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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, everyone. My daughter's 2011 Heat recently began acting up on a drive home, so she brought it to me to take a look. Based on what she was describing, it sounded like a misfire, and my scan confirmed it was a P0304.

I cleared all codes and replaced all spark plugs, the code returned.
I swapped the ignition coils for #1 and #4, the code returned.
I swapped the fuel injectors for #1 and #4, the code returned.

I'm about at the limit of what I can troubleshoot (due to lack of tools and/or knowledge), but before I take it in to the dealer, I was wondering if there was anything else I could check on my own.

I've read that a vacuum leak could be an issue, but I'm wondering how that would only cause 1 cylinder to misfire, and not all of them. I'm also not too sure how to look for this.

I'm unable to check compression, but I'm curious how difficult it is to replace the rings (I'm a confident mechanic, just haven't had to do that before).

I've read that fuel mixture could be an issue, but wouldn't that cause more than one cylinder to misfire, and throw other codes related to O2 sensors?

Similarly, if it was a bad batch of fuel, wouldn't that also cause more than one cylinder to misfire and throw other codes?

This is the scanner tool that I have:


I appreciate any help on this one. Thank you.
 

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Could be an issue with the wiring going to #4 cylinder...check for chafed or corroded wiring. Could also be a leak in the intake manifold gasket near #4 cylinder...try spraying some brake cleaner in that area while the car is running to see if the sound of the engine changes
 

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Hello, everyone. My daughter's 2011 Heat recently began acting up on a drive home, so she brought it to me to take a look. Based on what she was describing, it sounded like a misfire, and my scan confirmed it was a P0304.

I cleared all codes and replaced all spark plugs, the code returned.
I swapped the ignition coils for #1 and #4, the code returned.
I swapped the fuel injectors for #1 and #4, the code returned.

I'm about at the limit of what I can troubleshoot (due to lack of tools and/or knowledge), but before I take it in to the dealer, I was wondering if there was anything else I could check on my own.

I've read that a vacuum leak could be an issue, but I'm wondering how that would only cause 1 cylinder to misfire, and not all of them. I'm also not too sure how to look for this.

I'm unable to check compression, but I'm curious how difficult it is to replace the rings (I'm a confident mechanic, just haven't had to do that before).

I've read that fuel mixture could be an issue, but wouldn't that cause more than one cylinder to misfire, and throw other codes related to O2 sensors?

Similarly, if it was a bad batch of fuel, wouldn't that also cause more than one cylinder to misfire and throw other codes?

This is the scanner tool that I have:


I appreciate any help on this one. Thank you.
I'II share with you all the Information I had time to look up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the input. All of the wiring that I could inspect visually for both the #4 injector and ignition coil appeared to be in good shape. All I had was some carb cleaner handy, but no noticeable change when spraying around the area.

I did notice the car seems to be shaking (I attribute to the misfire), and I can hear what sounds like some chattering/knocking coming from the area around/between the injectors/coils.

Could be an issue with the wiring going to #4 cylinder...check for chafed or corroded wiring. Could also be a leak in the intake manifold gasket near #4 cylinder...try spraying some break cleaner in that area while the car is running to see if the sound of the engine changes
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I look forward to anything you can offer. If I can't figure it out, I'll need to take it in and hope they can figure it out. Once I know definitively what is causing the issue, I'll know if it is something I can handle or not.

I'II share with you all the Information I had time to look up.
 

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Hello, everyone. My daughter's 2011 Heat recently began acting up on a drive home, so she brought it to me to take a look. Based on what she was describing, it sounded like a misfire, and my scan confirmed it was a P0304.

I cleared all codes and replaced all spark plugs, the code returned.
I swapped the ignition coils for #1 and #4, the code returned.
I swapped the fuel injectors for #1 and #4, the code returned.

I'm about at the limit of what I can troubleshoot (due to lack of tools and/or knowledge), but before I take it in to the dealer, I was wondering if there was anything else I could check on my own.

I've read that a vacuum leak could be an issue, but I'm wondering how that would only cause 1 cylinder to misfire, and not all of them. I'm also not too sure how to look for this.

I'm unable to check compression, but I'm curious how difficult it is to replace the rings (I'm a confident mechanic, just haven't had to do that before).

I've read that fuel mixture could be an issue, but wouldn't that cause more than one cylinder to misfire, and throw other codes related to O2 sensors?

Similarly, if it was a bad batch of fuel, wouldn't that also cause more than one cylinder to misfire and throw other codes?

This is the scanner tool that I have:


I appreciate any help on this one. Thank you.
I had a Chrysler Town &Country that had a misfire and it was the camshaft that was bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My local mechanic confirms that I'm only getting 10 psi in Cylinder #4 and reports that the only real fix is a new/rebuilt engine. I asked about the possibility of sleeving the bore or replacing piston rings and he strongly recommended against it, saying that it would be a band aid only and would certainly fail within 30 days. Before I give my daughter the bad news, is there anything I might be able to do? Is it worth running some Sea Foam and/or Engine Restore in the oil to see if it will work itself out? Thanks in advance.
 

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The question is why are you only getting 10 psi...is it an issue with the piston rings being bad, a bent valve or bad valve seat/guide, etc. The mechanic could do a leakdown test to find out....using the spark plug hole to feed compressed air into the cylinder. If the air leaks out of the exhaust or the throttle body then it's a valve issue, if it leaks out of the oil filler hole then it's a piston ring issue. Sea Foam might work if it's a stuck piston ring but it won't help if you have a bad valve/guide/seat or a bad cylinder head gasket.

Honestly these Chrysler World Engines are a dime a dozen...used in the Caliber/Patriot/Compass/Avenger, etc. You could probably source a replacement from a salvage yard for not too much money if you were so inclined.
 

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...I'm only getting 10 psi in Cylinder #4 and reports that the only real fix is a new/rebuilt engine. I asked about the possibility of sleeving the bore or replacing piston rings and he strongly recommended against it, saying that it would be a band aid only and would certainly fail within 30 days.
With a cylinder at 10psi, there is no quick/cheap fix. 'Engine restore' products might make the problem slightly better for a few hundred miles, but then the problem would be back.

Without doing all the work yourself, the cheapest possible solutions to a 10PSI cylinder will run well over $1,000, and could end up costing two or three thousand. Depending on what is broken and what else they find when they tear it apart.

Even if you do all the work yourself, it could still run over $1,000.

It is not worth spending thousands to fix these cars. The are many failure points on these cars that will bleed you dry, especially the CVT...when it goes (not if) the car will be worthless.

These cars frequently sell for just a few thousand even when they are in good condition, it would make no sense to spend thousands to fix it.


If the car is drivable, then just keep driving it until it dies.

If it is not drivable then it is time to junk it and buy a cheap used Toyota or Honda.
 
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