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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning folks,

I've got a 2009 SXT that I'm preparing to do some proactive maintenance on. So far it's been a very reliable car and has required very little work since I purchased it in 2013. Since then, I've put on over 100K miles and have replaced the front brakes and rotors, front struts, front lower control arms (mainly because at the time I didn't feel confident in doing ball joints), and the alternator.

Well, it's time to tackle those front brakes again, because they're grinding something fierce. So while I'm at it, I figure it'd be a great time to replace those wheel bearings as well, because I know that's coming, as well as my suspension bushings, because I've been chasing some noise and "looseness" when going over bumps for a while now. Might give the tranny (manual) a good flush and replace the fluid in that as well.

The bearings are where I came for advice. I just replaced the front bearings/hubs on my wife's Escalade last year, and aside from knocking those hubs out of a knuckle, it was straight forward and easy. The bearing was pressed into the hub, and the hub was bolted to the knuckle. My SXT on the other hand, looks like it's a bit different than that. From the service manual, it appears as if the bearing is pressed into the knuckle, and then the hub is pressed into the bearing. This means that I'm going to need to remove the knuckle regardless. I haven't jacked it up and started taking it apart yet, because I need to use it this week, but I will probably crawl under it today and verify the configuration of the hub and knuckle. I want to get a start on ordering the parts and tools that I will need to do the job. I figure that I could purchase the entire bearing/hub/knuckle and replace that fairly quickly easily, but for the difference in price between replacing it all and just buying/replacing the bearing alone, I can easily afford a shop press and still come out about equal.

So here's my laundry list of questions:

1. I see a Timken hub/bearing on Rock Auto with 4 bolt holes. Is this for the SRT only? (I'll probably climb under it today and verify).
2. Should a 1-ton benchtop arbor press be able to handle this, or should I just go for broke and get the 12-ton standing press.
3. I'm going to need to get an alignment when this is all said and done, correct?
4. Any advice before proceeding with this job?
5. Anything else that I should be looking at while I've got it all taken apart?

Thanks! I'm looking forward to diving into this. Hopefully it's not going to be a major PITA.
 

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The front bearings are as you say: bearing presses into knuckle and hub presses into bearing.

Rear bearings are an assembly with the bearing and hub that just bolts in place.

You will need an alignment when you are done. Make sure to follow the factory service manual instructions to the letter...make sure you don't put the bearing in backwards.

Assuming you are going to keep the car awhile....As you will be taking most of the suspension apart to get the knuckle off the car, you might as well replace the struts and all the bushings:

I highly recommend the SRT-4 struts and springs, great upgrade for the car. The struts are still available new, but you need to buy the springs used. Look on one of the SRT facebook marketplaces and post that you want a set, you should be able to get a set for a few hundred. Standard Caliber vs SRT4 Caliber suspension springs...

As for the bushings, here is what I did:

New control arms with spherical/polyurethane bushings already pressed in (it says SRT4, but they fit all Calibers): Caliber Performance Control Arms 2008-2009 Caliber SRT-4 / 07-12 Compass / 07-12 Patriot

Moog polyurethane front and rear swaybar bushings.

Rear camber arms with spherical bushings: Spherical Bearing Adjustable Rear Camber Arm Kit For Mitsubishi Lancer Sliver

Rear toe arms with spherical bushings: Mitsubishi Lancer (CY4A) 2008-16 Adjustable Rear Toe Arms With Spherical Bearings

Nolothane trailing arm polyurethane bushings: Nolathane REV102.0006 Nolathane Trailing Arm Bushings | Summit Racing

Siberian rear lower control arm polyurethane bushings: https://siberianbushing.com/catalog/DODGE/USA/CALIBER/PM/2008

You should also replace at least the front and rear engine mounts. New Caliber owner - a few technical questions
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the response, John!

I like the idea of those SRT4 struts and control arms. Heck, between those and the sway bar bushings, I might as well replace the subframe while I'm at it. That is tempting, since I know it's only a matter of time.
 

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If you live anywhere near the rust belt you might be better off just replacing the entire knuckle assembly...they're not all that expensive and they come with things like the dust shield that you can't buy separately anymore. I just did the front brakes on my '10 last Friday and the dust shields literally disintegrated in my hands. Even if I could get them replacing them requires removing the hub, and good luck getting that out of a rusty knuckle!
 

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This is the problem. Once you start, there is always just one more thing you should do while you are there and you end up spending thousands on a car that may not be worth it.
The way the car market is right now, unless a car is an absolute pile of rust that's one good pothole away from splitting in two or wrecked in an accident it's probably worth fixing.
 
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