGER
 

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http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/DODGE/SWITCH-Left-Power-Window/4276125/04602787AA.html

Switch. Left. Power Window..
This fits your DODGE.
Stock Code 04602787AA
Fitment Notes Trim: (*ZL.)
Your Price
$ 9.85
Installation Instructions N/A
Additional Notes [CBW,CTM], [CTK], [CTL], 1 gang.
Alternate Stock Code
Categories Electrical > SWITCHES
Assemblies Switch - Body; Switches Doors and Liftgate; Switches Doors, Decklid, and Liftgate; Switches, (Body); Switches, Body; Switches, Door, Decklid;
Manufacturer Chrysler


Switch. Power Window, Window and Door Lock..
This fits your DODGE.
Stock Code 04602780AA
Fitment Notes Trim: (*YL.)
Your Price
$ 50.10
Installation Instructions N/A
Additional Notes [JPD,JPH] 6 gang, [JPD] 6 gang, 6 Gang, 6 gang [JPD[, 6 Gang [JPD], 6 gang high current.
Alternate Stock Code
Categories Electrical > SWITCHES
Assemblies
Manufacturer Chrysler

Product Assemblies
Image Name Description Product Application Notes
Switches Doors Switches Doors SWITCH. Window and Door Lock. 6 gang. Trim: *O0, . "Power Windows, Driver One-Touch". Required: 001

http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/DODGE/SWITCH-Power-Window--Window-and-Door-Lock/4315523/04602780AA.html
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I'm so sorry, but this forum does not allow editing of posts. The images have been deleted from Immageshack, and I have them restored but can not restore it to the first post.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
THIS THREAD REFERS TO SOLDERING COMPONENTS ONTO THE SWITCH PCB.


IF YOU WISH TO FIT ILLUMINATED SWITCHES LIKE IN A CHARGER SEE THE STICKY THREAD


Analyzing PCB circuit on the passenger side I noticed that there are all ready to solder the components. On the circuit diagram there are two diodes that are not present on the PCB. Then just download the circuit diagram of the Dodge Charger and make the comparison.

circuit Diagram:

Dodge Charger


Dodge Caliber


The material needed to make light switch:

1. Two diodes 1N4007 SMD 5mm x 2.8mm (or similar)
2. Resistor 1206 SMD 560 Ohm 3.2mm x 2.5mm
3. Green LED SMD 0603 1.6mm x 0.8mm

For 3.2V 20mA LEDs and 500 MCD using the resistance of 1 kOhm.

The only problem is the extremely small components, and here we need soldering iron with variable temperature, little bit, tin from 0.30 mm 60/40 and a steady hand.

LEDs 0603, resistance 1210 - compared to normal LEDs



PCB of the switch, passenger side







PCB with components installed





in fuction















 

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Discussion Starter #19
Driver's side.

I would say, all this work because Dodge wanted to save a maximum of 4 euro for all ports
Make the driver's side is easier than the passenger. Already has the pitches and well tinned.

The material used;
1.Led Green SMD 0603 3.2V 20mA 1.6mm x 0.8mm approximately 300 MCD (3 pieces)
2.Led Green SMD 3.5mm x 2.8mm PLCC 3528 (2 pieces, maybe a green to red to unlock the door and a door lock, but hard to find with the same voltage)
3. Resistance 560 Ohm 1206 SMD 3.2mm x 2.5mm (2 pieces)
4. SMD 1206 330 Ohm Resistance 3.2mm x 2.5mm (1 piece) ideal 390 ohm

Soldering iron with variable temperature, little bit, from 0.30 mm 60/40 tin flux and a steady hand.





Circuit Front - Rear





Resistance 560 Ohm SMD 1206 (LED open passenger side)



Replaced with 560 Ohm resistor 1kOhm (LED driver's side)



Resistance 330 Ohm SMD 1206 (The LED of the rear doors are connected in series)



LED SMD Green 0603



Led Green SMD 3528 to illuminate the door lock buttons



To illuminate the door lock buttons I made two holes 2mm and I have filled with the white glue stick (gun-melt).



With blue LED 3.2V 20mA SMD 0603 300 mcd and resistance 390 ohms (instead 330 ohms )
Updated 23/04/11



in function
As you can see from the picture, the LED driver's side and still slightly lower than the other three



final result



With blue LED SMD 0603 300 mcd 3.2V 20mA 390 ohm resistor (330 Ohm before)
Updated 23/04/11


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Updating
I replaced all the green LEDs with blue LED SMD 0603 300 mcd 3.2V 20mA
The two small holes (door blocks) filled it with white glue melt and replace the resistance of 330 Ohms with 390 Ohm.
The intensity of the light is just perfect with the LEDs from 300 mcd.
Work completed.





 
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