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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all. Hope everyone here is finding solutions to their Caliber woes...I can totally relate to the stress they create. With that being said...I'm new to the forum as the title of this thread indicates... and can hopefully help someone as I hope to be helped.

So here's my Caliber experience. My wife bought a used 2008 SE model sometime around 2010...don't remember how many miles...but somehow this car has made it to over 333,000 at the time of this posting...with no serious electrical madness whatsoever that could not be fixed pretty easy.

It's had various other issues during this time however such as struts, brakes, tires, wipers, battery, plugs...yada yada yada...all the usual stuff that wears out. Still has same starter it had when we purchased it...and same TIPM...which btw has somehow miraculously survived all these miles with no issues. I did have to replace the coolant housing (it cracked) last year.

The only real issues I've had have been with the blower motor resistor...and an ac leak...which has yet to be fixed but will be soon hopefully. On to the good stuff now

I grew tired of reading about the commonly reported issue concerning the resistor...and not just on Dodge vehicles but most others as well...so decided to simply bypass it as many others have done. This of course left me with only high speed on the blower...which I've been fine with.

Recently The blower decided to stop working again. The following are my shade tree diagnostic details in dealing with this most recent issue.

First...the fan speed switch began to act up. It already only worked on high...but suddenly began requiring a little fiddling to get it to work. This went on for a couple of weeks until it stopped working completely. Naturally...I assumed all I needed to do was replace the entire control panel that housed this switch/dial...which I did.

I ordered a brand new one for less than a hundred bucks. During the replacement I discovered that the plastic (MAIN) connector that plugged into the back of this panel had melted...the thick blue/yellow wire on end of connector was the only connection affected by this...and I assumed the culprit behind my blower not working...along with the fan speed switch.

At this point I decided...I'M THROUGH with having to deal with these melted connectors...so I cut it off and simply attached each wire...one by one...to the proper connection tab on the panel side. I thought for sure my problem was solved...but it wasn't.

I turned the key to ignition on...turned the fan on high...and NOTHING. Okay...now I'm kinda peed off. I check for voltage at the blower...it's less than a year old...and I've got over 13 there. I figure...okay...blower obviously got shot during the plastic connector melt down phase...and finally gave out. No biggie...I'll get another.

But then I thought...let me go ahead and remove it...and hook up up straight off the battery....and it worked. So now I'm at a loss as I had yet to learn about the HIGH SPEED FAN RELAY...which is apparently...soldered onto the circuit board contained inside the TIPM. NOT GOING THERE...not this time anyway.

Once I learned about the relay....I thought to myself...is it really the relay. I still dont know...but what I do know is that the reason the blower would not spin was because of a ground fault. My hot was good...my ground coming from who knows where was not...but it worked when grounded to the chassis. Unfortunately...this was even with the key off...so what to do?

I need it to run...but only when I tell it too. So after looking at installing a new and separate relay and off/on switch mounted on the dash....I'm going with just a heavy duty SPST switch rated for 35 amps...and made to be used WITHOUT a relay. Most blowers from what I've read draw at the most 20 amps...so I should be good. I'll be using at a minimum one inch high temp shrink tubing as a flat backing material to sit between the dash and the switch as even though the switch is rated for high amp draw...I don't know if the plastic on the dash will hold up any better than the plastic on the previously mentioned connector...we shall see.

Anyway...that's my solution for getting it to work without having to worry with tearing into the inside of the TIPM and soldering in a new relay...'cause I'm sure not paying 800 to 1200 dollars for a new TIPM...and not getting one from the junkyard. You dont know what's fried or not inside of those.

I would love to hear any concerns/suggestions over my proposed fix...and/or ideas about the faulty ground wire. The ground I speak of is the one I had previously used and connected to the blower...coming from behind the glove box. I believe it is colored dark blue/purple?

Sorry for the novel...just wanted to be precise as possible in describing the history and current ailment of this vehicle.

Thanks for reading!
 

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UPDATE: Installed 35 amp switch...on gear selector cover plate...bottom right meatiest corner. Everything works as anticipated...with a few surprises.

First...as mentioned above...the whole reason for installing the switch was that when blower was grounded to door jamb instead of ground coming from under dash (which has a fault somewhere)...it worked even with the key out and ignition off.

After installing the switch...and relocating blower ground to metal brace behind radio...it now does NOT work with the ignition off...but with it ON now. Also...do not need original fan speed controller turned on to operate blower with installed switch....BUT...if I use it anyway...the blower actually gets quieter as I turn the controller to the right with each increase.

I'm no electrical engineer so I'm stumped as to why the blower worked with no ignition power and grounded somewhere else compared to how it operates now after installing the switch.

Any ideas or knowledge about what is going on here?
 
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