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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bah!
Replacing that part did not fix the issue; the code's back.

Next in line will be this pain behind the eyes:


The original feels sticky at open and closed. I'm not sure what it's supposed to feel like, and am not 100% sure how far the baffles actually move.

Last time I looked at this in the junkyard, it seemed the same as mine, but another $2 to get in and tear some apart should clue me in.

This will be another something I'll buy "new." Amazon for $156 + free shipping.
 

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Bah!
Replacing that part did not fix the issue; the code's back.

Next in line will be this pain behind the eyes:


The original feels sticky at open and closed. I'm not sure what it's supposed to feel like, and am not 100% sure how far the baffles actually move.

Last time I looked at this in the junkyard, it seemed the same as mine, but another $2 to get in and tear some apart should clue me in.

This will be another something I'll buy "new." Amazon for $156 + free shipping.
Try carparts.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Before I dive into replacing more things ..

Automotive tire Electrical wiring Audio equipment Cable Gadget



Maybe I should have things plugged in?


Automotive lighting Automotive tire Electrical wiring Audio equipment Motor vehicle



The computer won't let me clear the codes, so tomorrow's drives should fix things. 💯
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Weird it would not let you clear tho.
My problem - just because I plugged it in, doesn't mean it's plugged in securely.

Removed the battery, air box, intake hose, pushed the plug in hard, and while holding it there push forward the red locking clip. Now it's secure.

Cleared the P2017 code and the CEL is gone. Hopefully this fixes it because after looking at that manifold, I really don't want to deal with trying to remove it, lol.
 
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