Yes, the rotor should be smooth and flat. You need to get the front end alignment checked for the tire wear. You may have worn suspension parts and need to make sure that the shop you go to has a COMPETENT alignment tech that will inspect it for you.
Grinding/Rubbing Sound turning left
My tire was low on air... 20 lb instead of 32.
I filled it up.
Some days later I started to hear a rubbing sound just after letting the in-laws drive it for a day.
Breaks or no breaks, high speed or low, I get a grinding rubbing sound from my front left wheel well.
I took the wheel off.
Three things were odd to me.
1. a clean spot on the shock arm. (perhaps the wheel was rubbing there)
2. tire tread severely worn on the inside tread only.
3. deep, thick pit on the inside of the rotor. Almost as wide as a dime, almost as thick as a dime. The rotor should be flat and smooth right?
I filled it up.
Some days later I started to hear a rubbing sound just after letting the in-laws drive it for a day.
Breaks or no breaks, high speed or low, I get a grinding rubbing sound from my front left wheel well.
I took the wheel off.
Three things were odd to me.
1. a clean spot on the shock arm. (perhaps the wheel was rubbing there)
2. tire tread severely worn on the inside tread only.
3. deep, thick pit on the inside of the rotor. Almost as wide as a dime, almost as thick as a dime. The rotor should be flat and smooth right?
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
As for your rotor, how's your brake pads? That seems like an awfully odd wear mark for low pads.
Rotors should definitely be smooth. I got into the habit of checking my rotors weekly after I didnt spot 3 rocks jammed in my Wranglers calipers, costing me 2 new rotors, 2 new calipers and brake pads. :i_rolleyes:
Let us know what you find!
Rotors should definitely be smooth. I got into the habit of checking my rotors weekly after I didnt spot 3 rocks jammed in my Wranglers calipers, costing me 2 new rotors, 2 new calipers and brake pads. :i_rolleyes:
Let us know what you find!
I used to hear a grinding sound (expecially turning left) when I had the power steering fluid leak... just to be sure check the fluid level
After re-reading your post, this sounds exactly like a failed ball joint. I would have that checked as well. A failed ball joint results in improper tread wear on your tire (most noted on the inside most part of the tread), and also causes your tire to over-sway/pivot, resulting in contact with the shock tower/spring when turning.1. a clean spot on the shock arm. (perhaps the wheel was rubbing there)
2. tire tread severely worn on the inside tread only.
Definitely something you _don't_ want to be driving on m8. Get it serviced asap.
Picture of the wear
View attachment 7347
I turned the wheel and took a picture of it.
Sorry I didn't do this earlier.
View attachment 7347
I turned the wheel and took a picture of it.
Sorry I didn't do this earlier.
I think you have 2 separate issues. The rotor is probably damaged from a stone getting wedged between the rotor and caliper. Been there. All you can do is pull the brake assembly and see how much damage there is and repair using normal procedures. The tire rub could be do to the ball joint being bad.
I agree with Brad. You REALLY need to check your brakes. That rotor is trashed and needs to be replaced. Check you pads and replace them too.
Yeah, that looks almost like your control arm has been digging into your rotor. Any signs of wear on your control arm?
Check your ball joint, as it could be faulty.
Also agreed with Prop1 about something in the pads, as the inner most part of the rotor looks scored from debris of some sort stuck in your rear pad.
Good luck and keep us informed.!
Thanks for all the advice. Going to take it in to get serviced. I'll let you know what the damage is.
I have done brake work before and replaced rotors but I know nothing of ball joints.
I have done brake work before and replaced rotors but I know nothing of ball joints.
If it's the ball joint, I think it's almost as cheap to replace the whole lower control arm assembly due to the labor costs.
Front brakes - Metal on Metal. $496 + tax
Both control arms loose and outer tie rod. $1034 + tax
Wheel alignment: $90 + tax
Front struts leaking: $448 + tax
4 tires: $666 + tax
Service rear end brakes: $134 + tax
Total with tax: $3300
Estimated value of car the way it is: $4000
Both control arms loose and outer tie rod. $1034 + tax
Wheel alignment: $90 + tax
Front struts leaking: $448 + tax
4 tires: $666 + tax
Service rear end brakes: $134 + tax
Total with tax: $3300
Estimated value of car the way it is: $4000
Dude ! Are you in ZA ?
What is the estimated value after you spend 3300
whatever you raise the 4000 by is a discount off your bill
What is the estimated value after you spend 3300
whatever you raise the 4000 by is a discount off your bill
Those are things you never have done at the dealer once the warranty has expired. The bill would be 1/2 or less if you took the car to shops that specialize because they can offer the service with more options at 1/2 the price of the dealer.Front brakes - Metal on Metal. $496 + tax
Both control arms loose and outer tie rod. $1034 + tax
Wheel alignment: $90 + tax
Front struts leaking: $448 + tax
4 tires: $666 + tax
Service rear end brakes: $134 + tax
Total with tax: $3300
Estimated value of car the way it is: $4000
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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