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Put new tires on and found both front struts leaking. Gotta replace 'em. I'm gonna do it myself - it looks fairly straight forward and I have a fair amount of automotive experience. Just wanting to ask you guys if you know of anywhere to get the struts for less than $80 a side. I've looked and that's the best I've found. Any suggestions?
 

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That appears to be a very good price. But if you're still under warranty, it should be free.
 

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you might have to look online as well as ebay to find the ones that fits the cally and for the price you looking for.

Some members here have changed theirs so they will have an idea how easy or hard it is to replace them
 

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I've looked around the Internet a little. If you don't order the dealer replacement strut (i don't know who makes them for Chrysler), i found a couple. One is a KYB for around $88.95 each but one web site was selling the same one's for $63.95 each. Monroe makes some for $94.00 each, up to $189.81 each. These are from a quick search i did, I'm sure they are a lot of other company's and brands to chose from.
 

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Look at rockauto.com. They are around 152 shipped for both. These are the KYB brand.
 

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2007 Dodge Caliber R/T, 48k miles, (Anchorage, AK, in case that matters)

I got an estimate of $1,340 to replace two front struts and bearing plates + put on new brakes (pads, I guess), front and rear. The front brake pads have 20% left, the rear brake pads, 10%. (According to the estimate.)

First, I need to separate the cost of replacing the struts from the cost of replacing the brakes. The guy neglected to make that separation. Probably I should get another estimate or two.

I've not replaced struts before and I don't know if I have all the tools I might need to do that. I would give it a shot if the shop replacement is a lot and the work doesn't require equipment that I don't have.

I vaguely remember replacing some Audi brake pads years ago.

At what point should I replace the pads? Is 20% pad remaining too soon? With 48,000 miles, I might go another 10,000 miles to metal on metal. Is 10% too soon? With 48,000 miles, I might go another 5,000 miles before I got metal on metal. Is it best to change all four at once for some reason?
 

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The shop should give you an itemized estimate if they are reputable and really want the business.

Front struts - KYB's are about $80-$90 each in the lower 48.
DIY struts require a warm spring day and a spring compressor - several YouTube vids show the basic process. You should also download the service manual if you don't have one.
Also, you will need a wheel alignment ASAP after changing struts.

Brake pads - new ones won't hurt, relatively easy DIY. YouTube vids and manual will guide you through this.
Metal on metal - not good -machining or replacement of rotors might be needed. Better safe than sorry
 

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I was told that I should replace my front struts (2007 Caliber 2.4 R/T AWD, 48,000 miles). (One reason I was told that was that I took the car to a brake shop and asked a guy to check out some loud clunking sounds that I heard up front when I hit bumps or potholes.) Eventually, the guy said I had leaking front struts and ought to replace them.

Today, when I was replacing my front brake pads, I inspected my "leaking" front struts. Funny thing, I saw no sign of leaking. Could the struts be completely dry, so that they have nothing left to leak? Or should I look for some other cause of my occasionally very loud clunking sounds?

More to that, the guy said nothing about replacing leaking rear struts, I also think I hear occasional loud clunking sounds coming from the rear wheel wells, and I see no leaking struts in the rear wheel wells.

Any ideas about this? I don't want to try to fix something that isn't broken, not fix something that is broken.
 

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Now I see two seemingly contradictory things: KYB sells OE replacement struts that are gas struts (nitrogen) while my OE struts are said to be (visibly) leaking. I did find visible evidence of a fluid leak on the left front strut but no visible evidence of a fluid leak on the right front strut. I thought the OE struts were hydraulic (otherwise, how could they show visible signs of leaking?) Or, are Caliber struts gas struts after all?

(OK, I see struts have fluids and are also gas charged.)

Does any manufacturer/distributor make/sell the "Strut - Plus" assembly for a Caliber? I'm not sure. Is it a problem that Caliber springs wear out, or is the Strut - Plus assembly sold mainly to avoid messing around with spring compressors?
 

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All "standard" struts and shocks are air over oil hydraulic units. Too much detail to explain here. But there is both oil and gas in most struts.
Nitrogen is used mainly because it is a commonly available and almost inert (won't react with anything) gas.

As of now - no "strut plus" available for the Caliber. Usually sold to make suspension replacement safe and simple.
 

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The shop should give you an itemized estimate if they are reputable and really want the business.

Front struts - KYB's are about $80-$90 each in the lower 48.
DIY struts require a warm spring day and a spring compressor - several YouTube vids show the basic process. You should also download the service manual if you don't have one.
Also, you will need a wheel alignment ASAP after changing struts.

Brake pads - new ones won't hurt, relatively easy DIY. YouTube vids and manual will guide you through this.
Metal on metal - not good -machining or replacement of rotors might be needed. Better safe than sorry
:wavey: Hi there, first timer here! is there any way you could post those YouTube Links on how to do this? i would gladly appreciate it.

Thank you :Racing:
 

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Don't have any specific links, just go to you tube and search for strut replacement - there are tons of videos out there.
 

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Yes - very similar for all front MacPherson struts.

One word of caution - a massive amount of deadly energy is stored in the springs!
You must carefully use a proper spring compressor to hold this energy back during the disassembly and reassembly processes - NO MAKESHIFT DEVICES WILL DO!
 

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Yes - very similar for all front MacPherson struts.

One word of caution - a massive amount of deadly energy is stored in the springs!
You must carefully use a proper spring compressor to hold this energy back during the disassembly and reassembly processes - NO MAKESHIFT DEVICES WILL DO!
Sorry for all the questions but I want get started in the right way. So what would be a reliable compressor and where could I find it?
 
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