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Discussion Starter #1
This how-to is part 2 of three of the grander scheme of installing

- Aeroforce Scangauge
- RealTune Map/Tip Clamp
- AEM AFR UEGO

Part 1, Running wiring harnesses from cabin to engine bay, posted previously, lays out the details of running the wiring from the cabin to the engine bay.

In this section, I'm documenting wiring inside the cabin as well as some unexpected mounting location for the AFR.

In part three (later), I will document final Clamp hook up to the ECU as well as final Aeroforce scangauge installation and hookup and show off final install picture. Maybe, if I have time to go get it done, I'll include a dyno sheet.

For now, on to the clamp.

In part 1, I had shown the wiring harness and color coding I used. My yellow (map) and pink (tip) wires have plain and black tips. The black tips go from clamp Out ports to the ECU whereas the plain colors go from original ECU harness to clamp. Red and black for power, as usual. I've arranged the wiring for a side exit; this is due to projected mounting position which I'll discuss in part 3.

Here's the final clamp wiring job, soldered in loop hooks, before tape wrap and protection tube (as seen in part 1):



There's not much to add for this at the moment so I'll go ahead with AFR discussion.

I've said it before, I hate pillar gauges. They are a horrible eye sore (as far as I'm concerned and you do not have to agree) and totally give off the fact that you're modded. So mounting my AFR at the pillar is out of the question for me.

While it's perfectly OK to connect the Clamp power on the ECU even if you have a WOT Box piggy-backing at the same power source, it was suggested to me by a knowledgeable person here (*cought* RT *cought*) that I should power the AFR elsewhere.

Pillar A comes back into the picture. Since everyone is mounting their gauges there (transforming their field of view into a year-round Christmas tree of distractions), I figured it was a good source of power and that I could tap AFR power from there.

The AEM AFR UEGO has two wire harness. One connects the O2 sensor while the other is a power-in and Serial-Out (for data logging) harness.

Begin by removing the Pillar A trim panel by uncapping the screw plug (it clips on top and bottom, so use a thin flat screw driver to pry it out off the side of the plug). Then, use the #2 Phillips screw driver and push hard against the screw head: this thing is quite tight from factory and there's a feeling you could strip the screw head.

Once removed, gently pull from the top of the trim panel down at a 45°-ish angle, towards the center console and then pull out:



Now that the Pillar is exposed, you can see a spacing between the dash and the pillar. You can stuff your AFR (or whatever) wiring down that gap:



This understandably out -of-focus image shows an upskirt shot from under the dash where I'm pointing at my AFR wire coming down. On the left is the steering column:



Now you're going to see where I'm getting at…

Using a spare set of wire as a fishing tool, I ran the wire down the steering column underside molding, between the left plastic and the inside rubber and circled around the dash assembly:



Using the bottom end, I taped my two AFR harnesses to it and gently guided the wires through the dash:



(Notice my work pan in the foot well, where I kept my parts and soldering gun.)

Here's a clearer shot of where the wires run through:



At that point, it would probably be a good idea to confirm your wires are not interfering with steering (and vice versa) making sure you can vertically adjust the steering without pinching the wires and turning the steering wheel from left to right. Watch for cable movement or blockage (by pulling on them to make sure they're still free).

Did I mention I hate pillar pods? I plan on a much simpler design, and fabrication is not completed yet. But I can (or rather, have to) show you the prototype mounting bracket without the covering for now:



and AFR placement once affixed:



and from the driver's point of view:

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Back to that stupid pillar… this is the CSRT4 Pillar A, driver side, wire harness:



I have NO idea why there are so many wires running through there, but power is all I care about so we'll dig through it. The easiest one is the grounding screw. It's got a whole bunch of wires clamped in one loop connector and that is where we'll be soldering the negative power wire to.

For easier access, I untaped the bundle of wires and untaped the black plastic wire harness from it's holding clamp:



In the bundle of wires (more easily accessible on top of the beige connector), look for the PINK wire with YELLOW STRIPE, in the upper back of the connector:



This wire is an ignition-switched +12V. That's our target. Now, because I have a tendency to change my mind, I didn't want to have to tap twice in that wire (or ground) if I ever decided to put a (ugly) pillar pod, or require tapping for more power for another gauge. So, I've created myself a mini power harness from a red/black paired wire where I've attached clip connectors on one end, whereas the other end will be soldered on the pillar wires:



Expose the PINK/YELLOW wire, GENTLY, using a blade and wrap the mini power harness RED wire to it. Make sure you protect the other wires and dashboard before soldering, in case a drop of flux drops down:



Once soldered:



Tape that tight and that one is done. For the ground wire, my tiny needle soldering gun wasn't hot enough to heat up the large ground connector so my buddy, which arrived at that precise moment, pulled out the Big Gun™:



Once the soldering was done, I put the clips at the end of my AFR wires (or whatever power cable you need from there) and connected it to my mini power harness. I then tucked the wires neatly in there to make sure they would not cause annoying vibrations from the sound system or driving, also taking care of re-affixing the wires bundle we undid for easier access earlier. I used black zip ties, because BZTFTW and white ones look gay:



Until I can finish the installation (and fabrication) of the AFR, AFTER I get my Scangauge this week (I'm hopeful), I have zip-tied the AFR in place, getto style, so it wouldn't wobble down:



This is what the AFR looks like, powered up, from it's projected resting place:



Unfortunately, my bong will not get welded to my DP until May 1st, so this is as much as the AFR will display until then.

To come later in part 3, Aeroforce installation and (hopefully) final fabrication of my alternate AFR mounting solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Got my latest goodies today: Aeroforce Interceptor and MPx boost leak test rig.

Yeah, I know I could have made my own test rig but after going (and wasting time) at 3 shops where I ought to have been able to get all the frickin parts, I decided to buy MPx's. It cost less than the time and gas I wasted trying to find all the parts locally. Sheesh.

Anyhow, the Aeroforce feels as flimsy and cheap as it's 80s style suggest. The two control buttons are loosely-fited rods in face holes, similar to the EVIC and trip meter buttons. Except cheaper. The plastic also is kinda flimsy, if I compare to the AEM AFR UEGO gauge, which really feels solid.

Anyhow, I suppose it'll feel better when it's in place. Besides, what I'm after is it's functionality, which we know, is incomparable.

Just whish even more that PLx DM-200 had knock checks. It's my next gauge for sure.

I've already modified the Aeroforce faceplate. Don't really have time to install this tonight (had house plumbing issues :icon_evil: ) but I'll show off what I did to the gauge earlier.

When you buy the Aeroforce scangauge at reputable outlets, you have the option of paying extra for a SRT faceplate. This comes in the form of a WHITE and otherwise blank faceplate AND a red-printed SRT logo on an extra face (plastic) lens.

Problem is, the white faceplate really doesn't fit the white-ish CSRT4 stock gauges and I really didn't like the combined looks.

The Aeroforce, otherwise, comes standard with a BLACK faceplate WITH Aeroforce logo printed directly on it. Given our CSRT4 dash is mostly black, I decided to use the black faceplate with the SRT lens on top. Of course, the printed Aeroforce logo would show through the SRT logo and that would have SUCKED.

So, I tried with GooGone:



Alas, Goo Gone didn't de-gooed the gauge (say that 3 times aloud for fun).

So instead, I used an orbital sander with 400 grit paper and de-orbited the Aeroforce logo:



And here's the final result, which will go in the car no later than tomorrow:



You can see on this close-up picture what I meant with the stick rod buttons losely fitting the faceplate :smiledown:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
** reserved for editing **
 
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