Dodge Caliber Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone.
I am a caliber 2.0 crd sxt owner from Norway.

This is my problem, hoping for some pointers on what could be wrong.

I just replaced headlight bulb to Led (with a resistor cable) and looked over the relay box under the left headlight. One wire had come loose on a relay, fixed it with new shoe. Looked over the rest of the wires on the relay box seems ok. Replaced the air filter and put on the summer tires.
Reassembled the car and started it.
-The car started right away, ran for 10-15 sec. and stopped!
-Trided to start it again but it dos not react at all. The light on tha dash comes on but does not try to star. Confused...
-I then check all the fuses in the TIPM and check fuse and relay in the relay box under the left headlight. Can't find anything wrong.
-Then i want to scan for fault codes on the OBD2 port and find that theOBD2 port was no power.
-I then try the key remote witch is not working either. Nothing happens when i push lock or unlock.

I have tried this:
-looked over the fuses in TIPM and relay box (is there more fuses somewhere)
-replaced battery on my key
-disconected battery and held the pluss and minus together for over an hour.

Any idea what could be wrong and/or where the fault most likely is.

This is my daily driver and i have newer had this problem before and the car ran fine before i did these small things to it.

Any help mutch appreciated!
Thanks!

Foto of my relay box top right relay had loose cable and reconnected and replaced relay.
16687
16688
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Did you figure out what the problem was? I’m have the same exact problems ? HELPPP

Hi everyone.
I am a caliber 2.0 crd sxt owner from Norway.

This is my problem, hoping for some pointers on what could be wrong.

I just replaced headlight bulb to Led (with a resistor cable) and looked over the relay box under the left headlight. One wire had come loose on a relay, fixed it with new shoe. Looked over the rest of the wires on the relay box seems ok. Replaced the air filter and put on the summer tires.
Reassembled the car and started it.
-The car started right away, ran for 10-15 sec. and stopped!
-Trided to start it again but it dos not react at all. The light on tha dash comes on but does not try to star. Confused...
-I then check all the fuses in the TIPM and check fuse and relay in the relay box under the left headlight. Can't find anything wrong.
-Then i want to scan for fault codes on the OBD2 port and find that theOBD2 port was no power.
-I then try the key remote witch is not working either. Nothing happens when i push lock or unlock.

I have tried this:
-looked over the fuses in TIPM and relay box (is there more fuses somewhere)
-replaced battery on my key
-disconected battery and held the pluss and minus together for over an hour.

Any idea what could be wrong and/or where the fault most likely is.

This is my daily driver and i have newer had this problem before and the car ran fine before i did these small things to it.

Any help mutch appreciated!
Thanks!

Foto of my relay box top right relay had loose cable and reconnected and replaced relay.
View attachment 16687 View attachment 16688
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Remove the LED bulbs and put the halogens back in. Then disconnect both battery cables and tie them together for 15 minutes or so to ensure a complete de-powering of all electronics in the car. Reconnect the battery, then see what happens.

The TIPM is sensitive to any kind of electrical modifications and will do all sorts of funky things when it sees an anomaly like the headlight bulbs drawing more or less current than they should. Assuming you didn't fry the TIPM and the LED bulbs are the culprit, the power reset should get you up and running again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for your input. I will try this tomorrow (almost midnight in Norway now). Think i have tried someting similar already. The LEDs was taken out yesterday but i did not replace them. Also took out the TIPM today to look for obvious faults. It looks fine but can of course still be broken.
I will test your way as soon as i can to be sure its done right. Also tried to start the car by turning the key with the minus cable off and then connecting it while trying to start. No result.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
07 caliber sxt
Well my problem is after the person that I bought it from paid it off they tried to remove or bypassing the pass-time gps tracker (that the used dealership installed) During them trying to bypass it they messed something up and believe that’s why it won’t start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Today i got my Caliber started again!
Actually found out by pulling out and looking on each fuse against the light, the one for ABS/J1962/PCM (no.33) was blown....
It ran for about 5-10min this time and stopped again. Same fuse blown!

And i switched back to my normal glow headlight bulbs before trying to start the car again. Had a good look at the tipm and cleaned and checked all contacts before installing it again. And did the reset tipm thing before trying to start.
All relays seems fine and the wiring on the relay box.

Any idea what componet/issue this could be anyone?
Most likely problem it can be at least??
Since it starts after replacing fuse 33 and runs for minutes or seconds i seems?

So my tip to everyone that hav no turnaround and no power on ODB2 plug. Check fuse 33!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
You've got a short in that line.

My suggestion is pull the battery and drivers side headlight. Check for broken and or chafed wiring behind the headlight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your suggestions.
Before i tried to start this time i had taken out both headlights and the tipm. And i was looking really close on all the wiring i could see to make sure all is fine before putting everything back. I did not take out the battery tho...
I also tested one more thing i forgot earlier.
My keyless entry still dont work.
But the car now starts and the odb2 port has power until the fuse blows again.

I will look for some broken wires again then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
Look behind the wire loom where it passes from behind the battery, headlight and where it runs along the inner fender toward the cab. This is where mine was chafed through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, will do.
Do you have any idea if its likely to be a problem with the pcm or the abs control module/pump witch also have a bunch of electronic. And why isn't the key remote working even after the fuse is replaced.
Just brainstorming...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Something has to be causing the fuse to blow...the fact that it apparently doesn't immediately blow when you start the car suggests it may not actually be a short to ground but a bad component on the circuit protected by fuse #33. First thing is to verify you have the correct amperage fuse in the #33 position...we often overlook the simplest answers. :)

If that's not it, then the best way to troubleshoot this is to use an amp clamp to measure the amount of current being drawn by the circuit. If it's immediately more than the fuse's rating then yeah, it's almost certainly a short. But if the initial current draw is "reasonable" but at some point it rises above the fuse's rating, then one of the devices on that circuit could be faulty...maybe something like an internal short. Identify the components on that circuit and check the wiring going to each for a fault. If you don't see anything you could try unplugging them one at a time and see if the current remains at a normal level.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks. Im also thinking when the car can run from 10sek to several minutes standing still it may not be a direct wire short... im still looking for a short in the wires now.
The fuse is for ABS module/j1962 con.(odb2)/pcm

I got my hands on a new pcm/ecu with same part number as the original.
What's the cheapest tool i can buy to write new vin to used pcm?
I also want a more advanced tool for the future. Considering a witech micropod 2...
But no idea if i does what i need.
Also replacing the ABS module need a tool to register it to my car i guess?

By the way. My keys remote entry NOW works! It was a bad battery in the key.....

So the problem is now:
BLOWN FUSE no.30 AFTER STARTING THE CAR (RUNS FOR FEW SEC. TO FEW MINUTES).

Thanks again to all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
I don't know for sure with FCA products what's necessary to replace a PCM. I do know with some manufacturers that you need to have an online account with their technical services to do this, and that's something you have to pay for. I seem to recall that it's possible to buy like a 3-day account from some manufacturers but obviously you need to have a scantool advanced enough to do this work.

Check out the South Main Auto channel on YouTube...it's a mechanic here in New York state that I follow who's exceptionally good. He's done several videos on replacing/reprogramming PCMs and ECMs and perhaps you can learn what you need to know there.

I'm pretty certain the ABS module needs to be programmed as well and while I'm not a mechanic I do know that ABS modules are crazy expensive and a challenge to replace for a number of reasons. I also know that when an ABS module fails the car will default over to standard non-ABS brakes and if your car has stability control you'll lose that as well, so the car can still potentially be driven daily without it. If the ABS module is on the circuit where the fuse is blowing, my thought would be to absolutely make sure the ABS module is faulty before replacing it. I should think you could use an amp clamp to monitor its power draw or a scantool with bidirectional controls that allows you to test/activate the module to see if doing so causes the fuse to blow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
FINALLY GOT MY CAR RUNNING AGAIN.

-Yeah, the las thing i wanted was to replace the ABS module. Hard to reach lots of hydraulic hoses and likely needs programming.

I have gone over almost all i could reach, disconnected all wires i could find and cleaned them. Opened up the wire protector/collector next to and under the battey. Nothing wrong...

I found out i could activate and test functions with my scan tool (foxwell nt510)
First test Fan Low speed. AND THE FUSE BLOWS! Took out the relay nearest to the tire, replaced the fuse again and started the car. Car runs fine and the fus dont blow. Stopped the car my self after 1h30min.

Looking closer at the relay box wiring...
TOW WIRES ON THE RELAY nearest the tire
WAS MISPLACED (the thin red and the thick red). Switched tem around and everything seams fine. I dont understand how i could have done this but I'm suspecting i misplaced one of the a long time ago and the other was loos. And i found the other loose one this time at put that one in the wrong open spot...

Still very strange that the car could run from 10sec all the way up to 45min before the car stopps. Dont know what this relay is controlling on the caliber diesel.

The ralays are all connected together from one to the next on the same pin with the thin red on with a stripe. So i guess thats why the fuse can blow ewen if its not directly controlling the fan.

Anyway! Again the tips is CHECK THE WIRES AND RELAYS UNDER THE LEFT HEADLIGT!
I was always suspecting something wrong there. But i can't find a wire diagram (witch i dont really understand either...) or a drawing or picture of how its supposed to be wired.
Fond some for petrol but not for the diesel.
I Have 4 realys and
3 maxi fuses 50A-25A-50A.
Dont know exactly what any of them control?

If anyone have a description of what is controlling what on the caliber 2.0crd sxt please explain/draw.
16693


THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR HELPING!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
In my Caliber that box only has 3 or or 4 relays in it...no maxi-fuses, but what's in your box depends a lot on the year of your car and what engine you have. I believe in mine 2 or 3 relays control the cooling fan and one is for the fuel pump. Corrosion of pins in the corner socket of that box with a resulting relay failure is a common problem.

Glad you found the culprit!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Yes. Im sure one or two is for coling fan. And i guess one for the diesel pump then. And im suspecting one can be related to the AC.
Also the 25A fuse may be for the AC. THE 25a fuse blows few seconds after i start the car everything and has done for years. And the AC dosent seam to work... bu no idea witch is witch? Really hard to follow the cables since the ha similar colors and are well hidden.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
I was curious so I looked up the specs for this relay/fuse box.

For diesel engines only, the 50A fuse is for your glow plug. The two 25A fuses are for the two cabin heater relays. Gas/petrol cars don't have any of these fuses.

Referencing your picture above, the three relays on the right are for the radiator cooling fan.

The left middle relay is the main relay that powers either the engine control module (for diesels) or the powertrain control module (for gas/petrol engines). For gas engines this relay also is responsible for providing power to the ignition coils and fuel injectors.


The top left socket is a spare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
THANKS ALLOT!:)
I may hav the wrong fuses in but i have two 50A fuses and one 25A fuse. Are you able to say what fuse is for what? And cabin heater is doing what? There is heat in the cabin and the glow plug is working. But the middle fuse is always blowing.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top