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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Dropped the car on aftermarket springs or coilovers? Car looks like it's loaded with fatties in the rear seat?

There's a simple fix: the RealTune rear adjustable camber arm kit.

This kit replaces the top stock control arm that is not adjustable on the CSRT4, with a sturdier, race bushing-ed heavy steel tubular built replacement that has a adjustable-length bolt at one end.

This is a rather easy install but you do need the tools. For the most part, most toolbox has what you need but you do need a rather unusual 18mm socket. It's not a common size and with the car up and in pieces, realized that my 18mm ratcheting key could not reach the inner-most bolt. No way around it: you need a short 18mm socket. I had to bike to my friend's place to borrow his as I didn't have one that size :disgust:

Install time took me about 2 hours, excluding the bike ride, but including the time to setup the camera and being otherwise slow. I'm a software developer, not a seasoned mechanic.

Other than the 18mm socket, it's all common territory.

Use a hydraulic jack to lift the RIGHT suspension. I used a block of steel to evenly sit the lower control arm:



and sat a jack stand under the strut:



You can then lift the other side of the car. I used the usual frame jack point for it. No need to jack from the suspension on the left side:



Using a level on the K-member:



continue lifting the left side by small increment until the level is... leveled:



Before we go further I'm goin go answer a couple of questions you may be asking yourself.

The reason we lift the right side by the suspension is that we are going to use the right side to adjust the camber kit to your specific suspension/wheels. It's a bit easier to work on the right side because there is no EVAP canister and fuel line in the way. It's just easier.

The reason we don't lift by the suspension on the left side is that it's not necessary. The frame is still a better jack point for the car. For as long as the cross member is leveled (even if the body twists a bit), we're going to be peachy.

Locate the stock arm bolts. The one nearer to the disk is the "outer bolt":



and the one near the center of the car is the "inner bolt":



Beging by ratcheting the outer bolt. You may have to hold the nut on the other side: both will come off. Once the nut is out, leave the bolt in until you're done with the inner bolt: this will avoid the arm from twisting and make it needlessly difficult to remove the inner bolt.

The inner bolt is only that: a bolt. The nut is actually welded on the K-member so dont try to turn it.

Use a ratchet to unscrew the bolt. You may need a long ratchet handle or a pipe expander for extra torque:



Once the inner bolt is removed, take off the outer bolt and the arm will just fall off.

Case of OCD...

One of my RT arms' bushing was about 1mm out of alignment. I used a rubber mallet to nudge it back in place:



That was not really necessary because once the arm is in place, it will be sandwiched in place by the bolt.

For extra protection (not pictured) I wrapped the RT adjustable arm into a cloth to avoid scraping it while manipulating it in the car.

Work the adjustable end of the camber arm a bit. There is some power coating residue in there that makes it a bit tight. I used a dab of white lithium grease to ease it in and out.

Shove the FIXED (non-adjustable) end of the RT adjustable camber arm in the K-member and slide a bolt in. No need to screw it in entirely but do screw it in to make sure it's straight. The arm should be curved UP (like the stock one was).

Fix the adjustable end of the arm with the outer bolt and check, using another level, the verticality of the wheel hub:



Use the plumb line approach to make sure the level it vertical. If it's not perfectly vertical it will affect your reading.

Remove the outer bolt, proceed with some adjustment (screw in or out), fix the bolt in again and recheck with a level.

Rinse & repeat until you have alignment:



Now take off both inner and outer bolts and take out the adjusted arm, so that we can set the other one to match.

Here is a comparaison of mine with the stock arm, with the ends aligned using one of the bolts:



Proceed to adjust the other arm as the one you just removed from the car. Use the bolts to make sure they are aligned:





Now, unless your car has serious body issues, both arms will correct both wheel camber in respect to the cross-member. If anything is out of line, you have a far more serious issue with your car :bom:

The torque to set the arm bolts is either 70 FT/LBS or, as whoosh puts it, 1 ****ing Tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Before:

After:


Whoosh suggests having the car aligned because this does touch the toe. It's not primordial but should prevent even more wheel wear.
 

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Awesome write up!! :rep:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
^ fixed some typos, added torque specs, removed blue site link.
 
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nice! thanks for posting! :rep:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This item has been a good success for RealTune with their first batch selling out. Demand is strong enough still that thet outsourced for another batch being produced.

This is all good news for them but also for us. It has convinced them to go ahead with another suspension component: they are workin on better Lower Control Arms for the car. This is the weakest spot (other than K-member) of the car. For this, RealTune wants to compare their development notes with actual failed LCAs.

If you or someone has failed LCAs in hand, RealTune would lke to hear from you. They will pay for shipping.

The replacement LCAs and bushing would also eliminate the need for traction bars.

Presumably these would fit all Calibers.

If you have an account on the Blue site, just PM whoosh. If you dont, PM me here and I will relay for you. My interest in this is that I want better LCAs. Before mine fails.
 

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Think mine are still in the recycling bin - I'll check after the Cali meet.
 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rALVUOmw_AQ&feature=channel

Fully adjustable camber arm for Dodge Caliber / Jeep Compass and Patriot replaces the nonadjustable stock arm.
Camber is adjustable for a range of +/- 2 degrees with cam adjuster.

Adjustment Range:
Camber +/-2.5°
Ins. time: .7 hr/side
 
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