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Just finished installing a wiring harness.Total time was around 40min, not rushing.

My tip is in regards to the DC power cable routing to the battery. I ran the cable underneath the black roof trim from the rear to the front of the car and into the engine compartment. No tools were needed as you can do it with your fingers.
A couple of ty wraps in the engine compartment and all is secure. The cable is not seen at all and is protected the whole way.

Hopefully this helps someone doing an install.

Cheers

Dale:Racing:
 

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Just finished installing a wiring harness.Total time was around 40min, not rushing.

My tip is in regards to the DC power cable routing to the battery. I ran the cable underneath the black roof trim from the rear to the front of the car and into the engine compartment. No tools were needed as you can do it with your fingers.
A couple of ty wraps in the engine compartment and all is secure. The cable is not seen at all and is protected the whole way.

Hopefully this helps someone doing an install.

Cheers

Dale:Racing:
Thanks for the tip! But I can't understand exactly how I can do this........would you please explain a little bit more (or a picture will be very very helpful).

Thanks!

P.S: Any other ideas on how I can run a power line from the battery to the back for my trailer wiring kit?
 

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Thanks for the tip! But I can't understand exactly how I can do this........would you please explain a little bit more (or a picture will be very very helpful).

Thanks!

P.S: Any other ideas on how I can run a power line from the battery to the back for my trailer wiring kit?
Read this article in our Knowledge Base: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=5202
 

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That's exactly where I started learning about this :) it's a great article and has lots of information. However, nothing's mentioned about how to run a power line from battery to the back except for a red/blue wire which no one has confirmed if its a live power line or not.

Any ideas?
 

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That's exactly where I started learning about this :) it's a great article and has lots of information. However, nothing's mentioned about how to run a power line from battery to the back except for a red/blue wire which no one has confirmed if its a live power line or not.

Any ideas?
The easiest install is with the Mopar trailer harness. It has all the info you need to do the install, and it doesn't require any modifications to the existing wiring. If you use any other harness, relays and other stuff have to be used so the TIPM doesn't shut off your tail lights. The Mopar instructions will show you how to route the wires the most efficient way.
 

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The easiest install is with the Mopar trailer harness. It has all the info you need to do the install, and it doesn't require any modifications to the existing wiring. If you use any other harness, relays and other stuff have to be used so the TIPM doesn't shut off your tail lights. The Mopar instructions will show you how to route the wires the most efficient way.
Thanks!

But I have already bought an after market kit (with T-connectors)....it's te same as those sold at e-trailers...they even have a video for installation (on the page for 2009 caliber kit in e-trailers)....but they route the power line under the car (same as mopar trailer kit). I do not have a hoist to work under the car; That where I'm stuck :(
 

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Thanks!

But I have already bought an after market kit (with T-connectors)....it's te same as those sold at e-trailers...they even have a video for installation (on the page for 2009 caliber kit in e-trailers)....but they route the power line under the car (same as mopar trailer kit). I do not have a hoist to work under the car; That where I'm stuck :(
Just so I make myself clear, the only harness that works without issue on these cars is the Mopar one. Any others will cause the TIPM to shut off the tail lights. They will not come back on without a reset and removal of the harness connections. The only way to make aftermarket harnesses work is with relays wired into the circuits.

As far as getting under the car, drive it up on a curb. You can also route into the hatch area by the spare tire and then follow the other cables that are under the carpet along the doors, then through the floor grommet under the gas pedal for the A/C drain.
 

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Just so I make myself clear, the only harness that works without issue on these cars is the Mopar one. Any others will cause the TIPM to shut off the tail lights. They will not come back on without a reset and removal of the harness connections. The only way to make aftermarket harnesses work is with relays wired into the circuits.
Actually NAPA seems to have a unit with all of the relays (actually optically isolated solid state switching circuits) built into a sealed module. Tap into the lighting circuits - only a few mA from them. The circuitry from the module gets the trailer lighting power directly from the battery and drives the trailer lights independently of the car's OEM TIPM controlled lighting circuits.
 

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Just so I make myself clear, the only harness that works without issue on these cars is the Mopar one. Any others will cause the TIPM to shut off the tail lights. They will not come back on without a reset and removal of the harness connections. The only way to make aftermarket harnesses work is with relays wired into the circuits.

As far as getting under the car, drive it up on a curb. You can also route into the hatch area by the spare tire and then follow the other cables that are under the carpet along the doors, then through the floor grommet under the gas pedal for the A/C drain.
Thank you very much! :)

Both of the solutions look really good! I'll check to see which one easiest for me and route the wire!

About the wiring kit, as DKazoroski said, the module that I have right now claims to be designed in a way that it draws very little current (even less than relays) to make sure the on board computer does not sense any thing unusual. They call it Modulite technology.........
BUT I can only say it work when I see it working! I'll let you know if it works or not.....I hope it does; cus the mopar one is 2 times more expensive :(
 

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OK!

I installed it last night and towed with it today no problems!
CONCLUSIONS:
1-Routing the power wire is much easier from the under body.
2-Driving up a curb can work as good as a hoist!
3-To route the power cable, follow the instructions prepared for MOPAR KIT available as PDF in their website.
4-Modulite Technology works with sensitive computer controllers and puts a very very unnoticeable load (in order of lighting a small led-much less than a relay) on the original circuits.
5-Kits with modulite are about 50$ (30-40% of the Mopar) available everywhere (e-trailer, napa, hitch-web(for Canadians)).
6-You should buy about 25ft of SPLIT LOOM from Princess Auto (or Harbor Freight) if using the after market kit because it does not come with any protection for wires.
7-Watch the video prepared by e-trailer (go to "buy wiring kit" section and find the product for dodge caliber 2008, the video will show up!) it's very helpful!

THANK YOU EVERYBODY WITH YOUR HELPFUL TIPS!

I'm so happy now :b1:
 
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