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Hi All,
I'm hoping to hear some thoughts about a CVT situation that happened to me this morning. On my way to work today around 6 am, I started to hear a whining sound (similar to this sound... https://youtu.be/VNkEZt0mr-4) about 4 miles in to my drive. It got higher pitched as I accelerated, but I was never going over 45 mph because I was in town and that was the speed limit. I thought the car was driving normal otherwise but now that I think about it the RPMs may have been running high. I shifted into neutral and the sound went away, I shifted back into drive and the sound came back. I continued to drive for another mile or two until the transmission overtemp light came on. I don't know if it went into "limp mode" because I immediately took my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop on the side of the road and turned off the car. After about 5 minutes I started the car back up, turned around and headed home with the car acting completely normal. I came home and searched for the problem and came across this forum.

Reading through this and a couple of other threads mentioning wiring issues causing CVT problems made me think to look under the drivers side of the dash for loose wires and I maybe found a loose connection going into the white connector that is attached to the brake pedal arm (I have no idea what that part is called). I don't know if this connection has anything to do with anything, but when I pushed it in it did seem to seat a little better and I thought I felt a slight click. Anyways, I went back out and drove about 40 miles, 5 miles of city driving to the freeway then 15 miles on the freeway going 70 mph before turning around and heading back the same way. The car was driving normal the whole way... no weird sounds and no CEL or transmission temp lights came on.

The car is a 2007 Caliber SXT with CVT that my wife and I have owned since July of 2006 and it has 124k miles on it. We've done most of the normal servicing, regular oil changes and changed out the spark plugs a year or so ago when our garage recommended it. No real problems with it other than the oil pan gasket was changed out last month due to a slow leak from the pan. Also, the CEL has been coming on and going off for the last 3 or 4 months. The code that shows up is P0420 and it stays on for a day or two then goes off on its own. Today is the first day I've had any issues hearing this sound or with the transmission light illuminating.

So after my long winded backstory, I do have a couple of questions. Could that wiring harness that I think my have been loose caused the problem with the whining sound and the overtemp light coming on? I'm hoping there is nothing wrong with the transmission itself since the problem seemed to resolve itself, is this an unreasonable thought? What's the best way to diagnose the problem since it's no longer doing it and it didn't trip a CEL light or log any other fault codes? I could take it to a garage but they won't be able to tell me anything since its not doing it anymore, or is there something specific I should be asking them to do? Is the intermittent P0420 code more serious than I originally thought and causing problems with the CVT? Sorry to sound so ignorant and needy, I just really don't know what to do other than keep driving it until it happens again, and just cross my fingers that it doesn't. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the ForumZ


P0420 is related to the exhaust system and could be
the 02 (2) sensors failing both can be replaced.
It also can be related to a failing catalytic converter
which can also be replaced (not cheaply) , the funny noise
could be from the catalytic becoming plugged up.
 

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Welcome to the ForumZ


P0420 is related to the exhaust system and could be
the 02 (2) sensors failing both can be replaced.
It also can be related to a failing catalytic converter
which can also be replaced (not cheaply) , the funny noise
could be from the catalytic becoming plugged up.
Thanks for the reply. I spoke with the mechanic at the garage I normally take my cars to and he said he will start by diagnosing the CEL and go from there. The check engine light has been on since Friday so I need to finally get that addressed.
 

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Wondering if I could get some thoughts from the community. My son has 2010 caliber, se, 2.0, cvt. On a long drive, after about 8 hours, the trans overheated. Not being a car kid, he immediately pulled over and called a tow. It went to a garage where they flushed the fluid and test drove it. They told him it was stuck in 2nd gear and he'd need a new tranny ($3500). He didn't get any codes from the mechanic. I couldn't afford that so I went and picked up his car and brought it home. Since I've had it here, I'm seeing very little issue with it. It drives, shifts, etc. It'll do 80, goes through the gears, etc.

The one issue, or possible issue, I see, is that the shifting gear seems to be weak. The RPM's will rev to about 4500 and it will slowly accelerate, but not as quickly as you might expect. This happens at all speeds. If you try to push it hard, it will eventually get there, but not quickly. I'm not familiar with this and am wondering if it is a symptom of bigger problems to come? Should I just run it till it breaks? Or is it just that a 2.0 engine with a cvt transmission doesn't really have any umpf? This is the first time I'm driving the car as he lives out of town and I wasn't there when he got it.
 

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My 2007 Caliber has had the same whining and overheating issues as many have, but I found a fairly easy solution. I found a video on YouTube about this and the solution was to add an auxiliary transmission cooler. Me and a buddy of mine decided to do just that. He somehow had an older tranny cooler lying around. The plan was to tap into the hard line right after the stock tranny cooler and install the auxillary one. A fairly simple process, but with anything, adding more components can bring more issues. Since I was tapping into the closed system, I wanted to replace the fluid as well. We bought 9 quarts of CVT fluid (8 for the stock system plus 1 for the tranny cooler). First, we used the oil dipstick into the dealer service port for the tranny. This worked quite well, the current level actually fell within the safe zone on the oil dipstick. Now we have our base level. Next we cut the hard line, attached an extra hose and proceeded to empty the tranny fluid. We went ******* and just turned on the engine and let the car pump out the tranny fluid into a bucket. Approximately 5 quarts came out. I was hesitant to do it this way, but since the car wasn't moving, I felt it was an acceptable risk. The fluid was horrible! It was extremely dark and looked like used motor oil after not being changed for 20K miles. I decided that new fluid might just do the trick without the need for a cooler. Therefore, I elected to just refill and close it back up to see. If not, we have already tapped into the system, so now it will be just a quick release of the tube clamp and pull off the rubber tubing and install the cooler if we need to. I had considered doing a second flush, since only 5 quarts came out, but decided to see where this got me. Sure enough, we reconnected the hard line with about a 3 inch rubber tube and clamps, refilled to the prior dipstick level (measuring the expelled fluid to be sure we replaced with the same amount) and off for a test drive. IMMEDIATELY, I could tell the tranny was running MUCH better. Not only was the whine gone, but the car seemed to have a bit more power, especially on acceleration. Not a lot, but definitely noticeable. I intend to drive it through the winter and swap out the tranny fluid again in the spring, just to keep it fresh.

My take away, the Dodge recommendation that the CVT fluid doesn't need to be changed because it is a closed system is BS. I'm at 153K miles and this fluid was absolutely horrid. Provided I keep this car (quite a few other issues going on with it) I intend to change it out every 50K or less given the cooling issues. As for the auxiliary cooler, I don't see a need for it. Once I made an easy access spot to remove the fluid, it's as simple as pie to change it out. Sure, I'm not doing a full flush and fill, but replacing well over half the fluid really helped. It would take me less than 15 minutes to do another partial swap out too. This is a win in my book!
 

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Hopefully someone can help me. My 07 caliber r/t randomly one day on the way to work went into limp mode and the trans over temp light came on while cruising at around 70mph. After pulling over for a few minutes I started It back up and it was fine. I was unable to get the problem addressed at that time so I kept driving it for about 2 weeks more like that, usually twice a day having to pull over to and from work. Finally one day the trans just stopped working all together. I don't remember the codes exactly but it only had 2- solenoid B stuck open and transmission failure. The engine still starts and runs fine but the trans makes no function when you take it out of park. After researching the codes thrown I came to the conclusion of replacing the solenoid. I got my hands on a whole valve body assembly instead and replaced that. After replacing the fluid and return filter I gave it the moment of truth and shifted into drive, and it moved! I drove up and down my block about a dozen times and everything seemed normal (a little bit of noise at first but I assumed that was the fluid being circulated). Lastly I drove it out of town and hit 55mph and it made some new noises but nothing seemed major. I pulled over to turn around and right as I went to take off there was a clunk and then that was it... no trans function anymore. The same 2 codes came up and that was it. Is it still the trans? Or the tcm or pcm? Can anyone help me?
 

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Hey gang, long time, no post. With the clock showing 122000 miles on the 2011 Rush, the last few days it was making a whining noise, in park or in gear it was there. I was thinking it was the alternator, but when I used a stack of extensions to listen to it, no funny whine, same with the power steering pump. So I jump in and try to take it for a drive, I get a bucking sensation the first time I hit the gas and the car is surging, stumbling, and then the check engine light comes on and the throttle pedal goes dead before I got to the end of the block. I manage to idle the car backwards back in front of the house and park it. A friend comes over this afternoon with a scanner and he says the only code it's showing is "7E8", which, according to the scanner, relates to a control module. My first assumption was the tranny is fried, but I never had any warning lights (besides the CEL), and now i'm seeing there could be a wiring issue. We still owe a fair amount on the car and we really can't afford to pay someone to futz around with it, so I'm hoping the pros around here might have some ideas on getting this thing back on the road.
 

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Hello everyone! Here is one more CVT issue. Thanks in advance for your time

Vehicle: 2007 Dodge Caliber FWD CVT with 65k miles located in Hawaii with some rust and corrosion

Problem: Car does not move when put into forward or reverse. Engine will rev as it acts like it is always in neutral. Park still works

History: We bought the car 4 months ago with 60k miles. CVT was always a little noisy but we thought that is just how they sounded. We have never had any issues such as overheat light or noticeable slipping. Last week the car took a few tries to get into reverse. Then while driving it started reving and no longer transmitted power to the wheels. It was towed to a local shop who had no idea what to do with the CVT. I had it towed home for my own inspection. It appears that a replacement CVT could cost as much as its current value of $4k

1[SUP]st[/SUP]Checked codes:
P0456 and P0457 Evaporative Emission (these have been there since purchase)
B2AAA- Body
P0700– Generic powertrain
P0746– Powertrain pressure control solenoid “A” performance or stuck off
P0777- Powertrain pressure control solenoid “B”

2[SUP]nd [/SUP]Cleared the codes and checked again – Drive and reverse still did not work
Same as above plus P3632 – Powertrain (This may have been caused by having the intake tube pre filter removed)

3[SUP]rd[/SUP]Searched many forum posts and checked the following:
Checked shifter linkage – Works and gauge cluster shows the selected gear
Unplugged most wiring connectors around CVT and inspected – All looked good
Checked for cut sheathing and broken wires – found nothing but I could do a more thorough job
Noticed CV axle was oily from fluid leaking from the CVT – Not actively dripping
Checked CVT fluid level with engine dipstick – fluid looked to be in good shape, maybe a little low as it was below the safe level. I need to get the car level and remove the side plug to check level.

4[SUP]th [/SUP]Cleared the codes and checked again – Drive and reverse still did not work
B2AAA,P0440 (Emissions), P0700, P0777 and new code
P1607– Powertrain serial communication problem with device 7

Questions
What are the symptoms of a failed CVT transmission?
Could low fluid cause this problem?
Is a bad wire still a possible solution?
Is it worth trying to replace CVT parts? I see there are kits on eBay
 

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Unfortunately, it sounds very much like your CVT is no more. One thing you didn't mention, is what happens when you try to rev the engine in drive or reverse. If it will rev fine in park or neutral, but won't rev at all in drive or reverse, that's the computer trying to prevent further damage, but it's pointless. The damage is done and there's no going back. But, before you throw $4000 at a car that's only worth that, have a look here:

http://www.caliberforumz.com/showth...ing-used-CVT-transmission-swap-(mis)adventure

Right now, I'd say the biggest problem you'll have, is being in Hawaii, I don't know what the availability of used parts is. But the swap can be done at home, however you'll also still need someone with a high dollar scan tool to properly introduce the "new" transmission to the rest of the car. It's not like the old days when you could just swap a part and go. These days, it's more like an arranged marriage. Good luck.
 

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Hi All,
I'm hoping to hear some thoughts about a CVT situation that happened to me this morning. On my way to work today around 6 am, I started to hear a whining sound (similar to this sound... https://youtu.be/VNkEZt0mr-4) about 4 miles in to my drive. It got higher pitched as I accelerated, but I was never going over 45 mph because I was in town and that was the speed limit. I thought the car was driving normal otherwise but now that I think about it the RPMs may have been running high. I shifted into neutral and the sound went away, I shifted back into drive and the sound came back. I continued to drive for another mile or two until the transmission overtemp light came on. I don't know if it went into "limp mode" because I immediately took my foot off the gas and coasted to a stop on the side of the road and turned off the car. After about 5 minutes I started the car back up, turned around and headed home with the car acting completely normal. I came home and searched for the problem and came across this forum.

Reading through this and a couple of other threads mentioning wiring issues causing CVT problems made me think to look under the drivers side of the dash for loose wires and I maybe found a loose connection going into the white connector that is attached to the brake pedal arm (I have no idea what that part is called). I don't know if this connection has anything to do with anything, but when I pushed it in it did seem to seat a little better and I thought I felt a slight click. Anyways, I went back out and drove about 40 miles, 5 miles of city driving to the freeway then 15 miles on the freeway going 70 mph before turning around and heading back the same way. The car was driving normal the whole way... no weird sounds and no CEL or transmission temp lights came on.

The car is a 2007 Caliber SXT with CVT that my wife and I have owned since July of 2006 and it has 124k miles on it. We've done most of the normal servicing, regular oil changes and changed out the spark plugs a year or so ago when our garage recommended it. No real problems with it other than the oil pan gasket was changed out last month due to a slow leak from the pan. Also, the CEL has been coming on and going off for the last 3 or 4 months. The code that shows up is P0420 and it stays on for a day or two then goes off on its own. Today is the first day I've had any issues hearing this sound or with the transmission light illuminating.

So after my long winded backstory, I do have a couple of questions. Could that wiring harness that I think my have been loose caused the problem with the whining sound and the overtemp light coming on? I'm hoping there is nothing wrong with the transmission itself since the problem seemed to resolve itself, is this an unreasonable thought? What's the best way to diagnose the problem since it's no longer doing it and it didn't trip a CEL light or log any other fault codes? I could take it to a garage but they won't be able to tell me anything since its not doing it anymore, or is there something specific I should be asking them to do? Is the intermittent P0420 code more serious than I originally thought and causing problems with the CVT? Sorry to sound so ignorant and needy, I just really don't know what to do other than keep driving it until it happens again, and just cross my fingers that it doesn't. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.


I have a 2007 Caliber R/T with 227,000 miles on it. I have been having the P0420 code for about 10 months. It comes and goes and never stays long. About 4 months ago I stopped topping off my tank with gas. I don't even let the pump click, I see how many miles I can go and figure my MPG and go about 1/2 gallon under that. I have not had the P0420 code again.
As for the transmission temp light, mine came on the first time this past Saturday. I was on the interstate headed to Charlotte NC, doing about 70 mph when it came on. Within 5 miles it kicked to safemode. I pulled over and shut her down for about 15 minutes, started it back up and continued on my way. I have not had the issue again and traveled back home Monday and to work and back all week. (26 miles one way, highway and city driving) I have kept up will all service in the 11 years I have had my Caliber and drive with my butt and foot. If something is wrong I feel it in one of those 2 places 1st! I haven't felt a thing different except my nerves as a new car is not in my budget and I still love my caliber. I have read on several forums about the issue with the 2007 year model CVT and wonder if the mod to the wiring would be worth it. OR should I just be thankful that my Caliber is still going at 227,000 miles?
 

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Thanks for documenting your story. It was actually really helpful. I'm in a similar boat, trying to decide whether to replace the whole transmission or just the computer. Getting some scary codes, including the 2 you got, but I'm not convinced it's an actual transmission problem.
 

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Has anybody experienced a transmission issue that I can only describe as being similar to a slippimg clutch. My Caliber - 2007 sxt revs like crazy for no extra gain in acceleration - to teat it I took it fro 2500 to 6000 rpm with an increase in speed of about 6-7 kmh.

Any Ideas???
Hi, I bought my Caliber with 100K and drove the daylights out of it. I am at 250K, and now, my car does this, especially when it is HOT outside. If I drive 55mph I can go 2 hours without stopping. I pull over wait 20 minutes (not 15). Then I am able to drive another hour. If I ignore the whining noise that it makes, the car starts slowing down by itself. :( I cannot get anyone to tell me how to fix the CVT, I have had 2 mechanics tell me, buy a new car. Another 10K and my car now wants a new Catalytic Converter. I love my little car and has done amazing things, now I am done. The Catalytic Converter will cost $ 600.00 and no one will touch the tranny. Let me know if you find a fix.
 

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Hi folks...new to the forum....I thought I would tell you about my recent CVT issue. Driving home from work last week, my Transmission fluid overheat light came on. I immediately pulled over. The light went off so I decided to try and make it home...I made it to within 2 miles of home when the light again came on and it went into limp mode (25 Mph max). I had it towed to the dealer, I am now told the CVT is fried..needs total replacement, I have 49,347 miles on it...thank god for extended warranty!!
My 2010 did something similar. Knew it was an electrical or electronic issue because it happened about 2 blocks away from house on cold start. Took it to a local automotive electrical shop. CNR for about a week, then it repeated. They tested all the modules and pulled apart all the connectors looking for signs of burning or corrosion on the contacts. None found. All connectors reassembled with fresh dielectric grease. It's operated perfectly ever since (about two years ago). Best part ... Only charged for a diagnostic session :D
 

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If he's not in a position to sell his car, of course it's worth a shot. It is my understanding that the engine coolant also cools the cvt fluid, so if the coolant is low or bad, a flush would help to keep the fluid cooler. As for cvt flush, if you read my backlog I was having the same issues with a noisy cvt. Turns out I had a slow leak from ahey did you use Mopar cvt transmission fluid or something different
 

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Hi folks...new to the forum....I thought I would tell you about my recent CVT issue. Driving home from work last week, my Transmission fluid overheat light came on. I immediately pulled over. The light went off so I decided to try and make it home...I made it to within 2 miles of home when the light again came on and it went into limp mode (25 Mph max). I had it towed to the dealer, I am now told the CVT is fried..needs total replacement, I have 49,347 miles on it...thank god for extended warranty!!
We bought our 2011 Mainstreet used, with a bit over 100,000 miles on it, No warranty. A few months into owning it the CVT fried. We still owed 5k on it. We contacted the dealer and they suggested we contact Chrysler. Chrysler replaced it and it only cost us around 1200.00.
Hi folks...new to the forum....I thought I would tell you about my recent CVT issue. Driving home from work last week, my Transmission fluid overheat light came on. I immediately pulled over. The light went off so I decided to try and make it home...I made it to within 2 miles of home when the light again came on and it went into limp mode (25 Mph max). I had it towed to the dealer, I am now told the CVT is fried..needs total replacement, I have 49,347 miles on it...thank god for extended warranty!!
 
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