I completely removed the dash...so much more space!

Bah... copper ain't light.
Cut all that out, too.

What did you eat for breakfast?
If it wasn't "Chocolate Super-Lax," it's possible to loose some weight there.

Is this still within any racing regulations with all the original stuff removed?

672aq said:

Bah... copper ain't light.
Cut all that out, too.

Click to expand...

Good idea!

Actually, there are large parts of the harness unused (HVAC, airbags, radio, etc.) and we've been thinking about cutting those out too.

672aq said:

Is this still within any racing regulations with all the original stuff removed?

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Most racing series require most or all of the interior to be removed.

There are only a few series, like autocross and rallycross have classes where you are not allowed to remove the interior.

It is generally safer to completely remove the interior on a car meant for racing. There is reduced fire risk and more room for egress.

What does the computer think of all this?

672aq said:

What does the computer think of all this?

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It is angry

The airbag lights and check engine are on, and I have many codes but none for the engine itself. It runs great.

Are you concerned with crumple zones on these cars?

I was looking at ones in the junkyard and can't figure out exactly where these zones are, and have no idea how to reinforce the front and back from... crumpling in a hit.

Never seen a back tested, it is the driver/buyer who is assessed. If it is by a car you get their crumpling, if bigger then you are toast.

672aq said:

Are you concerned with crumple zones on these cars?

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No concern. Even poorly made modern cars like the Caliber have excellent crumple zone design and overall crash safety.

With a full roll cage, road race containment racing seat, 6 point FIA harness (seat belts), and hans device, (plus helmet and full fire suit) I am extremely well protected when I crash.

672aq said:

I was looking at ones in the junkyard and can't figure out exactly where these zones are

Click to expand...

The crumple zones on most cars are everything in front of the front shock/strut towers and everything in back of the rear shock/strut towers.

672aq said:

, and have no idea how to reinforce the front and back from... crumpling in a hit.

Click to expand...

You should not do that. The crumple zones are designed to crumple so that they absorb the energy from a crash...if they don't crumple then you are much more likely to be injured.

Take a look at this example of an older car with no crumple zones vs a modern car:

Wow. That video is very convincing. No crumple zones means everything crumples!

I was thinking about the Caliber bouncing off, instead... but, maybe I'll change my mind and just call it a loss (in the interest of safety) in this case.

Thanks.

Aleks said:

Crash Test EuroNCAP Dodge Caliber (2007).

i thought i would post a new thread of the Euro test crah that the Caliber got 4 stars for..

www.caliberforumz.com

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I'm amazed at how fast those side airbags inflate. POW! - You're safe!

In a front collision, where does the engine go? Under the car? I just realized the almost all the Calibers in the junkyard with front crashes have no engine.

I was thinking someone just took them, but an wondering if they fall off in a crash.

672aq said:

...I just realized the almost all the Calibers in the junkyard with front crashes have no engine.

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I think that is because people are pulling the engine in junkyards to get to the transmission. They have a Caliber with a failed CVT and are pulling the CVT from a crashed Caliber in the hope that it is better than the CVT they have in their own Caliber

Better than ≈ Less failed? 😆

So how much dose the caliber weigh now?

CaliburGuy2021 said:

So how much dose the caliber weigh now?

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We took out a bunch, but we've added the cage...all in I'd say we are at least 250 pounds lighter.

Between the lost weight, stiffer suspension, stiffer body due to roll cage and weight shifted towards center (Due to battery relocation, removing dash, removing HVAC system, etc.), the car handles amazingly well...nimble and fast.

That roll cage, is that welded inside the car? Or assembled outside and Tetris-ed in somehow?

Custom built and welded in.

I'm not sure what I'm looking at. But, this is all welded inside the car? Take out all the flammables first?

I've seen cages that are inside stock-looking cars; ie, with dash, carpet, seats, etc. And wondered how cages get into cars.

I guess bolting on steel pipes wouldn't work (for my non-race car).

What's the white paint for?

672aq said:

I'm not sure what I'm looking at. But, this is all welded inside the car? Take out all the flammables first?

I've seen cages that are inside stock-looking cars; ie, with dash, carpet, seats, etc. And wondered how cages get into cars.

I guess bolting on steel pipes wouldn't work (for my non-race car).

What's the white paint for?

Click to expand...

Welded joints are rust prone, the paint it to protect them from rust.

The pic above is the passenger footwell, you can just see the door opening.

For race cars, you generally strip the interior and then weld in the cage.

For street cars with occasional track use, you can buy or fabricate a bolt in cage that requires only minimal interior mods.