[josh995]

For what it's worth, I did this procedure a year ago and followed the instructions exactly. After waiting an hour, I got in my car and started driving. I noticed a difference right away.

Well I moved across country, literally. From the California desert to near the coast of Virginia. Not sure if the HUGE change in climate had anything to do with it but I have noticed my R/T AWD getting somewhat pokey.

I did this procedure again today and again, after waiting an hour I noticed a difference straight away. More pep, smoother acceleration. Awesome.

 

[CWBerube]

Hey not to knock this down in any way, I'm just curious. :wavey:

Does anyone have an explanation\evidence that the duration of time from the "Up to Floor \ Floor to Up" and also the 1 hour wait time is necessary?
I've done a similar process of TPS Calibration via a Power Commander on a motorcycle. Procedure: Key-On-Run position \ start with the throttle Closed (Click Set) \ then WOT (Click Set) and you're done.

I realize this is not a motorcycle nor a power commander but I would presume we're calibrating the Min & Max values.
I just can't understand (without explanation) why the "15 second" Up-Down-Up & 1 hour is needed.

Planning to try this and figured additional info would be nice. Perhaps then add the informed response to the 1st post for other inquiring minds.
Thank you, very much appreciated!

 

[Prop1]

Hey not to knock this down in any way, I'm just curious. :wavey:

Does anyone have an explanation\evidence that the duration of time from the "Up to Floor \ Floor to Up" and also the 1 hour wait time is necessary?
I've done a similar process of TPS Calibration via a Power Commander on a motorcycle. Procedure: Key-On-Run position \ start with the throttle Closed (Click Set) \ then WOT (Click Set) and you're done.

I realize this is not a motorcycle nor a power commander but I would presume we're calibrating the Min & Max values.
I just can't understand (without explanation) why the "15 second" Up-Down-Up & 1 hour is needed.

Planning to try this and figured additional info would be nice. Perhaps then add the informed response to the 1st post for other inquiring minds.
Thank you, very much appreciated!

I tested it. That is how it worked. You're not calibrating the "min/max" values. You are in fact calibrating the response between the pedal and the throttle body. Going slow and consistent over the 15 seconds allows for the throttle body to be taught to follow what you want it to do immediately when you want it to.

 

[CWBerube]

You've tested multiple methods or the 1 original way that's listed?
I don't see the correlation of how going slow and consistent teaches a vehicle's "memory or logic" to follow what we want the throttle to do on demand.
That is unless you're giving the computer a more defined Min \ Max setting which I'm leaning more towards. (Though you mentioned it's not calibrating Min \ Max values)

Example: The default\generic out of box 0-100% throttle settings have 1-20 points of calibration and\or acceleration settings. By more slowly pressing the throttle pedal (within reason) we're creating more like 1-25 or 1-50 points of calibration, thus providing a more sensitive pedal that reacts\instructs the ECU to spray more fuel, etc and so on. (1 being idle \ Highest being WOT)

I believe that your method works (based on user feedback) I'm just one of those why and how people. Know what I mean?

 

[Prop1]

If I had a computer like the dealers do; I could give you all the facts to back up the "Procedure". I don't. I tried several ways and that was the way that worked. Just accept it for what it is. Sometimes faith is all you can go by.

 

[vampirin2002]

Ill try this later

 

[stevenb1]

Tried it, works much better now, The 20mph jerky is gone.. great post
Thanks, Steven

 

[Itkonen]

This really works. 2.0 SXT Caliber with CVT had a "dead spot" in the beginning, now it is gone. Also I thought that maybe I should change oil to cvt since it was working a little odd, like having "bumps" now and then and not working smooth. After this calibration bumps are gone. Acceleraters smoother and kickdown does not anymore have that odd delay. To have this much positive effetcs to cars behaviour usually costs hundreds and takes a lot of work. This was free and took five minutes of time. STUNNING!

 

[deanno]

Hello everyone. just got back from taking the kids for a walk and with no warning i got crappy throttle response. I started off ok and when i wound depress the pedal the engine would reach only 3000 rpm with little power. codes I got with my scanner was P0315 P0456 C0300 and P0004 I know wht the first 2 codes are but having trouble finding C0300 and P0004. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

[Excaliber07]

I know wht the first 2 codes are but having trouble finding C0300 and P0004.

http://enginedtc.com/p0004-dodge-caliber
http://c0300-dodge.autotroublecode.com/

 

[deanno]

Thanks Glen. I was having a real struggle fionding this info.
Cheers,
Dean

 

[672aq]

I finally got this to work.

I tried it a couple of times before, as instructions here were written. Tried the 10-second and 15-second ways, but couldn't figure out if anything really changed.

On Sunday, I tried something different;
Door closed. Turn key to [ON], but don't start.
Wait until all the idiot lights turn off (except the one engine light).
Pressed the gas pedal smoothly to the floor, taking about 5-seconds down and 5-seconds up, three times.
Turned the key to [OFF], removed the key, opened the door.

Closed the door, started the car (at this moment I could tell the idle was different), then went for a drive.

Acceleration from 0MPH is a bit faster. The 20mph power dip is gone. Highway acceleration is better.

Driving idle is below 2000RPM. Idle at a red light is around 750 now when it used to stumble at 500 before.

I'm happy.

*I just remembered that this is similar to the oil light reset (pedal down & up 3-times within ten seconds), so be careful.

 

[Aleks]

CALIBERATION

 

[672aq]

Can this be related?:

I run E-85 for fuel (the car runs a lot better [in warm weather] on ethanol). Usually the CEL is on because of the "lean" burn condition associated with the cleaner burning alcohol.

But now, after doing this procedure, the CEL doesn't light up, and the error codes for lean burn are gone.

I'm wondering if this also helps the computer to figure out what's going on with using the different fuel.

 

[Aleks]

My guess is it is an adjustment to optimise combustion (irrespective of cause)

 

[672aq]

Nevermind... I found out today that the fuel station [secretly] changed from E85 to E15.

So my Caliber can run ≤15% ethanol and it won't throw a CEL. The procedure had nothing to do with it.