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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Anyone who can help it would be appreciated.

I recently replaced my electronic throttle body because I was getting the red lightning bolt. I had the relearn set through a scanner as well as using the 10 second rule on the accelerator.

This is the 2nd electronic throttle body I have replaced over the last year, thinking the other one may have been defective. However, after idling for about 4 or 5 minutes it pops on again and I have to turn the ignition off for a bit to reset it so the engine will run properly again.

After resetting one or 2 times by turning off the ignition the car will run fine for the rest of the day rarely if ever having the red lightning bolt come back on.

But, every morning the red lightning bolt comes back on while the car is warming up.

Does anyone know what else may be causing the red lightning bolt to come on everyday?

Thanks,
 

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Hi,

Anyone who can help it would be appreciated.

I recently replaced my electronic throttle body because I was getting the red lightning bolt. I had the relearn set through a scanner as well as using the 10 second rule on the accelerator.

This is the 2nd electronic throttle body I have replaced over the last year, thinking the other one may have been defective. However, after idling for about 4 or 5 minutes it pops on again and I have to turn the ignition off for a bit to reset it so the engine will run properly again.

After resetting one or 2 times by turning off the ignition the car will run fine for the rest of the day rarely if ever having the red lightning bolt come back on.

But, every morning the red lightning bolt comes back on while the car is warming up.

Does anyone know what else may be causing the red lightning bolt to come on everyday?

Thanks,
Intake manifold runners could be a problem also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi,

Thanks for responding. My concern is that after warming up the engine will run great. The red lightning bolt light will stay on until I turn the engine off. Once I start back up the car runs great no red lightning bolt or check engine light. Does this still sound like something the intake manifold runner control valve could trigger? Also when and if I get a scan code it's "P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected ". Which everyone says is throttle body???
I also replaced the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor just in case. Still getting the issue.

Thanks,
 

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Hi,

Thanks for responding. My concern is that after warming up the engine will run great. The red lightning bolt light will stay on until I turn the engine off. Once I start back up the car runs great no red lightning bolt or check engine light. Does this still sound like something the intake manifold runner control valve could trigger? Also when and if I get a scan code it's "P0507: Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected ". Which everyone says is throttle body???
I also replaced the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor just in case. Still getting the issue.

Thanks,
There are a lot of potential causes to P0507. While the code specifically mentions the “Idle Air Control System”, it would be a mistake to just go ahead and replace it without a little due diligence. The Idle Air Control Valve is often not the cause of the code.
Here are some of the most common causes of P0507 in the Dodge Caliber, as well as ways to troubleshoot them. Keep in mind that there are differences in model years. It would be a good idea to start by looking for a vacuum leak and move forward from there.
A leaking vacuum system will often cause the Caliber to idle higher. When the vacuum system leaks, it allows extra air to enter into the combustion chamber. This air allows for a slightly higher combustion, increases the RPM and throws the code.
A vacuum leak can come from bad vacuum hose, the intake manifold, EGR System, or about anywhere else that air flows through. It’s not hard to find a vacuum leak though.
Most modern fuel injected engines are equipped with an idle air control valve. Not all of them are though. If you have determined that you don’t have a vacuum leak, the IAC is a great second place to troubleshoot P0507.
A throttle body opens and closes millions of times in the life of a vehicle. All of the air that passes through it can slowly cause it to collect grime. This grime can change the idle characteristics of the vehicle. When dirty, you’ll often feel the vehicle almost stall before the computer compensates and opens it a little more.
if the throttle body has been damaged, it may not be properly regulating air flow, and the code may be thrown.
 

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There are a lot of potential causes to P0507. While the code specifically mentions the “Idle Air Control System”, it would be a mistake to just go ahead and replace it without a little due diligence. The Idle Air Control Valve is often not the cause of the code.
Here are some of the most common causes of P0507 in the Dodge Caliber, as well as ways to troubleshoot them. Keep in mind that there are differences in model years. It would be a good idea to start by looking for a vacuum leak and move forward from there.
A leaking vacuum system will often cause the Caliber to idle higher. When the vacuum system leaks, it allows extra air to enter into the combustion chamber. This air allows for a slightly higher combustion, increases the RPM and throws the code.
A vacuum leak can come from bad vacuum hose, the intake manifold, EGR System, or about anywhere else that air flows through. It’s not hard to find a vacuum leak though.
Most modern fuel injected engines are equipped with an idle air control valve. Not all of them are though. If you have determined that you don’t have a vacuum leak, the IAC is a great second place to troubleshoot P0507.
A throttle body opens and closes millions of times in the life of a vehicle. All of the air that passes through it can slowly cause it to collect grime. This grime can change the idle characteristics of the vehicle. When dirty, you’ll often feel the vehicle almost stall before the computer compensates and opens it a little more.
if the throttle body has been damaged, it may not be properly regulating air flow, and the code may be thrown.
I changed my throttle body are they plug and play or do they need coding in my revs still drop to below 500rpm sometimes
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi,
And first let me start by thanking those trying to assist.
So I went out and bought some starting fluid to test for any vacuum leaks. I notice when I spray the outside cylinders the engine begins to stumble. ( I uploaded a video of this here:
)
Also I am still getting the P0507 and now getting P2173. I have gotten that before as well. Turns out this engine does not have a idle air control valve.
This engine is 2.0L L4 DOHC 16V.
So far it continues to throw the red lightning bolt after about 5 minutes at idle. Once I turn off the engine for 30 seconds and start back up it will run fine????
 

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Your test puts suspicion on a few possible issues:

1. Bad fuel injector o-rings. These are cheap, and you can easily replace the rings for all four injectors in an hour. If you are going to do this, consider just replacing all four injectors themselves (the new injectors will come with new rings). Go with new Dodge parts, don't get off brand rings or rebuilt injectors

2. Intake manifold is loose and/or intake manifold gaskets are bad. If the intake manifold has never been off, this is not terribly likely, but it is possible. New gaskets are also not much money. If you do this, make sure you use a torque wrench to properly tighten all the bolts. I would consider just tightening down the existing bolts without replacing the gasket as a first step (easily done in 30m). Again, using a torque wrench to get the bolts to the proper spec.

3. Cracked intake manifold. This is not likely if the intake has never been removed and the car has never been in an accident.

To narrow down the possibilities, try spraying the starter fluid directly onto the base of one of the injectors (don't use much pressure), and then try spraying right along the point where the intake manifold meets the cylinder head.

The problem could be caused by any and or all of the above, so get the spray can back out and do some precise work to narrow down exactly where the leaks are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
UPDATE: John your bad fuel injector o-rings turned out to be the problem. I ended up replacing all 4 but I did use the rebuilt ones for cost and that solved the issue. I didn't want to reply to soon just in case the issue came back.
The car has been humming along like new after the replacement.
hanks to everyone for their input and help.
You guys rock!!!!:):):)
 
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