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I found a complete kit on ebay, part number 82209237, for too good a price to pass up and yesterday they showed up at my door. So of course I had to hurry home after work to install them. It was fairly easy despite the instructions containing nothing more than artistic renditions of each step so I figured I'd put something together to help the next cali owner out.

step 1 is to disconnect the battery. I like to ziptie the terminals together so they don't accidentally touch the battery posts. The factory battery terminals are held on with 10mm hardware.



The next thing to do is look under your steering column. You'll see two dark holes and a torx screw. The holes contain 2 phillips screws and the torx head is a t-20. The screws are way up in the holes so you'll need a long screwdriver.



After the screws are out just lift the top half of the column off to expose the turn signal and light switch. The instructions say to remove the bottom but it didn't want to come off for me and I didn't want to force it off. There is plenty of room to finish without removing the bottom fully. There is only one phillips screw holding the switch in. Just unscrew it (in my picture it's at the bottom and half unscrewed).



There are 2 plugs to remove from the turn signal switch, a white and a black one. They both come out fairly easy. Now just pull the switch to the left and it will slide out.



When installing the new switch be carefull of the black plug. The plastic on the column pushed back the insulation on one of my wires when I was persuading it to go back into place.



Now just put the column back together (opposite of removal) and head to the front bumper cover. It's time for the scary part to begin. First thing you have to do is remove the black deflectors behind the bumper where the fog lights will go. It just pushes out with a little force.





I put some tape in the hole where I was worried about scuffing anything I didn't want scuffed with the saw. Turned out it was more trouble than it was worth and I didn't do it to the other side.



No going back now, the nightmare has begun! Looks scary I know but any slip of the saw here and it will not matter. The "cup" will cover any marks left by the saw getting away from you.

:eek:


Just follow the curvature of the bumper to cut the ribs out. Like I said there is no need to be artistic here, the cup will cover everything.

 

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Now the hole we just made needs to be cleaned up. This is where that template is involved. At first I wasn't sure why there was a template as the cup fit in seemingly ok but after you clean it all up it fits perfect. Just tape it up there and get it close.



I used a white paint marker to trace the template. These paint markers work great for stuff like this and I've had the same one for probably 10+ years.






Now we've got it all marked off, it's time to break out the saws-all again.



I know it looks bad and it hurts to do this willingly to your caliber but rest asured the cup fixes everything.



Now do it all to the other side.



Now we have to get the cup ready to install. The cup comes with little divits where you'll need to drill a 7/32" hole for the mounting hardware. This is really easy to do since they've done the hard work for you.





Now put the cup back into the bumper cover and use the paint marker to mark where you'll need to drill for the mounting hardware.



To drill the furthest passenger side and drivers side holes you'll have to get creative. My drill was a little big to reach in the hole and drill them. On the drivers side the drill fit inside the bumper but on the passenger side it didn't. I had to bend the tab forward enough, without hurting the bumper, to get the drill lined up to drill it.

Now we need to get to the wiring aspect of it all. First you'll have to release the tabs on the fuse box to gain access to a wiring connector which we'll be adding a supplied connector into. There are 3 tabs and just push them outward from the box while lifting up on the box to get it free.

 

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When you get the fuse box free you'll see the plug closest to the battery. To release this plug you'll have to push upward on the red slider (which I don't have a pic of, it's on the front of the plug though) then rotate the white "handle" upward to unlock the plug from the fuse box.



The instructions here are really vauge. Cav 5 and Cav 6 with two non descript colored wires going to them. The wires you'll be installing are both white. I figure that it's either a power wire going to each individual bulb or like any other bulb it doesn't mater which way power runs through it, it's just a coil in a vacuum.

Also not photo'd (sorry folks :doh:) on the plug in the following pictures there is a white plastic "cover" for lack of a better word, on the end of the plug that goes into the fuse box. You'll need to use a pic or something similar to pry it up but do not pry it off.





Now that you have the new connector installed you can go ahead and reinstall the plug to the fuse box and reinstall the fuse box. Careful to not pinch any of the hundreds of wires coming out of the box when you reinstall it.

Go ahead and plug the fog light harness into the new plug you just installed and hook up the ground either to the battery (as per instructions) or like I did to one of the ground wires on the radiator core support. I chose the core support so that I didn't have any wires going to the battery creating the chance that it could get ripped out when someone services the battery. The nuts on the core support are 10mm.



Now you'll need to drill two 1/4" holes for the leg of the cup (you'll understand when you get them). The instructions state that the hole should be drilled 100mm from the straight side of the fog light access hole (this pic is taken from under the car looking up at directly beneath one of the fog lights). I don't know about you but I couldn't find a metric tape measure in my house. Luckily I payed attention in school and know that the metric to sae conversion is mm x 0.03937 = inches. Or in our case 100 x .03937 = 3.937 which would be just under 4 inches. I just did it at 3 7/8 inches and it lined up fine.


The next step is to install the fog lights! Finally! The instructions say to put the light in the cup then install the cup into the bumper. This does not work. The plastic clip on the furthest passenger and drivers side will not fit with the fog light installed into the cup. You'll need to put the clip in place then install the light into the cup. Then it's a matter of holding your tounge the right way to get the cup with the light and the clip to go into the bumper at the right angle so that the clip finds the hole you drilled in the bumper.



To install the light into the cup you'll need a t-20 torx bit for the two screws.



Almost there... Now to run the wiring harness. I ran it down behind the drivers side headlight into where the fog light is. Then I ran it along the bottom splash guard (the black plastic on the bottom of the car directly below the radiator) to the passenger side light. You should zip tie the harness wherever you can to keep it from flapping around and possibly getting damaged.



After you've run the harness it's time to hook the battery back up and reinstall your air intake duct and you're done!

Check out how sexy she is now!





Now just run down to your local dodge dealer and have them hook up their starscan and enable your fog lights. I have no idea how much this costs if anything since I haven't had it done yet. Just finished the install a couple hours ago.

I hope this helps someone out, I know I couldn't find anyone who had installed a mopar fog light kit and when I saw the instructions I could see why. :gr_grin:
 

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I was expecting a finish with a working light :)

Seriously good write up - probably go straight to the knowledge base.

Other members have said they did this install but NO PICS so it never happened !
 

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Great write up!!

Make sure that you flip the template around as you go from drivers side to passenger side. my stupid dealer cut out both sides the same way and it eventually ended up with them giving me a new bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Great write up!!

Make sure that you flip the template around as you go from drivers side to passenger side. my stupid dealer cut out both sides the same way and it eventually ended up with them giving me a new bumper.
That would be bad. Glad to hear it got taken care of.

Ross, I only paid $80 plus shipping for it through ebay. Regularly I think it's about twice that.

I went to the dealer today to ask about enabling the fogs and was told it's $95! Isn't that a bit much for pressing like 4 buttons?
 

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His loss your gain.

He ordered the wrong item then described it incorrectly - way to go winning with a single opening bid !
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just wanted to give a quick update. I went and had the fogs enabled today and it was about the same price at the 4 dealerships I asked. I paid $95 but at the same time also got a tsb done on "driveability" problems. It's listed on my receipt as "TSB Flashed PCM 52 W 103". Let me just tell you if you're car qualifies for it GO DO IT NOW. They did it for free for me and it's a whole new car. It's no challenger but when you press the gas it goes. And it feels like the trans "shifts" at certain points, can't really describe it. Also the exhaust seems deeper, that's probably in my head though. Anyways, like I said go get this done it makes a world of diference.
 

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Dodge made some programming changes for the CVT MY08, they should already have been included with yours.

The marketing spiel was

Powertrain: Engine and transmission calibrations further refined for improved drivability and reduced powertrain noise.

wonder if there has been something since that they've done ?
 

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Powertrain: Engine and transmission calibrations further refined for improved drivability and reduced powertrain noise.

wonder if there has been something since that they've done ?
MY10 got some slight retuning to improve MPG, but no great improvement. No performance improvements were made.

I recently drove a 2011 Compass (2.0 FWD) - drives exactly like my Caliber - but I'm still tempted.
 

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I recently drove a 2011 Compass (2.0 FWD) - drives exactly like my Caliber - but I'm still tempted.
for $25,000 ? ?
No - around 20K dealer list price - I said 2.0 FWD pretty basic model (same exact drivetrain as the Caliber)

$25K is for the 2.4 4WD with higher trim levels.
 

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I just tried looking for the kit and the lowest i seen it is 130. and the highest is 190. are those still good prices or should I wait?
 
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