[Evil Tom]

Hey all
My cig. lighter stopped working so I checked 16 found it blown replaced it and it still does not work any suggestions?
I have read many of the other threads and the people never come back to report an end result.
I will come back with the end result whether it is a fixed outlet or a Molotov cocktail I will let you know. :smileup:

Tom

 

[Prop1]

There are 2 fuses. Can't remember what the other one is, but it's close by. There is a main fuse for multiple things, and then the sub fuse that is 16.

 

[Aleks]

Don't you also need to do a reset to turn a circuit back on ?

 

[Flyinghigh]

I'm with Aleks on this one. I'd try disconnecting both battery cables and hold them together for 10 minutes. This will reset the TIPM and unless that other fuse that Brad mentioned is blown, your lighter will probably work.

 

[Aleks]

Ordinarily something causes a fuse to blow. Any other circuit resetting the power would just blow the fuse again.
With the power outlet the most likely 'fault' was something plugged into it, so I'd go ahead and try the new fuse and reset.

 

[Prop1]

Don't you also need to do a reset to turn a circuit back on ?

I'm with Aleks on this one. I'd try disconnecting both battery cables and hold them together for 10 minutes. This will reset the TIPM and unless that other fuse that Brad mentioned is blown, your lighter will probably work.

When mine blew (both fuses) the reset wasn't required.

 

[Evil Tom]

I will try the "reset" but I gotta tell ya every time I have read
someone being told to pull the battery cables and put them together it never does anything.
seems to be the magic cure all advice.
having trouble with your rear window wiper, reset it!
having weird electrical issues, reset it!
your carpet won't stay in place, reset it!
back in 15 minutes.

 

[Evil Tom]

went down removed the cover, disconnected the battery, put the two wires together, cleaned up one of the terminals, did a little cleaning in the car, pulled and checked every single fuse and after 20 minutes hooked the battery back up and exactly the same no change.

 

[DKazoroski]

The "reset" is not a cure-all.

It can clear some faults that occur in the car's computer systems, by completely shutting them down and making them reboot from "cold" when you reconnect the battery.

Obviously, there are many fault conditions that are not directly computer related, and the "reset" won't cure these.

Since replacing the fuse and checking the others did not cure the problem, you'll need to do further checking.

First test - plug a known good device into the outlet and see if it works. If not, then you'll need to do some electrical troubleshooting.
We'll go there if you need to.

 

[Flyinghigh]

I'd just remove the lighter socket and get a new one. For some reason, yours is grounding when it shouldn't. Have you pulled it and checked the wires on the back of it?

 

[Prop1]

Fuse 16 is also for the sunroof 12V (sense line?), if you got it, the AC outlet (sense line?) and the rear wiper motor. There is also some interplay with the power inverter (fuse 12).

 

[Evil Tom]

things I have discovered, I went over to my brothers house to try my usb charger plug in his truck to see if it is "known good" and it is good so I explained to him what was happening and this is where the second set of eyes becomes important, with the hood open and the lid off of the TPM he saw that as soon as I turned the key in the ignition the fuse blew.
the rear window wiper has started acting, choppy? it goes in fits and starts.
I may have to take this to the dealer if they can fit me into their oh so busy schedule.

 

[CyberDashie]

I have had this problem since I got my car. Fuse number 12 blows every time I start my car, load or not. I have checked all of my fuses to no avail. Without fail, #12 blows when I start her up. I have tried putting it in while running and both work for a few minutes and then it blows again. Everything else works perfectly aside from the cigarette lighter and the charger port. It would be great if I could charge my phone and run my radar detector. I just don't feel like paying an arm and a leg at a stealership to get it checked out. Any thoughts?

 

[CyberDashie]

Okay. I find this rather odd. I just changed the fuse again (3 times). I changed the fuse with the car running and it works just as it had before. I plugged in my radar detector and it worked of course. Then I tried the accelerator and brakes to see if it would blow and it didn't. However, as soon as I touched the clutch pedal (less than 10% engaged) the fuse went. Anyone know why that might be?

 

[bigtsr]

https://techauthorityonlinedemo.extra.chrysler.com/service/repair/wiring/view/classic.htm

This site may help you.

 

[Prop1]

Okay. I find this rather odd. I just changed the fuse again (3 times). I changed the fuse with the car running and it works just as it had before. I plugged in my radar detector and it worked of course. Then I tried the accelerator and brakes to see if it would blow and it didn't. However, as soon as I touched the clutch pedal (less than 10% engaged) the fuse went. Anyone know why that might be?

Those should not be related. I suspect the previous owner had something aftermarket wired up and removed it and messed up some wiring that is now causing a feedback thru the TIPM.

 

[CyberDashie]

Maybe, but it was bone stock when I got it. Of course they could have removed mods, but even still. It makes no sense. The fuse always blows on startup and when replaced when running, apparently activation of the clutch does something to make it blow.

Thanks for that site. I will have to play around with it for a while, but nothing before 2010 shows up and mine is an 08. I know the caliber didn't really change much over the years, but still. At least I will learn more about the wiring. Thanks!

 

[bigtsr]

That's why I posted it .
I believe you'll find 99% of the info applies across the platform.
Fact is site covers all makes and I thought it would generally useful.

 

[CyberDashie]

Definitely! I agree on the 90% as well. The newer models got the updated cluster and bits here or there, but not really much else. Why fix something that's not broken? Well, aside from aesthetics. I'm pretty sure that's what Dodge went with on the newer Calibers.

 

[Prop1]

Maybe, but it was bone stock when I got it. Of course they could have removed mods, but even still. It makes no sense. The fuse always blows on startup and when replaced when running, apparently activation of the clutch does something to make it blow.

Thanks for that site. I will have to play around with it for a while, but nothing before 2010 shows up and mine is an 08. I know the caliber didn't really change much over the years, but still. At least I will learn more about the wiring. Thanks!

Total wiring can be found in the service manual and you can download a copy in our "Manuals" sub-forum.

I had a car once where a wire was getting pinched by the clutch pedal when it was pushed in. The previous owner had installed driving lights and removed them, but left the wiring. The wire had been getting pinched for sometime and the insulation finally wore thru and would short out the cig lighter that he had powered the lights from. I'd check that possibility. On that car the interior lights were also on that fuse, so it was obvious right away.