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so I installed the hid kit, they work but flicker, I added the relays and they still flicker... im told I need a capacitor?? is that seem correct??
 

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Discussion Starter #122
so I installed the hid kit, they work but flicker, I added the relays and they still flicker... im told I need a capacitor?? is that seem correct??
Without knowing how you made your connections it would be hard to tell where the problem is. A capacitor across the ballast input may help, but size would depend on the ballast. It could be the relay coil doesn't match with the OE lights impedance. A diode may help there.
 

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Where do the relay contacts get their power from in your setup?
 

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The relays get their power directly from the battery... there is a connector that hooks to the factory headlight harness... when the low beam or high beam is on it triggers the appropriate relay... each balast is as well grounded directly to the body, the kit had very simple connections lol... the same relay triggers both balasts, the driver side connector is connected but the passenger side is not... both headlights are triggered by the driver side headlight only...
 

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Discussion Starter #125
The relays get their power directly from the battery... there is a connector that hooks to the factory headlight harness... when the low beam or high beam is on it triggers the appropriate relay... each balast is as well grounded directly to the body, the kit had very simple connections lol... the same relay triggers both balasts, the driver side connector is connected but the passenger side is not... both headlights are triggered by the driver side headlight only...
Try grounding the ballast directly back to the negative of the battery.
 

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Ok at the risk of sounding stupid, i have read about hids and there effects on the calibers, but... I tried to install them anyways. I have the cun-bus h13 set up, just plug and play with the caps for both sides. I have rain hids in all my cars but this is my first dodge and appears to be a finicky one :).... the pass side works great but my driver side blinks four times then shuts off. an now i notice that only my driver side has a high beam. i took both out today and put the factory back in and notice
 

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noticed that the pass side that the hid worked but that the high beam did not, had a ground wire come loose from the high bulb. Does this equal up to why the hid works on that side? or any ideas? thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #128
noticed that the pass side that the hid worked but that the high beam did not, had a ground wire come loose from the high bulb. Does this equal up to why the hid works on that side? or any ideas? thank you
Check all your wiring. If you already found a loose ground; sounds like you already have an answer.
 

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I checked all the wiring and fixed the grounds to the high beams, But it still only works before i start the car. Now that i fixed the wires neither come on while the car is running. I feel like i am running around in circles to get this to work. The car has not tried to start itself again luckily but i am lost on where to go from here
 

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Discussion Starter #130
I checked all the wiring and fixed the grounds to the high beams, But it still only works before i start the car. Now that i fixed the wires neither come on while the car is running. I feel like i am running around in circles to get this to work. The car has not tried to start itself again luckily but i am lost on where to go from here
The starting and the issue of the lights is a common occurrence. Have you reset the TIPM after each attempted fix? The TIPM will not reactivate the circuit by itself. If a reset doesn't work; then I suspect that the HIDs you installed are not electrically compatible with the Caliber.
 

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ok heres my problem. hid's installed using the relay tapped relay trigger from the headlight. and power is from the battery. and I have been reading that my hid's are the reason for the starter to engage. I really want to keep my hid's but dont want to keep having to replace my starter.


Please Help....
 

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Discussion Starter #132
ok heres my problem. hid's installed using the relay tapped relay trigger from the headlight. and power is from the battery. and I have been reading that my hid's are the reason for the starter to engage. I really want to keep my hid's but dont want to keep having to replace my starter.


Please Help....
Did you use an automotive rated relay? Sometimes a relay requires a diode across the coil to operate more cleanly. It could also be that the relay coil has a different resistance then the OE lights. That would require the use of a resistance to match the OE. Having said all this; you may still not get the HIDs to work without issue.

Bet you bought the cheap Chinese ebay HIDs, huh?
 

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I also didn't hook up the high beams since the first set I installed were the cheap hid lights. But the bulbs were different colors so I had them replaced and got a better set of bulbs. That actually had the correct connection for the h13 bulb but cause of the need for the relay I just tapped into the low beam only. I didn't feel the need for the high beams since I never use them.
Prop1 How do I check the resistance and what is the correct resistance I need for the caliber. And I also wonder if I were to install one relay kit for each ballast instead of having one relay for two hid ballast if that would help.
I canon you my number if you do phone support or thi k you can help me out. I can explain it a lot better over the phone verses in a message.
Really need to get the Hid's working so they don't burn up my starter again.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
I also didn't hook up the high beams since the first set I installed were the cheap hid lights. But the bulbs were different colors so I had them replaced and got a better set of bulbs. That actually had the correct connection for the h13 bulb but cause of the need for the relay I just tapped into the low beam only. I didn't feel the need for the high beams since I never use them.
Prop1 How do I check the resistance and what is the correct resistance I need for the caliber. And I also wonder if I were to install one relay kit for each ballast instead of having one relay for two hid ballast if that would help.
I canon you my number if you do phone support or thi k you can help me out. I can explain it a lot better over the phone verses in a message.
Really need to get the Hid's working so they don't burn up my starter again.
You'll need a digital multimeter. I don't know the resistance you need. You would have to check the resistance of an old bulb. If you can't do any of that, then if you have a friend that is good at electrical; enlist his aid. Short of that you will have to go to an auto electrical shop. Since I don't have a Caliber anymore it would not be very easy to talk you through this without a Caliber in front of me.

I sure am glad my Subaru doesn't have a TIPM that is a hold over from the Daimler days and doesn't belong on cheap cars.
 

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I can do the resistance but that's all I will need to do and then where would I put the resistor. And how do I know my current resistance. Since I will have the ballast I know I will not measure just the bulb. Do I need to measure the ballast with the bulb connected or do I need to hook up the high beams and hope that fixes the problem. The lights don't flicker and work great just feel that they are causing my starter to engage.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
I can do the resistance but that's all I will need to do and then where would I put the resistor. And how do I know my current resistance. Since I will have the ballast I know I will not measure just the bulb. Do I need to measure the ballast with the bulb connected or do I need to hook up the high beams and hope that fixes the problem. The lights don't flicker and work great just feel that they are causing my starter to engage.
You need to measure the coil resistance of the relay and compare that to the resistance of the original head light bulb. That will tell you the value of the resistor needed. It will need to be connected in series with the relay coil.
 

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Thinking about removing the hid's from the headlights switch all together and just wiring them to a rocker switch on the dash near my toggle switch for my radio video bypass. Think this would eliminate any and all problems at the same time. Really want my hid's and if I do it this way I can have drl's.
 

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85, 86 are the coil
The white wire should go to ground
The black wire to the "hot" of your low beams

30, 87 are your controlled circuit - tis circuit actually switches the lights on and off.

The yellow wire looks to be terminal 30 - this should go to the battery + terminal through a 20 A or so fuse (smaller is better)

The blue wire looks to be terminal 87 - this is the hot feed to the HID ballast.
(see ballast instructions for more details)

The red wire looks to be terminal 87a - this wire is not used in this hookup. It should be "capped off" with a crimp type wire nut ans safely tucked away.

Hope this helps!

Add - I would use one relay per light rather than one relay feeding two HID units.
what do you mean by

The black wire to the "hot" of your low beams

The blue wire looks to be terminal 87 - this is the hot feed to the HID ballast
 

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The black wire should go to the wire that originally fed power to the low beam filament of the headlight ( the wire that went to pin 1 of the light plug). This way, when you turn your low beams on, the relay coil energizes and pulls in the contacts that feed the HID ballast.

Based on the '07 wiring diagram

Left "hot" wire (WT/DB) White with Dark Blue tracer stripe
Right "hot" wire (VT/RD) Violet with Red tracer stripe
 

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I recently installed some HIDs in my '08 caliber with the use of the relay that I purchased. I'm getting problems with the passenger head light not turning on on the first try and flickering when it does go on, and also when I flick the headlights on the rear window defroster light comes on... So weird but it's happening. Any ideas what could be causing this?
 
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