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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello there, new to this forum and am happy to be here. I have a 2008 Dodge Caliber SXT 2.0 L and recently it starting stalling intermittently immediately following start up. It sounds like it is choking and then dies. The ECT lightning bolt and oil lights come on when this occurs. We've replaced the throttle body (which wasn't good) and the plugs (properly gapped) but still have the problem persisting. It seems to be increasing in frequency too.


When it doesn't occur, the vehicle overall is running better with the tuneup and new throttle body but when this happens it just doesn't seem to want to run properly.


I've looked through a lot of threads and am wondering if anyone has had this same exact issue and discovered a solution?


Many thanks!
 

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Sounds like the threads dealing with security syncing. The anti-theft kicks in after a couple of seconds to turn off the motor if the code is not detected. Try your spare key first, otherwise if I remember the fix was to replace a module in the column.
Any other electrical gremlins to suggest a wiring issue ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Aleks! Yeah, I checked that out too and unfortunately it didn't do it yesterday with either key so I couldn't see if those lights were kicking in and causing it or not. Tough to diagnose when it only happens every now and then. I've got a huge list of things now after doing some research to gradually start checking off the list but it feels like throwing darts at a wall: oil pressure sensor, wiring harness/starter relay, fuel pump, WCM etc. Not totally sure how to eliminate these either without one by one replacing everything which feels like what's going to happen if I take it in to Chrysler. I don't currently have any other electrical weirdness going on. Thanks again.
 

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If you have to go thru replacing all of that why not just replace the car? They aren't worth anything.

Other than that go to a wrecking yard or search craigslist for a newer wreck to get all the parts from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Tonatom,


Interesting... I didn't think most people replace vehicles when one mechanical issue shows up; just trying to figure out the best troubleshooting methods and seeing if the vast experience in here would have an idea. I do have a driver's side lower door hinge issue though that I'll definitely consider the wrecker for.
 

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The module is SKREEM Sentry Key Remote Entry Module.

3 pages of threads on this forum about intermittent start
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
So, a quick update on this issue. I have read a bunch of stuff regarding the SKREM module and when the vehicle stalls out, the immobilizer light is NOT flashing therefore is not indicating a problem with the key or WCM.

Also, we pulled the bumper and the relay box behind the driver's side light looks fine, no corrosion, no obvious wire damage. Everything looks good. I did replace the starter relay but to no effect.

Again, there is absolutely no problem with spark or fuel and the vehicle will start every time. It's just that after about 4-5 seconds it will stall occasionally. My brother-in-law mentioned coolant temperature sensor or air intake/charge sensor? Any further ideas about where to look next?
 

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Check the intake manifold runner motor. Sometimes it gets stuck and won't allow proper air flow to the engine. You can do a search here and find information on it. That's about all I can think of. It's delicate, so be careful with it. And make sure the manifold isn't carboned up. That can cause the flaps to get stuck. You CAN remove it and clean them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks so much, definitely haven't seen that suggestion yet. One other piece of this puzzle is that it seems like the serpentine belt is chirping at about 800 RPM's (slipping?). Could that effect this stalling or is it just annoying? I'll definitely check into your suggestion too. Thanks very much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yes sometimes, but need to stay on it for probably close to a minute and then can drive with no problem. It's when it's left to idle, it chokes and dies.

Edit: actually see below. It didn’t in fact work trying to keep it going. It dies after a few seconds regardless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Atually I tried this tonight multiple times and it just dies, suddenly. I can rev up for a couple seconds and then BAM! Down it goes even with the throttle on 2-3000 RPM... chokes regardless of pedal on or not. Tonight when it was cooler, started and ran fine and no squelch from belt either. So weird . Does that give you any clues gjxj?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No codes whatsoever which is making this tough. Yeah I've had a few people think coolant temp sensor or air intake sensor as well as the MAP too but you'd think if any of those were the problem, it would be throwing codes. Oil pressure switch too. But I don't want to just start replacing everything without a clue. Your idea makes sense; now to try and locate a leak. : ) Could an EVAP leak potentially also cause this same issue without throwing a code? Thanks again
 

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An EVAP leak will usually throw a code, though it won't always cause the check engine light to come on.

For the heck of it pull out the rear seat bottom, remove the plastic cover in the center and check the electrical connector on your fuel pump for damage (it's not uncommon for corrosion to build up on the connector). A wonky fuel pump could cause an intermittent problem with fuel delivery and wouldn't throw a code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great suggestion! Thanks chrisf2012. We'll definitely check that out. Is there anything I need to do prior to doing that like de-pressurize fuel or pull battery etc? I've never worked on a fuel pump before.

Cheers and thanks,

Chris
 

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Great suggestion! Thanks chrisf2012. We'll definitely check that out. Is there anything I need to do prior to doing that like de-pressurize fuel or pull battery etc? I've never worked on a fuel pump before.
I've not worked on mine either, but I do believe the fuel pump can run with the ignition off so be sure to disconnect the battery. Unless you plan on actually removing the fuel pump instead of just inspecting the electrical connection at the pump then depressurizing the the fuel system shouldn't be strictly necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've not worked on mine either, but I do believe the fuel pump can run with the ignition off so be sure to disconnect the battery. Unless you plan on actually removing the fuel pump instead of just inspecting the electrical connection at the pump then depressurizing the the fuel system shouldn't be strictly necessary.
Ok, thanks for the advice. We'll have a look tonight! Cheers
 

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Any solution found for this issue?
I have the same issue.
Car starts and runs fine for a few seconds and then turns off. Sometimes it catches itself before completely dieing and goes another 5 seconds. With key on engine off the throttle body, engine and battery light blink back and forth randomly.
 
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