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Any gems on this one worth sharing?
Fault been recurrent for 6 months now. Cam shaft sensor replaced, engine flushed and oil changed (5W 30), wiring checked etc. Dealerships at a loss as to what causing fault code . 2 separate stealerships visited both not able to fix. Chrysler/Fiat poor in customer relations not taking anything to do with this. Any help appreciated. Technically minded to a point - any specifics i may not understand can be passed on to dealership for them to try if anyone out there is willing to share. One dealer states ECU needs replaced - expensive - ouch - any comments appreciated.
Cheers
 

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Any gems on this one worth sharing?
Fault been recurrent for 6 months now. Cam shaft sensor replaced, engine flushed and oil changed (5W 30), wiring checked etc. Dealerships at a loss as to what causing fault code . 2 separate stealerships visited both not able to fix. Chrysler/Fiat poor in customer relations not taking anything to do with this. Any help appreciated. Technically minded to a point - any specifics i may not understand can be passed on to dealership for them to try if anyone out there is willing to share. One dealer states ECU needs replaced - expensive - ouch - any comments appreciated.
Cheers
Are you sure they replaced the correct camshaft position sensor? There are 2.
 

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What year is it? Are you also getting P000B?

My 2007 had to have the computer flash updated per a service bulletin that was released shortly after the car was made. Received both P000a and P000b. Changed oil and flashed updated it and no issues are it going on for 3 months.
 

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I have this fault code P000A which is camshaft solenoid slow response. I have everything done three to five oil changes solenoid replaced both of them and the camshaft position sensor wiring is good and everything pins out to be good up to the ECU.
Can any one help me. It still runs good tho.
 

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I have this fault code P000A which is camshaft solenoid slow response. I have everything done three to five oil changes solenoid replaced both of them and the camshaft position sensor wiring is good and everything pins out to be good up to the ECU.
Can any one help me. It still runs good tho.
I'm assuming the oil is clean, or at least not way beyond a change. The first thing to check is fuse 26. Chances are it has some corrosion on it, so clean it and re-install it. If that doesn't do it; then I have to ask if the negative battery cable was disconnected when the sensors were replaced? If not then the computer will not learn the new sensors. A quick way to fix that is to do a TIPM reset, Instructions found here: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=39192. After that, then it could be the camshaft phaser is shot.
 

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Well i checked fuse 26 good even replaced it. also did TIPM it is still a no-go. this thing is making me very mad.it has all new phasers to. the only thing I have not done is replace the ECU or the pick up screen for the oil pump which looks clean from what I can see. ? can you just replace the pick up screen with out replacing the whole oil pump?
 

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Well i checked fuse 26 good even replaced it. also did TIPM it is still a no-go. this thing is making me very mad.it has all new phasers to. the only thing I have not done is replace the ECU or the pick up screen for the oil pump which looks clean from what I can see. ? can you just replace the pick up screen with out replacing the whole oil pump?
Screen should not be an issue. What oil viscosity are you using. Anything higher than 5W20 can cause the code. The last thing to check is the CMP 1/1 CONTROL CIRCUIT HIGH RESISTANCE possibility. Have you downloaded a copy of the service manual in our "Manuals" section? The entire troubleshooting sequence can be found starting on page 9-7.
 

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I do not have a scan tool, to actuate the Camshaft 1/1 Position Solenoid control to the ON (100%) position. I am using 5-20w oil. I was told there is a screen inside the engine that can be clogged, if so were is it?

With the scan tool, actuate the Camshaft 1/1 Position Solenoid control to the ON (100%) position.

Using a 12 volt test light connected to 12 volts , check the (K76) CMP 1/1 Control circuit in the Camshaft 1/1 Position Solenoid harness connector.

NOTE: The test light should be illuminated and bright. Compare the brightness to that of a direct connection to the battery.
 

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The other option is to pull the connector (C2) from the PCM and the connector at the 1/1 camshaft position sensor, and use a meter to see what resistance you get from the PCM pin 57 to the 1/1 sensor pin 3. You should have little if any. If you get something higher than a few ohms; you likely have a damaged wire. There are several people that have had damaged wires in the main harness where it runs under the battery tray and into the inner fender.
 

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Ok I will check that and get back with you soon. I thank you Brad. If anything comes to mind please let me know. thank you again.
 

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well I think it is going to be the wire for the phaser bank 1.
ohms is like 00.2 to 00.5 it jumps
but why will it call out the 1/1 solenoid for?
 

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if the phaser is bad it have a fault code, but it is only calling the Camshaft 1/1 Position Solenoid slow response. but checked it it is good. anything eles?
 

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if the phaser is bad it have a fault code, but it is only calling the Camshaft 1/1 Position Solenoid slow response. but checked it it is good. anything eles?
You may have a bad PCM. I think you've done all you can do and the dealer is going to have to hook it up to their ScanGauge to pinpoint the exact cause.

In referring back to your earlier post about the oil screen. Since it mentions nothing about it in the service manual; that would not be your issue. If it was possible; then you would also be getting a P000B code, also. So sadly, I suspect the PCM is the cause.
 

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hey Brad. I have been sick sorry. Can i use a power probe 3 to ck actuate the Camshaft 1/1 Position Solenoid control to the ON (100%) position. if not everything checks out ok. this thing thing is making me very mad. I think i may just bow it up.
 

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the dealer has looked at it like 5 times and they tell me i need a new engine. that there is a screen between the block and head that could have gunk billed up in it. there telling me it is not ECU.
 

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the dealer has looked at it like 5 times and they tell me i need a new engine. that there is a screen between the block and head that could have gunk billed up in it. there telling me it is not ECU.
If you have warranty that will cover it; let them do what they want. If you don't, then I would definitely get another opinion. I see nothing in the service manual about a screen, and unless you've been using really bad oil and running it for 15,000 plus miles between changes, I hardly believe you have gunk. This sounds more like a dealer that isn't smart enough to find the real problem, so it's easier to make the car owner buy a new engine.
 

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My wife and I just bought a calber and when we are pulling away from a red light or stop sign the car takes off real slow and gradually gains speed. Anyone know what that could be
 

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Welcome to the ForumZ

More info would be helpful such tranny , mileage etc.
Sounds as if it may be in limp mode , get it to someplace who can check for codes stored.
 
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