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I'm thinking the dealerships don't pay any mind to things that are under warranty. As when I bought my 2007 back in late October or early November of 2007. I bought it because of the cabin head height as both my boys were taller than me and for a family car as well. I still have it, one of the main reasons I also went with it was because of the lifetime warranty it had at the time on certain parts as with the drive train and what have you. But the bailout ended that from what I was told at a couple dealerships - I think it's dirty as I had always had it inspected every 4 or 5 years as it stated for the lifetime warranty. They've had it for other work but never mentioned anything about the crossbar starting to rust that the engine sets on. It cost me a good $960. Which I wasn't even aware of the extended warranty until after I had what sounded like suspension problems again after just having almost the entire suspension system replaced! By then it was after the extended warranty. Which I'm thinking I probably should have wrote Chrysler about it and the Attorney General with all the times I've had suspension work done. That same crossbar has been used in how many vehicles and still being used yet they know it rusts easy! The shop that put mine in also spray painted with an under coating and told me to have it inspected every year or two and they'd spray more under coat paint on it so it won't rust out again.

However, now with all these bad roads and many of the RR Crossings being rough and I don't even drive the speed limit unless they are smooth roads. The RR Crossings I slow down if I'm not sure how rough they are as if I know I will slow down almost to a stop and take them as a speed bump trying to make my car last longer for me as I can't afford monthly car payments now. Let allow major car repairs, but I'm going to have the shop check things out and give be me a written estimate with any parts needing replaced and I'm going to send it to CSX RR since they lack on keeping there RR Crossings in good shape. Amtrak does such a good job at maintaining their RR Crossings.
 

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The subframe in the Caliber that you're talking about is unique to the Caliber, not used across their entire product line. Chrysler eventually offered a 10 year extended warranty on BOTH subframes for ALL Caliber owners after initially only offering it to owners of early model cars and you should have received a letter from them informing you of this. Once the warranty went into effect you could have contacted Chrysler and they would have paid you back what it cost you to have the subframe replaced.

FWIW I spray mine down with Fluid Film twice a year to try and prolong its life, but after 9 years of upstate NY winters rust is forming in several areas of the car. Nature of the beast for us (and probably you too)...cars just don't last up north.
 

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The subframe in the Caliber that you're talking about is unique to the Caliber, not used across their entire product line. Chrysler eventually offered a 10 year extended warranty on BOTH subframes for ALL Caliber owners after initially only offering it to owners of early model cars and you should have received a letter from them informing you of this. Once the warranty went into effect you could have contacted Chrysler and they would have paid you back what it cost you to have the subframe replaced.

FWIW I spray mine down with Fluid Film twice a year to try and prolong its life, but after 9 years of upstate NY winters rust is forming in several areas of the car. Nature of the beast for us (and probably you too)...cars just don't last up north.
It's actually the same in the Patriot and the compass. Both Heeps that they have sold tons of.
 

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It's actually the same in the Patriot and the compass. Both Heeps that they have sold tons of.
x2.

When I had mine replaced at a my mechanic's place, he said they do lots of these, and actually had a Compass in the next bay having the same thing done.
 

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My 09 SXT they replaced the cross member under warranty at 188k miles. I was 3 weeks beyond the eligibility date but they covered it all the same. Said the rear was ok. I need to change the control arms again already. It seems even moog are junk these days. Car now has 193k on it ?
 

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The Moog "Problem Solver" ball joints are a good option...they have grease fittings on them so you can keep them properly lubricated. The first replacement Moog control arms I had lasted about a year before failing...my mechanic replaced the ball joints with the Problem Solvers and after 3 years or so, they're still solid. I just pump in some grease when I change the engine oil.
 

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I've got 3+ years on plain non-greasable moog lca/ball joints with no issues. On a cost/effort basis I think id just replace the whole control arm assembly again if needed. You need to remove the control arm anyway and then not a small job to press out the ball joints.

I should say my car sees pretty easy usage. For more harsh driving the math might work out different.

Too bad moog no longer sells the control arm with the greasable ball joints already installed.
 

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Just found out that my subframe is cracked due to rusting through. Was told by local dealership and Chrysler customer care that i am 24 days past the extended warranty and there is nothing they can do. 2010 Dodge Caliber with 111,000 miles.
 

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You could have joined the owners community and read that you have a 10 year warranty, then arranged an inspection before expiry.
 

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Just found out that my subframe is cracked due to rusting through. Was told by local dealership and Chrysler customer care that i am 24 days past the extended warranty and there is nothing they can do. 2010 Dodge Caliber with 111,000 miles.
You can ask the dealer how to appeal the warranty coverage directly with Dodge. Ask to get a copy of the denial in writing and for the appeal procedure.

You are not likely to prevail, but you can try.

Meantime, get the car fixed at an independent shop and save a bunch of money.
 

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You can ask the dealer how to appeal the warranty coverage directly with Dodge. Ask to get a copy of the denial in writing and for the appeal procedure.

You are not likely to prevail, but you can try.

Meantime, get the car fixed at an independent shop and save a bunch of money.
is this a problem everywhere, or mainly in parts of the country that use a lot of salt on the roads? I am in Oregon where there is no need to salt roads
 

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Slide under the car and take a look...I would imagine that it won't be nearly as bad as those of us who live in the Salt Belt but there could be more rust than normal.
 
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