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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 2007 caliber, I just noticed today that my hatch will not open, i pull the handle and i get nothing, i unlock my car and all the other doors are open! it won't budge, i tried everything i can think of! help me out
 

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Do you have power locks?

If so, does activating it cause a noise in the rear door?

If not, then current is not going through to the lock.

In either case, it's possible that the actual latch mechanism, on wich the power lock and the actual handle pull, might be disconnected from the actual lock.

On my GMC Safari, I once smalled the rear hatch a bit hard and it had made a long metal stick, pulling on one side of the door (it had two side-mounded latches) to pull out of it's socker.

To fix that, I had to dismantle the door inside panels from inside the truck. A failing U-ring was the cause of the rod disconnecting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
when i unlock the car, it makes a noise, but not the same noise as if it were actually unlocking. Thing is, my caliber doesn't have the key hole in the back, so its all power locks to unlock it. so it must be the locking mechanism, would that be under warrenty?
 

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At least you came back to report resolution so reps to you!
 

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fixed the problem! after taking the whole back cover of the hatch off, looked at the cable going down to the latch, it was broken, and ripped from the handle, i replaced the handle! good thing it was under warrenty!
Did the dealer fix it for you uder warranty or you did it yourself. I know that if you tamper with your car you will end up loosing your warranty on most stuff. I think you have to be careful what you do on the car while its still unda warranty
 

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I have the same problem with our caliber. As well as several other problems, I've come to the conclusion that this car is a piece of #[email protected]#. We've had this car in for repairs far more than any other vehicle we have owned. Will never buy another Dodge. Had to replace the battery after two years, had it flood out for no apparent reason and washed the cylinders so clean that the motor just spun when you turned the key, the brakes have squealed since new, and on and on...no longer under warranty, of course, so still haven't figured out the rear hatch problem. Junk.
 

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I have the same problem with our caliber. As well as several other problems, I've come to the conclusion that this car is a piece of #[email protected]#. We've had this car in for repairs far more than any other vehicle we have owned. Will never buy another Dodge. Had to replace the battery after two years, had it flood out for no apparent reason and washed the cylinders so clean that the motor just spun when you turned the key, the brakes have squealed since new, and on and on...no longer under warranty, of course, so still haven't figured out the rear hatch problem. Junk.
glad you made your first post a rant..
 

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well..dang I have had nothing but good things to say about dodge..the last one had over 220 thousand miles on it and I still sold it for 3000 bucks . and thats one of the reasons I bought this caliber.. I'd prolly fix that hatch and smile when I got it done. and Batteries are cheap to replace I get mine at walmart . brakes can be adjusted.
 

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Ditto on that! You should have come here first. You probably could have gotten a lot more help than your dealer provided.
X3! I bet you can go to every car site forum that talks about Dodge Calibers, and you'll find thetinman72fl has left his one post rant.:doh:
 

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He's anti Dodge (Mopar). I think he goes on youtube and post, Dodge (Mopar) is a piece of poop (cleaned up) on every Dodge (Mopar) video.

Anyway, 2 years of life for a factory battery is normal.

The post above his told how to fix the hatch latch problem.
 

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My hatch won't unlock either, help

Hey Guys, Need some help. My hatch stopped unlocking today. I saw in the thread that one person had a wire come loose. I don't know if that is what is wrong with mine and I don't know how good an idea it is for me to start taking the door apart. I think the powertrain is the only thing still under warrantee (37K). So why didn't they put a key hole or pull thingy in the top of the door like all normal cars? Any suggestions besides taking the car to my dealer which promises to be a money pit??? Thanks
 

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DIM (Do It Myself) hatches, latches, and thingy's

Hello everyone. I finally figured out how to get the back hatch open even while the electronic locks (both on the drivers door and key fob) failed to unlock the hatch. And you can forget taking the hatch paneling off until the door is open, since the two main screws holding the panel on are only accessible with the door open. Before I go into the following instructions, I will disclaimer that I would only suggest going to the extreme of troubleshooting this problem yourself if you are out of warrantee and short on cash like me. If not, just take it to the dealer.

1.) Get inside the back of the car. I would suggest folding down the rear seats to make yourself comfy. May want to throw a blanket down too. I know this is already sounding bad.
2.) Pull open the boom box thingy no one ever uses (okay maybe some people do).
3.) There is a hole about an inch in diameter with a wire running through it leading from the back of the boom box. It is a dark hole with access, though not easy, to both the door latch mechanism and the automatic (or not so automatic in my case) lock/unlocking solenoid thingy.
4.) Shine a small flash light at an angle such that you light up the inside bottom of the panel. One of those keychain flashlights is perfect. You may be able to also use the flashlight on the interior roof of the car now above your head. You should see a cable wire with a pall at the end near the middle much like you would see at the end of your bike brakes. That is you latch mechanism. For now, forget about that, because until the door is unlocked, it is useless.
5.) A few inches to the right of this and a bit lower is a white plastic knob. This is the lock/unlock solenoid thingy. Use a screwdriver or similarly long object to push the knob down with a screwdriver an 1/2" or so to unlock the door.
6.) If the problem was just the locking/unlocking solenoid thingy, you should be able to jump out of the car and use the hatch handle to pull open the hatch.
7.) If it still doesn’t open, the latch mechanism may need some manual help from the inside. Jump back into the car and look at the latch mechanism again (cable thingy with ball at end). This should move when you use the handle on the outside of the car (will need someone else to do it while you are inside looking). If it does not move when someone pulls the handle, then the handle may need to be replaced. You can move it from the inside with a right sweeping motion with a long skinny screwdriver. Just be careful since there is a lot of wiring in there you don't want to damage.
8.) So by now, you should know if the problem was a solenoid or latch handle. If the door still doesn’t want to open, the latch tooth may just be jammed due to a foreign object or misalignment of something. Try pushing and pulling the hatch to loosen it and go through the procedure again.

If you got the hatch open, don’t go shutting the hatch or you will have to go through that mess again. Regardless of whether it was the handle, solenoid, or latch mechanism, you are going to need to get that panel off to make sure and to replace the part.

1.) With the hatch open, look at the base of the door for two silver screws. Take them off.
2.) Swing the boom box down again and unscrew the four black screws.
3.) The only thing holding the panel now is 6 panel latch thingy’s. Starting from the bottom of the door, pull evenly at different points with steady pressure to pull the panel off. Keep in mind that the paneling near the window overlaps this panel piece, so don’t go too hard and fast or you will take off a lot more than you need to and possibly damage something. The two latches near the window will require you grabbing the paneling at the base of the windshield.
4.) Once you have it off, you will need to disconnect the boom box wire which is the only thing preventing the panel from dropping to the ground. Support the panel so that you don’t damage this. It will help if someone is there to help you unplug it.
5.) With the panel off, you have a much better view of everything. Try using the handle to make sure the latch mechanism works well and the unlock button on the drivers door or you key fob to see if the solenoid is working (white knob should move). If both are now working as was in my case, then I don’t know what to tell you.

Once everything was apart, everything was back to working again. I guess caliber just needed some attention. I also noticed some of the plastic coating on the latch tooth coming off, so I cut the hanging piece just in case this was catching on something and jamming the latch. I will go ahead and leave the panel off a few days to make sure the problem doesn’t come back. If the problem returns, I will just be looking at the cost of the part rather than the over priced labor I was sure to get charged at the dealer. And that is if they could have even figured out what was wrong. You can tell I have had a few bad experiences with my local Dodge dealerships. Hope this helps and sorry for all of the layman talk of thingy’s, latches and hatches! I hope no one else has this problem. While you are in there, I would also suggest lubricating the mechanical parts well.
 

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Update

Great news for my car. But first the update. As mentioned in my above post, the gate lock started working after the panel was removed. But I did not put the panel right back on. I wanted to wait awhile just incase the problem came back and sure enough it did. I looked on the internet and called local dealers for pricing on a new locking mechanism (liftgate / hatch lock motor / solenoid part # 4589176AB). The part ranged in prices from $85 - $115. I also tried salvage yards, but none had a caliber. While talking to one of the local Chrysler dealerships I had not yet worked with (we have three), he suggested I contact the dealership I purchased the car from to make sure that I did not have an underwritten plan separate from Chrysler. Sure enough, found out I had gotten “preferred” coverage up to 75K with Zurich during my purchase. So even though I was at 37K, I was covered. In fact, the coverage covers everything from power train to electrical, etc. The only catch was that there is a $100 deductible. So I took the car in to the third dealership and they made sure that my diagnosis was correct. They went above and beyond the good customer service they had given be thus far by offering to call Chrysler to see if they would cover the repair since I was just barely out of my 36K Chrysler warrantee. Chrysler agreed, so $0 out of my pocket. They even offered free shuttle service during the repair which is not offered at the other two dealerships. This was a big help since we are a single car family. Best yet, I now have a new dealership that has great customer service. Not surprising, the other two dealerships were on the hack list by Chrysler while this one was not. It is sad that so many dealers area loosing the franchise and many good people will loose their jobs, but I am glad that Chrysler picked the best of the three dealerships to keep. So Cali is back in one piece and working great! :Racing:
 

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Thanks for the update. reps!!!
 
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