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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got around to installing the header we got off Ebay last month... Allocated a morning to do the job, parked the car in place last night so it was nice and cool to the touch this morning.
Step one, jack stands. Doesn't have to be way up in the air, in fact, you only want it as high as it needs to be, you'll be doing things above and below throughout the project. To high and you'll have trouble doing the above stuff.

After removing the engine cover and the top of the heat sheild (10mil), here's what you'll see...




This has to come out! You'll have to remove 6 bolts (13 mil) from the top side along with two nuts (14 mil) on studs in the upper corners. At the bottom, there are four nuts that hold the converter on. I recomend disconection the O2 sensor lead now too. The exhaust itself need not be removed, it'll hang and move where needed thanks to it's rubber hangers (Thanks David!). I had to beat the cast manifold free with a 2x2 and a rubber mallet. Once free it came out with little trouble. Little, not none mind you, there's a little bugger in there waiting to make this task a little harder than it has to be, but there's no way around it. There's a pressed in 'stud/bolt' that is part of a support bracket at the bottom of the manifold. The bracket is also part of a bushing the the axel passes through, so removing it isn't in the equation, you'll have to mess with it in place. Since it's a 12 mil bolt on the top, I simple put a wrench on it and twisted till it came loose and removed it. Took a while and wasn't all that easy, but it came free at last. Once all that's done, you'll see this...



A comparison between the cast manifold and the header...

After checking the metal gaskets to be sure they were in good shape, I installed the header, it pretty much falls in place...






I had to reuse the stud I took out earlier as the header didn't have a long enough bolt, no big deal. Reconect the O2 sensor and disconect the battery (if you hadn't already) for 20 minutes so the computer takes new readings when you start it up the first time.

All done! Took my time through the whole project, even gave the engine cover a much needed bath. Started about 8:30 am and was in the shower cleaning up by 11! Other than a T-bucket I built a few years ago it was the easiest header install ever!
 

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do you know why the stock one is broken in the middle? mine was broken too
:confused:

did YOU feel a difference? i think i feel a little better handling
:)
 

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Nice write up and pics, Mike. I'm giving you reps for that. I wouldn't mind putting one on Callie O'Mallie, but don't have the dough for one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·


do you know why the stock one is broken in the middle? mine was broken too
:confused:

did YOU feel a difference? i think i feel a little better handling
:)
I can only guess it's for heat expansion. Anytime you have iron parts that experince the heat the exhaust manifod does, it'll need some gaps and whatnot here and there. Right off the bat I noticed a little snappier /smoother excelleration and easier general drivability. Now we'll see if the wife can coax more than 40 miles per gallon out of it! We picked up the genuine Mopar Performance header off Ebay for $140 delivered!
 

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Nice write up!! I sure wish I could do headers in mine, damn Maniverter!!!!!!!!:smiledown:
 

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glenn, why don't you?



40mpg!?
damned... lol i'd be happy to reach 25 mpg
 

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NIce Right up man, reps for dat!!! And REP FOR Ebay :)
 

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reps for the pics and installing it on your own. i had no clue how to do it, paid someone 20 dollars to put it in for me. lol.
$20 sounds like a steal to me for having that done. Reps for a great presentation and pics. Well done! :smileup:
 

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Heck yeah, if I had the money for one, I'd gladly pay someone twenty bucks to do it for me. Sounds about like a seven dollar per hour labor rate. Can't beat that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Heck yeah, if I had the money for one, I'd gladly pay someone twenty bucks to do it for me. Sounds about like a seven dollar per hour labor rate. Can't beat that!
If I knew anyone, who'd I'd trust near my car with a wrench, that'd do it for $20, then I'd have them do it too! That was a deal, no matter how you look at it!:smileup:
 

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glenn, why don't you?
Because the AWD Calibers don't have headers, they have whats called a maniverter, no upgrades for it.
 

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Hey Glenn, can you post a picture of that maniverter? I'm curious as to what it looks like.
 

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Hey Glenn, can you post a picture of that maniverter? I'm curious as to what it looks like.
I did a quick search and couldn't come up with anything, I recall mouser posting a diagram of one a while back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Hey Glenn, can you post a picture of that maniverter? I'm curious as to what it looks like.
It's basically a big fat version of the cast manifold. On an All Wheel Drive Caliber, the rear wheel drive output shaft travels down the under body tunnel that a front wheel drive version uses for the exhaust system. (The AWD exhaust travels off to one side and down a smudge.) The output shaft itself takes up the space the FWD has its catalytic converter. The maniverter is a combination manifold/converter with an alternate exit point to clear the output shaft. It's why no front wheel drive exhaust parts fit an all wheel drive Caliber. I guess, if someone had the time, energy, resources and money, they could build a custom header with a standard converter in place. It'd need the properly placed O2 sensors and whatnot too. Really not worth the effort.

(diagram ah la Mouser)



No mileage gains noted from the first tank after install. Solid 30 mpg for at the pump gallons/miles calculations.
 

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Turk, in the first photo you have the car standing on jack stands. But it doesn't look like you placed them in the factory recommended locations. What part of the under body is supporting the car?
 

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Great post, I love the honeycomb grille BTW. and 40 MPG!!! WHAT! can I borrow your wife?
 
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