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Do the subframes have bushings where they interface with the car, or is it just a solid connection there?

3K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  John Galt 
#1 ·
I'm replacing all the bushings on Caliber, I'll use polyurethane in some locations and spherical/heim bearings in other locations....no rubber bushings.

Question: are there bushings between the subframes and the body, or are they hard mounted?
 
#3 ·
I replace both front and rear sub frame myself brand new I bought all the nuts and bolts new from the dealership to do the job not one kit had bushing nor did the parts counter guy told me I needed them.It don't mean you can't do it the way you did and now that you did I wish I did the same as you but I'm fine with what I was able to do without paying$$$$ someone to do it for me.
 
#5 ·
I replace both front and rear sub frame myself brand new I bought all the nuts and bolts new from the dealership to do the job not one kit had bushing...
It seems that the front and rear subframes do not have bushings between the subframes and the unibody...which is good. I don't want them.

If there were subframe bushings on this car, I would have all metal replacements created to replace them.

I will replace all of the other bushings in the car with a mix of polyurethane and spherical bushings. I'd replace them all with spherical bushings only if I could find sphericals for every position...but I can't, so some of the positions will get polyurethane.
 
#6 ·
Any suggestions on bushing replacement? I'm putting coilovers on my 08 SXT. Didnt know you could get Polyurethane... I am doing the adjustable Stabilzer bar links and Godspeed MonoSS coilovers. Also replacing the Strut Bushings. MOPAR (on front) and some other company (for rear) I was going to do the MOOG blue ones for front but a guy on here said he had issues with them and they don't look to be the same size at all. Also, Should I change the bolts? I'm not even sure which bolts I would need.
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#7 · (Edited)
Any suggestions on bushing replacement?

I was going to do the MOOG blue ones for front

Also, Should I change the bolts?
There is no need to change bolts if they are not damaged. I use stock bolts on my Caliber race car and have never had an issue.

If you are attempting this work yourself, the most important thing is to get a high quality calibrated torque wrench, and make sure that you torque each bolt to the exact specs called for in the factory service manual. I suggest going through the factory service manual and writing down the torque specs for each suspension bolt on a cheat sheet and then using that during assembly.

Do not attempt this job without a good torque wrench.

Also on tools, this next tool while not critical, will cut several hours off the job. My race team declared this tool to be the MVP tool of the decade: Milwaukee M12 FUEL 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 3/8 in. Right Angle Impact Wrench (Tool-Only) 2564-20

Here is what I did on bushings for my car. Warning: my car is a dedicated race car, you may not need or want some of this for a daily driver:

New front control arms with spherical/polyurethane bushings already pressed in (it says SRT4, but they fit all Calibers): Caliber Performance Control Arms 2008-2009 Caliber SRT-4 / 07-12 Compass / 07-12 Patriot

Moog blue polyurethane front and rear swaybar bushings. These come in several sizes to match the different swaybars that come with the various editions of the caliber. Make sure to order the correct size. These fit my car perfectly, work well, and have survived over 1,000 miles on track with no issues or noise. These are a great and cheap upgrade for a slight handling boost.

Rear camber arms with spherical bushings (It says Lancer, but it fits Caliber perfectly): Spherical Bearing Adjustable Rear Camber Arm Kit For Mitsubishi Lancer Sliver

Rear toe arms with spherical bushings (It says Lancer, but it fits Caliber perfectly): Mitsubishi Lancer (CY4A) 2008-16 Adjustable Rear Toe Arms With Spherical Bearings

Nolothane rear trailing arm polyurethane bushings: Nolathane REV102.0006 Nolathane Trailing Arm Bushings | Summit Racing

Siberian rear lower control arm polyurethane bushings: https://siberianbushing.com/catalog/DODGE/USA/CALIBER/PM/2008

You should also replace at least the front and rear engine mounts. If your car is for street use with occasional track use, I would use the stock engine mounts and plan on replacing them every 15-20k miles. New Caliber owner - a few technical questions

I used a front camber bolt kit to dial in more camber. Again, my car is a dedicated race car, you may not need or want this on a daily driver: https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K90474-Cam-Bolt-Kit/dp/B000HPQ1EW/

While I had the entire suspension torn apart, I took the front knuckle to a machine shop and had new wheel bearings pressed in, and I replaced the rear wheel bearings. Front bearings are press in, so you need a machine shop (unless you have a press in your garage). Rear bearings are an assembly that you can bolt in easily while you have the suspension disassembled.

I replaced my struts and springs with the SRT4 struts and springs. This was very easy to do compared to putting in coilovers and trying to get them adjusted correctly, but then, I was not trying to get to a particular "perfect lowered/dropped look" that I had mind, I just wanted to get the car somewhat lower and somewhat stiffer, and this is the easy button: Standard Caliber vs SRT4 Caliber suspension springs...

I also put in an SRT4 strut tower brace: DC Sports Front Upper Strut Tower Bar 07-10 Dodge Caliber 2.0L 2.4L Non-Turbo | eBay

After all of the above changes, the handling was transformed. My drivers have much more confidence pushing the car deep into the corners and we gained 6-8 seconds a lap (on a 2.5 mile circuit) compared to our stock suspension.

Our next step is to go with lightweight Mitsubishi Lancer EVO X MR BBS 18x8.5 wheels. They will bolt right in, look great and are more than 7 pounds lighter for each wheel vs Caliber SXT wheels. This will save 28 pounds of unsprung weight and will significantly improve handling and acceleration.
 
#13 ·
Any idea what is going on here? Only youtube vid I can find of godspeed coilovers on a Caliber. 2007 DODGE CALIBER GODSPEED COILOVERS
I am not sure what question you are asking about the video. The video has basically no content. It looks like he has an extra long sway bar end link and is going to connect it somewhere?

This is the guy that told me to get adjustable sway bar end links which I did.
If you are going to significantly lower your Caliber, then you might need adjustable swaybar end links to avoid significant pre-load on your sway bars. Google 'sway bar preload' for details.

My Caliber is about 2 inches lower than stock and I run stock end links. I have a small amount of preload, but it is not a problem (at least not that I notice).
 
#19 ·
Thank you John Galt for the wonderful insight and knowledge you have shared. I was going down the rabbit hole of wanting to make my daily driver a rally ready race car with adjustable control arms, end links, coilovers, bushings, sway bar, strut towers, and anything else I could throw at it to make it look and feel like a rally car. Keep in mind my car is a fwd, 5 spd, 2.0L, naturally aspirated, lowest trim available for 2011 with 138k miles on it already. I basically just want a more enjoyable and fun daily driver.
I think going the route you suggested with preloaded KYB shocks and struts and possibly just changing some bushings that needed to be replaced anyway, and saving my money for a newer, better car with less miles would be my better choice.
 
#21 ·
I don't think there are any pre-loaded struts that will lower the car.

I suggest you call KYB, tell them you have a 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT-4 and ask them if they make an SRT4 specific pre-loaded strut (with springs, buffers, etc.). My guess is no, but it is worth a call.

Failing that, you can just buy some lowering springs and put them on the car: H&R Lowering Springs, 07-12 Caliber / SRT-4

If you want to do it "right" you can pair those springs with the factory SRT4 struts and shocks: Mopar OEM Strut Set, 08-09 Caliber SRT-4
 
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