[Tevlin]

Hello,

I have a 2008 Dodge Caliber with 170K on it. We have replaced the front and rear struts, front control arms, rear upper and lower control arms, and rear toe links. The rear camber is way off. The tires are tipped inward and are wearing thin. I understand that the rear is non adjustable for camber, however I am at my wits end having replaced all of these components (that did have bad bushings) and still having it be off.

So I am looking for suggestions as to what I may be missing or what else I can do. I am aware that they sell an aftermarket rear upper control arm that is adjustable, however they are a bit spendy, so I want to exhaust my resources first before I turn to them.

Also if anyone has used the adjustable's I would be interested to hear your experience with them, if they fixed the problem.

 

[Tevlin]

Also my front is off but the alignment shop won't touch it until my rear is in specs.

 

[Prop1]

You may want to use a pry bar and check to see if there is play due to worn wheel bearings. Another member found that to be the cause of his camber being off.

Here's a link to a post about the adjustable upper CAs: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showpost.php?p=214985&postcount=3

 

[Tevlin]

Thanks! We'll look into that.

 

[Excaliber07]

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en1/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213010_K100114_Eng.pdf

 

[Flyinghigh]

Nice find, Glenn! I'm sure a lot of Caliber owners will appreciate that one.

 

[Excaliber07]

Nice find, Glenn! I'm sure a lot of Caliber owners will appreciate that one.

Thanks Charlie!! It's more than likely the route I'll be going in the future. I know my rear alignment is off a tad, so if I have to replace anything, might as well be adjustable and a better quality.

 

[Tevlin]

So the rear wheel bearing hub assembly did not fix the alignment. Getting pretty tired of dumping money into this rear end! Everything has been replaced now. Dreading the thought of having to do the adjustables and having it not work for some stupid reason, has any one else had trouble with their rear camber?

 

[Prop1]

So the rear wheel bearing hub assembly did not fix the alignment. Getting pretty tired of dumping money into this rear end! Everything has been replaced now. Dreading the thought of having to do the adjustables and having it not work for some stupid reason, has any one else had trouble with their rear camber?

I think that was answered with my post about the bearings. Others have complained. I suspect that's why the adjustables were developed.

 

[The Mechanic Michael]

So the rear wheel bearing hub assembly did not fix the alignment. Getting pretty tired of dumping money into this rear end! Everything has been replaced now. Dreading the thought of having to do the adjustables and having it not work for some stupid reason, has any one else had trouble with their rear camber?

On my 07 Caliber I had a rusted out rear sub frame I replace it with a new one myself and Everything In the rear with new parts.It's still out of alignment If I knew what and were to start adjusting the Camber I'm sure I could come close to specs just need someone to point me where to make the adjustments on the Caliber.

 

[672aq]

The bolt to the “toe compensator link” is adjustable, to a point.

Loosen the nut, twist the bolt side as desired (90° increments), see if that fixes it.

 

[The Mechanic Michael]

View attachment 16910
The bolt to the “toe compensator link” is adjustable, to a point.

Loosen the nut, twist the bolt side as desired (90° increments), see if that fixes it.

Thanks best advice/help I've got on this I'm going to try It soon.I almost got rip off by a company call Mr.Tires i don't know if this company is ALL over the United States.Anyway after i install the new rear sub frame the on car.The car wasn't driving straight from the rear knowing i should have bought Everything new not just the sub frame, I had a bad feeling about those rear links they look Really Bad. So when i took the car in for new rear tires the guy from Mr.Tires only show me one bad thing i was missing a strut bolt and they mention shims,which i told them no shims came with the rear sub frame so they wouldn't do the wheel alignment.So i had to go the the Chrysler dealership to buy some bolts,Their mechanic told me the Caliber don't need shims to do a rear alignment you just adjust the camber on these cars.I know the links where SHOT i ordered new ones and put them on but i didn't go back to Mr.Tire because if they over look the links to me it would have been a Shitty alignment job.I took the car to NTB they told me the links was bad which i told them i already knew that i have them on order and i will install them and bring the car back.Now i take the car back to NTB and now they find i need the upper control arms&tie rod end& ball joint all on the passenger side.I said **** it I'm doing both sides so when i do come back you won't give me no **** about something else. In one week i made 3 trips to NTB trying get this alignment done and each time i get story on what needs to be done,as of the post 3/7/2021 i have yet to return because on my own i found bad rear trailing arm bushing that I'm going to replace and then I'II go back.So for 4 new tires& wheel alignment NTB quote me$520 is that a fair price.?

 

[John Galt]

...The rear camber is way off. The tires are tipped inward and are wearing thin.

Assuming that you have stock rims and stock sized tires and that your car has not ever been in an accident...

If your rear subframe was replaced, that is certainly a point of suspicion. I would look at online parts diagrams and the factory service manual on replacing the rear subframe to compare with your existing install to see if there are missing, damaged, loose or otherwise incorrectly installed parts.

Does the subframe itself look new?

Your car is worth maybe $2000 (if your problem was fixed). I would not spend much more money to fix the problem

 

[The Mechanic Michael]

Assuming that you have stock rims and stock sized tires and that your car has not ever been in an accident...

If your rear subframe was replaced, that is certainly a point of suspicion. I would look at online parts diagrams and the factory service manual on replacing the rear subframe to compare with your existing install to see if there are missing, damaged, loose or otherwise incorrectly installed parts.

Does the subframe itself look new?

Your car is worth maybe $2000 (if your problem was fixed). I would not spend much more money to fix the problem

I replace my rear subframe because it was rusting out all over with a brand new one and the upper control arms bushings was bad so those was also replace and the toe links was ALL replace by me.