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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
First off...my paint isn't in yet but i have everything else needed so when it does arrive we'll be ready to go....

Before anything...make sure your headlight fits in your oven centered without touching any of the sides with the oven door shut.
ITEMS NEEDED
oven (electric or gas)
oven mits or hand towels
Medium sized towel (for soft surface to work on)
Flat head screwdriver or stiff knife and whatever tools you will need to take off the hardware on the back for the headlight.
WHITE masking tape (not painters tape)
SELF ETCHING primer
paint color of your choice (preferrably one that bonds to plastic but any auto paint will work if you use primer)
waterproof clear silicone that bonds to plastic (VERY IMPORTANT)
and finally...PATIENCE! lol
if it is your first time attempting this..TAKE YOUR TIME and read everything carefully before you begin.

Will continue when my paint comes in.
 

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When you come to the states you can do mine lmao.
What?? Chaser, is that baby keeping you awake all night? Tennessee is in the states. :Na_Na_Na_Na:
 

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Nice Write Up...So far, but umm.... where are the photo's?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nice Write Up...So far, but umm.... where are the photo's?
The photos will go when i actually do the job...paint isn't here yet
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got notice that paint should be here thursday before noon...if that is the case i will do the write up thursday night...and i think i might get a cabin in gatty next year...if anyone wants their lights done ill gladly do it for a small fee of $10 u supply primer/paint and silicone but hopefully with this write up you can DIY
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So...paint got here...took all pictures completed one headlight assembly in full and what happens....i go to do the right up on the site and my computer is broken...ugh,sorry guys. This will have to wait till next monday, i leave for a cruise tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here it is guys, I used the hotel business center because I felt bad and promised you all this write up before I left, so here it is.

ITEMS NEEDED
oven (electric or gas)
oven mits or hand towels
Medium sized towel (for soft surface to work on)
Flat head screwdriver or stiff knife and whatever tools you will need to take off the hardware on the back for the headlight.
WHITE masking tape (not painters tape)
SELF ETCHING primer
paint color of your choice and clear coat 1 can of each per light for best results (preferrably base that bonds to plastic but any auto paint will work if you use primer)
waterproof clear silicone that bonds to plastic (VERY IMPORTANT)
and finally...PATIENCE! lol
if it is your first time attempting this..TAKE YOUR TIME and read everything carefully before you begin.

I know I said not painters tape...but if you are very carful in removing it..you will not take off the chrome finish. this is all i had in my garage at the time. remeber to be sure to read the paint instructions carefully for temp ideals and recoating/drying times.

MATERIALS


Make sure before you start you test fit your head light to make sure it will in fact fit in your oven. It should be centered evenly all the way around without touching any sides inside when the door is closed.


When you know your headlight fits in your over, remove it in PREHEAT the oven to 200F. If you know that your oven bakes hotter or colder than the set temperature, compensate for that, if you are between 190F and 225F you will be ok.


During this time you can remove your light bulbs and tape off any surface you feel my melt or warp just to give it a little extra protecting. I decided to goahead and tape off the bulb holes and the big metal bolt sticking out for the back...this step is optional.



When you oven is preheated, place your headlight assembly carefully inside without touching the sides or back. Set your timer for 15 minutes and close the door. BE SURE TO CHECK every 5 minutes to make sure your light is OK and there is no melting present. If there is a little bit of smoke turn the temperature down slightly.

When the time is up, take you light out carefully...IT WILL BE HOT...and place it on your towel or soft work surface. You will have to move rather quickly at this part. Unclip all the cips around the light by carefully pulling them up. You will hear a click and they will stay where they are.


With your DULL knike or flat head screwdriver find a corner and slowly slide it in the factory sealant and under the clear platic lip prying up carefully puting a little more force every few seconds. you should be able to feel the llens separating from the housing. If it does not, put the light back in the oven for another 5 minutes and try again. DO NOT FORCE IT. Working QUICKLY but meticulously, work your knife or screwdriver all the way around the lens being sure not to pry too hard and crack the plastic. I cracked mine slightly but will besure to fill them with silicone on the silicone step later on. If you see cracks like the ones below...DO NOT WORRY, itll be ok.


Once you have made it all the way around the light and dislodged the factory sealant from the lens, gently pull apart the lens from the housing by hand. If the sealant is broken properly, the lens should come right off fairly easy.

Remove the yellow plastic reflector by removing the pressure clips holding it on.

If you are at this point, You can go ahead and turn your oven OFF.

YOU ARE NOW READY TO TAPE
Like mentioned above, WHITE masking tape is best but if you have painters tape it just mean you have to be extra careful when it come the removing.

Before you start taping, look at your headlight and find the best way YOU think you can tape off the reflective bowls for each light socket. For the MAIN LIGHT I noticed a small gap between the bowl and housing

instead of puting the tape right inside the bowl i used the edges and taped straight across the top of the main bowl making sure every area of the reflective surface was protected from paint.


Once that is done, the HARD PART begins lol. carefull tape the edges of the turn indicator bowl beofer covering the middle. DO NOT RUSH this part. take as much time as you sneed to edge off the reflective bowl. I used a hobby knife and carefully trimmed the tape exactly to fit.

Once you edge, continue to cover the middle of the bowl being sure not to press down on the tape too hard. If you press too hard the chrome finish will come off with the tape upon removal. Make sure entire reflective surface is protected once again.

This is what it should look like when you are done taping...

be sure to clean any surface you wish to be painted making sure there is no oils (finger prints) or materials present.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
YOU ARE NOW READY TO START PRIMING/PAINTING
Again, be sure to read all instructions on the paint and primer carefully before beginning.

Prime the surface to be painted with 2 LIGHT coats of SELF ETCHING primer.


When your primer is dry, you are ready to spray your FIRST basecoat color. I did a total of 3 basecoats allow 8-10minutes in between coats. When you are done your desired coats, let paint dry.


After you have allowed proper drying time for your basecoat, you are ready for clear coat. I did a total of 3 clear coats allowing 10-15minutes in between each coat until I found a proper paint match i was happy with.

Allow your clearcoat to dry properly before you continue.

After allowing your product to dry thoroughly, you are now ready for tape removal. Again i used my hobby knife to lightly score the edge around the turn indicator bowl so no more paint get removed than I would want to.
carefully remove all your tape SLOWLY being sure you do not remove the chrome finish underneath

This is what it should look like at this step.


YOU ARE NOW READY FOR REASSEMBLY
Again preheat your oven to 200F. When you oven temperature is preheated. Fit the lens back onto the housing but DO NOT to to push the clips together. Just fit it on so it stays. Place it back in the oven for 15 Minutes. This will again soften the factory sealant so you can push you lens into the housing far enough for the plastic clips to catch and hold it on.
When your fiftenn minutes is up, tak eyour light out, move it to your soft working surface and quickly but carefully put pressre on the lens pushing it and the housing together. be sure all three clips snap back into place. If you cant get it clipped together within 5 minutes. place the light back in the oven and start this step over until the clips snap into place securely. Turn off your oven when you are satisfied that all clips are secured.

While the housing and lens is still mildly warm. take you silicone and injecting it all the way around the light where the housing and lens meet being VERY CAREFUL not to get any silicone on the front of the lens itself. make sure there are NO spaces that go unfilled. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP in this whole process. An unproper reseal will casue fogging problems in the rain. I used a silicone and applies white but goes clear when it is fully dry.


When your silicone is completely dry. YOU ARE DONE! replace your bulbs you removed earlier and reinstall the lights back on the car. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

FINAL PRODUCT


Repeat process for other headlight.
GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN!

-Dave
 
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Good write-up. Reps as soon as I can!!

One question - about how long, start to finish, per light?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It would only let me put 16 photos per post so i had to break it up into two... hope it helps eveyone
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Good write-up. Reps as soon as I can!!

One question - about how long, start to finish, per light?
Depends on how many time u put it back and forth in oven...paint drying times and coats...took me about 3-3.5 hours start to finish...if i used krylon fusion black wouldn't need primer and all that...i would say best case 1.5 hours....but prime paint clear for exact match 3-5 hours dependig on products and conditions...well worth it though. You could probably do both if you baked one light at a time and got to the stage where both r prepped for pair then spray them at the same time...take about 4 hours id say if it were done that way...maybe 2-3 with krylon fusion
 
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quick question...when i did my headlights, i was able to remove the silver surround from the headlight base...saves a step in taping:

 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
quick question...when i did my headlights, i was able to remove the silver surround from the headlight base...saves a step
Taping that bowl probably took the same amount of time to take the chrome housig out...it was the turnn indicator that was difficult,.another optional step.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
AWESOME! :rep:

So if i'm using a Krylon plastic paint, I won't need primer? My Caliber is black so I want to go with black headlights. Anyone know how many coats should be good, or am I playing this one by ear?
I would do atleast 3 but make sure you prep the surface properly...prep wipes can be obtained from any autoparts or autopaint store...that's how i did my wife's explorer
 
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