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The Organizer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We need to post this info from Bigtsr in our Knowledge Base as a sticky. It's too important to let it get buried. I have edited it to add how I did it because the way I did it really improved the throttle response! This possibly could improve the manuals as well since it is mainly a reprogramming of the throttle response. I don't really know how much this directly effects the CVT.

Originally Posted by bigtsr
While surfing the for Caliber parts off the net I noted another fact about the
fly by wire throttle system posted by a Caliber owner. You can recalibrate the throttle yourself to eliminate flat spots or pauses in its response curve according to the post, as I am not having any problems in those areas I thought I would post the procedure here and anyone wishing to try it could post the results.

1-ignition to RUN but do not start
2-wait until all the idiot lights go out (engine light should be the only one to remain on)
3-slowly depress the gas peddle to the floor (take at least 15 seconds to gradually push it to the floor, do not waver as you push)
4-slowly release gas peddle to full up (again, take at least 15 seconds to gradually let it back up, do not waver as you let up)
5-ignition to off
6-DO NOT START IMMEDIATELY! Allow to sit for up to 1 hour, then start and check for difference in response and linearity.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can this, or will this effect the MPG? Good or bad?
I don't know. I only just did it, and if you drive as you normally do, it should remain the same. It's just nice to know on those occasions when you need to get across a busy street, you can do it without fearing for your life.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
they teach you to let all the idiot lights go out, then start the car anyways,

but good find, this resets the throttle response?
Better read the procedure again. You made it sound stupid. But yes, it did work for me. I got a tire squeal when I made a fast left turn from a stop. That has never happened before.
 
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I tried this again earlier today and still didn't see a difference. only now did I take note to "take 15 seconds". This is definitely something I didn't do.

What exactly do you mean by that? Slowly press it down and hold 15 seconds, or take 15 seconds to press it down?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tried this again earlier today and still didn't see a difference. only now did I take note to "take 15 seconds". This is definitely something I didn't do.

What exactly do you mean by that? Slowly press it down and hold 15 seconds, or take 15 seconds to press it down?
I gradually pushed the accelerator down over a 15 second period, and then let it up at the same rate. I figured when the procedure stated "slowly" it meant the slower the better. Believe me when I say the 20mph dip is gone, and the acceleration is joyously smooth and rapid.
 

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EDIT: this was written when I had an AWD R/T

You got me curious so I immediately dropped in the car, in slippers, to try this again. Now, at this time, I headed to the industrial neighborhood to try this.

I have reseted on site for a second time, because when I first did it in the car one light was still ON when I started the procedure. So, as above, I took a good 15-ish seconds for both down/up trips, for a total of 30-ish seconds.

Removed the key, then back in and started the car, engaged in D, slammed it hard.

I had a frickin tire squeal. I have a frickin AWD.

Then I realized half the car was in gravel so that instant hard-on didn't last long. :Na_Na_Na_Na:

I moved the car to a pavement-only patch and tried again.

I can't say I was that impressed with the acceleration (but then again, I have a Ninja bike), but maybe, just maybe, it was a tad better. Perhaps the psyche is playing tricks on me. Hard to tell.

If I slam it for a few seconds and release the pedal to ease down, it seems like the engine is staying longer in a higher rev point, though, so something might actually be happening with this procedure. Either that or I just want it to.

I tried hard accelerations in both drive and AutoStick mode. AS seemed to have a different RPM/CVT ratio than it did. I wish I had some the test before and after using a camera.

Where does this procedure come from? I've not seen it documented anywhere.

EDIT: this was written when I had an AWD R/T
 
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Discussion Starter #9
You need to ask bigtsr where he found it. I did forget to add that I didn't turn it back on right a way. I was in bare feet and went in to put my shoes on, and one thing lead to another, and it was around an hour later before I took it for a drive. This was yesterday, and it seems to have gotten better the more it's driven. I don't know what the procedure really does, but I know it worked in my case. Is the car a rocket? No, but it is definitely more responsive, and the acceleration is much smoother.
 
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I discovered the procedure to recalibrate the "fly by wire" throttle
while reading posts by CSRT4 owners on another (shall go nameless)
site.
One of the owners was explaining the procedure to clear some of the
fault codes by using the same basic procedure only pressing the pedal
down slowly "3 times",someone else then posted he had only done it
1 time and noticed a difference in the acceleration versus rpm curve
with improved response.
I thought it a worthwhile effort to try,didn't cost anything and if it
helped anyone then great.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I discovered the procedure to recalibrate the "fly by wire" throttle
while reading posts by CSRT4 owners on another (shall go nameless)
site.
One of the owners was explaining the procedure to clear some of the
fault codes by using the same basic procedure only pressing the pedal
down slowly "3 times",someone else then posted he had only done it
1 time and noticed a difference in the acceleration versus rpm curve
with improved response.
I thought it a worthwhile effort to try,didn't cost anything and if it
helped anyone then great.
Where ever you got it, it's a great find. I really think (based on the feedback so far)that the key is to move the accelerator very slow, taking at least 15 seconds in each direction and not waver in the movement. I don't know if my not turning it on and restarting it only after an hour was a factor or not. I do know I am very happy with the results.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I want to try this today at lunch. Do you all think it would make a difference if the car sat more than an hour? What about brand new engines with only a little over 100 miles on it? Should it work still?
All you're doing is recalibrating the fly-by-wire programming. It doesn't make a difference how old the car is. Let sit as long as you want.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok. I did this over my lunch. The only thing is that my engine light never went out. All lights are supposed to be out?
I was only concerned about the ones in the center. I didn't notice if the engine light was on.
 

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Worth trying the procedure. I'm physically down right now, but will get to it. Slow up & down on the pedal. Hey, that sounds like....featherfooting! The procedure must work! ha ha ha :D

Featherfooting to get your car to go fast? Now that will be a feather in any featherfooters cap...or foot!:wavey::wow:
 
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