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Door Mirror - electrical operation

193 Views 6 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  672aq
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So I sourced and replaced a used one.
Neither side adjusts or folds to the control.
No fuse and I have disconnected the battery.
I am guessing the circuit fused when the mirror was ripped off exposing the wires.
Where do I look next?
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OMG! The first thing you'll want to do is install a steering wheel! Safety first!

馃榿 Backwards drivers...

Is this a BUS issue?

Is that drivers' side control bad? Source another from a junkyard and see what happens.

Maybe the switches just need to be unplugged from the circuit board then reinserted?
It was the passenger replaced. All was working well before. Did not want to start dismantling the other driver door. So do I need to access the switch to check for power?
The fact that both are not working suggests none. No fuse identifies as door mirror save the 10A fuse 21 heating mirror. I swapped that with another 10A slot, both clean fuses no breaks, and no difference. I have not observed any other circuit failure to guide to another slot.

BUS issue you mean TIPM reset more than just disconnect battery?
I can't remember if the doors/mirrors are even connected to the BUS - was just wondering out loud in case someone here knew.

One would need access to the driver's switches to find power, as everything should come from there, first. On that little pull handle area, pop off the little screw cover, remove the small StarDrive screw, then use a plastic wedge to pry the switches straight up. Easy peesy.

There are two (three?) plugs attached; I think there is a smaller plug for the mirrors. I've no idea which wire is power. Key should be in ACC position before checking for voltage.

The window switches are not soldered to the board, not really plugged into the board, but are just pushed into through-holes. Little bumps and wiggles can get them to lose contact. The internal switch contacts can burn up, too (happened on mine).

If the other switches (mirror) are assembled the same, I would check those first.

You've no junkyard Calibers to pull from?

Both sides with the same issue makes me think power to the driver switch assembly, too. Yet, I'm not sure if there is a separate power just for mirrors.
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SOLVED - It was a fuse #6 blown 10A
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Replacement is simple

The easiest thing to do on the whole car - three nuts and a plug, all where you can see and easily get to. 馃榿
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