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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy from Canada!
I have a 2009 with 1.8L engine, standard trans.
Engine runs fine for 2-3 minutes on highway. Engine stops. I leave it in gear coasting down highway. Turn key off and back on...good to go. It starts right up. Runs fine for....2-3 minutes. Repeat..repeat...repeat! Checked fuel pump, fuel pump wiring, TipM...bunch of stuff. Tell me what's wrong and I'll send you money! I need this car!
 

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I'm thinking SKREEM - security key chip is not being recognised.
Original Keys? Both the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm thinking SKREEM - security key chip is not being recognised.
Original Keys? Both the same.
I have only one key. I doubt it is original. Can you disable the SKREEM if even only temporary to test the theory? Where is SKREEM located? Tear it out if I can. The car is a plain Jane. Crank windows, no A/C. I wanted it this way to limit things that could go wrong. YIKES!!
 

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So only one key.
It will contain a SENTRY chip that needs to be recognised. The reader is in the column.

SKREEM - - Sentry Key REmote Entry Module

May be a synchronisation issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can start the car and it seems to idle fine for quite a while. It seems to only quit when driving at higher speeds. When it quits, it doesn't sputter. It's like the ignition is just shut off.
 

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It's impossible to say it's the BCM unless a proper diagnosis is done. Sounds like the locksmith is just guessing at it.

Honestly, it could be a whole host of things, but the first thing I thought of was whether you tried replacing the battery in the key fob. If that fails you can get weird issues like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for your reply. I don't have a fob. Just the key. Car does not have electric door locks or electric trunk opener. It is a plain car.I changed out the fender wall fuse/relay box. (who in the world thought that was a good place to put that?!) Tried a different TipM. Checked fuel pump pressure and electrical connection.
 

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What are the chances the ignition switch is flaky and cutting out on you while you drive?

Kinda sounds to me like a proper scan tool is needed to diagnose this...monitoring certain data PIDs to see if anything changes state (but shouldn't be) while driving. Ignition key status is one of those PIDs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What are the chances the ignition switch is flaky and cutting out on you while you drive?

Kinda sounds to me like a proper scan tool is needed to diagnose this...monitoring certain data PIDs to see if anything changes state (but shouldn't be) while driving. Ignition key status is one of those PIDs.
Thank you for your reply. I have wiggled and wriggled the key while driving it. Key is solid in ignition and only shuts off ignition when I fully rotate it.
 

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I have only one key. I doubt it is original. Can you disable the SKREEM if even only temporary to test the theory? Where is SKREEM located? Tear it out if I can. The car is a plain Jane. Crank windows, no A/C. I wanted it this way to limit things that could go wrong. YIKES!!
It's RFID so like NFC it has to be close. It's in the steering column.
How long have you had the car and when did this start happening?
On mine you can start the car but the lack of a chip cuts the motor after about 90 secs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's RFID so like NFC it has to be close. It's in the steering column.
How long have you had the car and when did this start happening?
On mine you can start the car but the lack of a chip cuts the motor after about 90 secs.
I have owned the car for a year. The problem started 4 months ago. I have left it with a mechanic who has tried many things with diagnostic tools. Cannot see an obvious error. If I idle the car, it seems to run just fine for extended periods. It's when I get out on the road that it shuts down. The nearest dealership is an 8 hour drive away, with the engine shutting down every 2-3 minutes.
 

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Howdy from Canada!
I have a 2009 with 1.8L engine, standard trans.
Engine runs fine for 2-3 minutes on highway. Engine stops. I leave it in gear coasting down highway. Turn key off and back on...good to go. It starts right up. Runs fine for....2-3 minutes. Repeat..repeat...repeat! Checked fuel pump, fuel pump wiring, TipM...bunch of stuff. Tell me what's wrong and I'll send you money! I need this car!
Please replace engine cam sensor because it's the only thing that make the car to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here's the latest development. 3 weeks agao, changed out cam pos sensor. Took for a drive and it ran for 7-8 miles before shutting down again. Drove it back to shop and it did not stall again. Last Thursday, mechanic raised back seat and ran scope while someone else drove. He had jumpered fuel pump. It ran flawlessly BUT...when he ran with it jumpered another way, it still ran flawlessly.
The common link for improved performance is....it is colder weather, now!!! Is it possible that a circuit board is overheating? Which one? ARGH!!! I will pay for solution and share it here.
 

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Gary - there are two


 

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One possibility is that you have a broken wire or a bad solder joint on a circuit board someplace. When the weather is cold metals shrink, so the two "sides" of the broken connection may move closer to each other, resulting in good contact and a running car. When it gets warmer out things start to expand, so the two sides may move slightly farther apart from each other...enough so that when the car heats up from running the two lose contact with each other.

Such a problem is really hard to diagnose...you basically need diagnostic equipment connected to the car running and collecting data at the moment when the failure occurs so you can try to pinpoint where the failure is occurring.
 
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