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I have been having this problem now on and off for over a year and am stuck on what the problem may be. Any time I drive my '07 Caliber on the highway for over 60-70 miles my transmission over temp light comes on and I have to shut the car down and let it reset. I originally had it looked at and the fluid was changed but the problem persisted. I have looked this problem up on the internet over and over and have not found a solution. I would like to believe it is a sensor but the dealership said they had no idea. I also saw some different discussions online saying that the transmission cooler may be bad in these cars so maybe that could be a possibility? My theory is that it's a sensor of some kind because I don't believe the trans is actually overheating. If it were to overheat, and I stopped for 5-10 minutes to let it cool down, then kept driving, it would have to overheat quicker the second time; when in actuality, I can drive the same distance again before it overheats. I know many people have had this problem but has anyone seen a solution or does anyone have any suggestions of how I can approach the dealer with this problem again? Here is some background on my car. It is an '07 with 129,000 miles and is maintained regularly. The miles are mostly highway and the car has given me little to no problems besides this transmission issue. Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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There have been some cooler problems reported on the '07's. You may be having a delayed reaction.
A quick check - the transmission control module is under the dash at the top of the footwell on the left side. Make sure both cables are properly plugged in.
 
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Do I need to take the dash apart to check this or can I just look underneath?
 

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The transmission cooler that is at issue is attached to the CVT. It's more like a heat exchanger that sends the heat to the cooler inside the radiator. Changing the fluid will not affect the issue. Dave has probably looked at the CVT closer, but I believe there is an integral sensor in the cooler. Whether it's the cooler or the sensor, the cooler assembly is still what needs to be replaced. Since your dealer is either STUPID, or just playing STUPID (for laziness reasons), I would find another dealer. It can be a Jeep dealer, just not the one you've been dealing with, or save some money by going to a good independent mechanic.
 
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So I found a different dealership who has heard of this problem. They told me to bring the car in and they would look at it and hopefully be able to fix the problem. They said it may be as simple as a computer flash or could be a bad trans cooler. Has anyone heard of these issues?
 

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Revisiting Frank's issue. There is a member here (dodge owner) that had erratic performance from the transmission. After a whole bunch of stuff... to make a long story short - there was a problem with the speed sensors (ISS and OSS) on the CVT, and no real transmission problem.
One other thing that should be looked at is the multiconductor cable that goes to the large circular electrical connector on the transmission. One member had a broken wire that prevented the CVT from upshifting. Another member has an intermittent wire that makes and breaks contact when wiggled and bent - also in this cable and causing transmission issues.
 
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I am dropping it off to the dealer in the AM so hopefully I will get an answer then. As for the videos, it looks and sounds nothing like that. It happens after 45min or so of highway driving at 70mph. That is when the light comes on and the car goes to limp mode.
 
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Okay so after day one at the dealership they found nothing wrong with my car. They said they searched for all codes and nothing showed up. They said the car said it never went into limp mode even though it did about 9x. The tech also told me he drove the car all afternoon trying to get the light to come on and it never did. I went back in the evening to get something out of the trunk and the tech told me he spoke to Chrysler and they think that my cracked manifold has something to do with the problem. They said because it is letting in too much air it is messing with the ratio and screwing up the computers. This could also explain my terrible gas mileage. Does anyone think the manifold can be causing the overtemp light to be coming on?
 

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Don't know about the temp light, but yes a cracked manifold (either intake or exhaust) could really mess up performance. Any significant leaks that interfere with air intake or exhaust discharge (before the cat) will "play all sorts of games" with the computer.
 
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Day number 2 at the dealer and they told me that I could pick up my car and they gave me an estimate on the manifold which came to $400. Does this sound like a reasonable price?

When I got in my car this morning I noticed the gas gauge never moved and that my mileage was exactly where it was when I dropped off the car. If they drove the car the 60 or so miles they said they did this clearly would have changed. When I approached the guy handling my car he said maybe the cars digital mileage reader doesn't change when the computer is hooked up which is a load of BS. If that's the case how do you explain the gas still being over the full line (because I literally filled the tank the night before dropping the car off). This makes me wonder if they ever looked at the car at all or just charged me $98 and said the problem can't be diagnosed, realized I had a cracked manifold, and tried to get the $400 for that.
 

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Day number 2 at the dealer and they told me that I could pick up my car and they gave me an estimate on the manifold which came to $400. Does this sound like a reasonable price?

When I got in my car this morning I noticed the gas gauge never moved and that my mileage was exactly where it was when I dropped off the car. If they drove the car the 60 or so miles they said they did this clearly would have changed. When I approached the guy handling my car he said maybe the cars digital mileage reader doesn't change when the computer is hooked up which is a load of BS. If that's the case how do you explain the gas still being over the full line (because I literally filled the tank the night before dropping the car off). This makes me wonder if they ever looked at the car at all or just charged me $98 and said the problem can't be diagnosed, realized I had a cracked manifold, and tried to get the $400 for that.
Drive the car until the light comes on and then take it to the dealer. You could also do a phone video of it happening. Then again, maybe a new dealer is in order. Jeep uses the same CVT if you can't find another Dodge dealer in your area.
 
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The only problem with that is I have to drive the car continually for 50-60 miles before the light will come on, and once it does, the car goes into limp mode and I can't drive it until the light goes off. This is actually the second dealership I have gone to regarding this. The first one said they never heard of it and only changed my fluid and this one never actually drove it and is saying that the whole issue is caused by my cracked manifold.
 

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The only problem with that is I have to drive the car continually for 50-60 miles before the light will come on, and once it does, the car goes into limp mode and I can't drive it until the light goes off. This is actually the second dealership I have gone to regarding this. The first one said they never heard of it and only changed my fluid and this one never actually drove it and is saying that the whole issue is caused by my cracked manifold.
Drive it 50 miles, then start driving around the block that the dealership is located until it craps out. Your other option is to do what I did when my CVT started acting up and the dealer gave me the "we can't find anything wrong", I traded it on a Kia and didn't look back.

If you're not under warranty, I suggest you trade the car off. The damage has been done, and the cost of replacing the CVT is going to result in you dropping 4 Gs at the dealer to replace it. You could probably find a used salvaged CVT and have it installed for half that. But is it worth it?
 
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Here is an update on my Caliber. After conferring with Chrysler, the dealer was convinced that the cracked manifold was causing my transmission over temp because the leak was messing with the cars computers. I got the manifold replaced and couldn't believe the size of the crack in the old one. The car is running like a new car compared to how it was prior so I hope this has fixed the problem. I haven't driven far enough to find out yet; however, I have a good 70 mile drive ahead of me next weekend so I guess I will find out then.

Also, while the car was in for the manifold they did a second look at the CVT. The tech said that the CVT was overfull with fluid and drained a quart and 1/4. I found this to be a bit odd because I had the fluid changed recently at a different dealership so I am hoping they put the correct amount in. More importantly, I am a bit worried that they may have put the correct amount in and the tech misread it this week and drained too much. I guess only time will tell.
 

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Also, while the car was in for the manifold they did a second look at the CVT. The tech said that the CVT was overfull with fluid and drained a quart and 1/4. I found this to be a bit odd because I had the fluid changed recently at a different dealership so I am hoping they put the correct amount in. More importantly, I am a bit worried that they may have put the correct amount in and the tech misread it this week and drained too much. I guess only time will tell.
The overfill can cause the overtemp light to come on. Excess fluid causes foaming of the fluid and improper fluid flow, which can lead to overheating.
As far as fluids go - a little lower than normal is better and safer than overfilling.
 

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I am having the same issues! I can't afford to take the car to the dealership.
I took it to auto zone and he said a weird code came up that he had never seen before.
I think I am taking it to a different auto zone just to double check but.
Can anyone tell me things that are not complicated to try first?

Like the sensor temp or anything else. Please I am really desperate to have my car back, it's been 2 months now :(
 

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Look at the electrical plugs on the transmission control module - located toward the left side of the driver's footwell. Look at the electrical plugs on the transmission itself.
Make sure they are fully plugged in. Also look at the wiring to the plugs - look for frayed or broken wires - we've had a few transmission problems due to wiring issues.

Also, do you know the number of the code? (Leter followed by numbers possibly with a letter suffix)

One other thing is to have the fluid level and "quality" checked - most folks will need a shop to do this for them however.
 
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