Dodge Caliber Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2008 Dodge Caliber R/T, 2.4, AWD, CVT, 2⅛” suspension lift from RRO.

Has anyone ideas on lowering the front cross member, and lowering the rear gearbox?

Because of the severe angle on the front control arm ball joints, I'm thinking of welding/bolting on a second cross member (under the original) just for those arms.

Because of the increased angle on the rear CV joints, I'm thinking about lowering the entire rear gearbox assembly, maybe a couple inches, matching the suspension lift.

I bet you never thought someone would ask these questions. 😆

16761


16762

16763
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
I've thought about doing exactly what you are talking about. I figure just 1" would put the balljoints and axles into a happier position with the lift. I just haven't really pulled the trigger on the project. I really liked how my car rode with the 2" lift but I really hated the vibration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I like your idea about lowering just an inch. I took sample bolts off a junked Caliber today, and will look into longer bolts, and figure out what I could use as spacers.

I wonder if black gas line nipple would hold up, or if I’ll need some sort of a steel block. Stacking fender washers sounds a bit ghetto for a Caliber. 😁

If I lower the front crossmember, I’ll need to raise the rack/pinion and the rear motor mount...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
I like your idea about lowering just an inch. I took sample bolts off a junked Caliber today, and will look into longer bolts, and figure out what I could use as spacers.

I wonder if black gas line nipple would hold up, or if I’ll need some sort of a steel block. Stacking fender washers sounds a bit ghetto for a Caliber. 😁

If I lower the front crossmember, I’ll need to raise the rack/pinion and the rear motor mount...
I figured I'd lower the rack and pinion too. But space the engine mounts up. No need (I think) to lower the engine with it. I figured I'd just order a handfull of spacers like these: ebay link and an assortment of new bolts and drop the front and rear crossmember. I'd also like to do something where the trailing arms mount in the "frame".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Can the rack be lowered? I would think that would put a weird angle on the whole steering wheel shaft/assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
As far as for the front cross-member, there is a lot of stuff attached to it, including a front engine mount.

I don’t think just lowering it is an option.

16924


16925


16926
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
As far as for the front cross-member, there is a lot of stuff attached to it, including a front engine mount.
....and the rear engine mount.

But, it seems that you could put longer bolts in the front and rear engine mounts and some spacers to keep the engine mounted at the level you want while lowering the front cross member.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
As far as for the front cross-member, there is a lot of stuff attached to it, including a front engine mount.

I don’t think just lowering it is an option.
I guess I was under the assumption that there was some kind of slip shaft that would have an inch of play I could rely on for lowering it. However, some bolts and spacers and I'm sure you could keep it in the same place. Same for the engine mounts. However, this is the main reason I haven't tried it yet and have just done some internet time wasting.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top