Dodge Caliber Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
It was a bit 'of time that me whirred by the head to replace incandescent lamps with LEDs, and then I'm armed with holy patience and I began to disassemble the center console to study well, how to do it.

In the end the only option was to make the bridge of two resistors and an LED.
The ESP button and lowering the lights were very easy to make but for the top I had so many problems.
How to produce a directional light LEDs, unlike incandescent bulbs, the lower left corner and red zone heating were not enlightened enough, I had to tilt the LEDs (those big bulbs.)

The resistors used for all the LEDs are 330 Ohm SMD 1206 (two for one LED)
Buttons for ESP and lowering the lights I used the green LED 3.2V 20mA PLCC 3528 580 MCD
For three small bulbs I used the yellow LEDs PLCC 3528 600-800 mcd 20mA 3.2V
For 4 large bulbs I used the white LED 3528 PLCC 500 mcd 3.2V 20 mA (to get the green light you must use yellow LEDs)

The LED lights for the buttons, and ESP (the bridge mode)
In the first version I cut the cap and put the green LEDs, but after I decided to leave it and put the white LED

The original incandescent bulbs
Bulb large diameter 4.7 mm
Bulb small diameter 3.1 mm


For climate change:
4 large bulbs (yellow square) with white LED light you get the blue light. With yellow you get green light.
3 small bulbs (red square)
Those in green are already present

The bulbs replaced with LEDs

The LED at 45 degrees for the light uniformly in all areas.


The solution for large bulbs


The bridge for small bulbs

you get this

update 22/04/2011

All white LEDs without cutting silicon cap

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,112 Posts
Thanks for explaining what the problem was being fixed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,858 Posts
Thank you very much for adding this knowledge and sharing it :smileup:

:worshippy:

Clear pictures and very good explanations :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
i Ordered all the leds and resistors on ebay i will def do this mod, one of the bulbs on mine has gone now to i see .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
GREAT! Thank you for this!! :)

And you have used for all LEDs 2x 330 Ohm resistors? (Because on the pictures there is the number 3300)

The lowering lights level indicators are still yellow?
I found these (because I want to have everything in white (blue)):
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/181985/LED-SMD-PLCC2-WEIss-3300K/SHOP_AREA_17320&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

But they are having 2500 mcd? May I use them also?
And do you have on every LED SMD used 2x the 330 Ohm resistors? I found these:
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/402486/SMD-WIDERSTAND-330R-1206/SHOP_AREA_17445&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

Therefore I need 7x 3528 White LEDs, and 14x 330 Ohm 1026 SMD resistors?

Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
GREAT! Thank you for this!! :)

And you have used for all LEDs 2x 330 Ohm resistors? (Because on the pictures there is the number 3300)

The lowering lights level indicators are still yellow?
I found these (because I want to have everything in white (blue)):
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/181985/LED-SMD-PLCC2-WEIss-3300K/SHOP_AREA_17320&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

But they are having 2500 mcd? May I use them also?
And do you have on every LED SMD used 2x the 330 Ohm resistors? I found these:
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/402486/SMD-WIDERSTAND-330R-1206/SHOP_AREA_17445&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

Therefore I need 7x 3528 White LEDs, and 14x 330 Ohm 1026 SMD resistors?

Thank you!
For all blue you must use all white LEDs 3528 PLCC-2 500 mcd 3.2V 20 mA or higher.
The resistor number 3300 means 330 Ohm ± 1 % tolerance. Blue ones are high quality resistor from KOA. https://www.distrelec.it/ishop/Datasheets/06016752.pdf

I do not think that they are led from 2500 mcd but many vendors declared absurd values to sell better. The 500 MCD is very very bright LED.
Many of my LED 500 MCD are brighter than those from 1500 MCD. It depends where you buy it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Hello!

Thanks for you reply! I would by the one with 500MCA but the shop is having only the white SMDs with 2500MCD. I would be more than happy woth the same result like from the pictures above. The shop that is selling those 2500 is a good quality electronic shop, but as I said they only have these.. Are they only "brighter" than the ones with 500MCD or are they also hotter then the 500MCD (I don't want to melt anything inside).

I don't mind about the brightness, I just want it to have like on the pictures, but thw shop is only selling the 2500mcd..And I don't want to buy any cheap china ebay stuff where I get 50x of those LED SMD for 12 bucks..

If I can use the 2500 without any side efects (melting the plastic) then I would buy them.. Hopefully they arent too bright.. :p

But if the plastic isn't melted with the stock bulbs which are producing around 70 degrees celsius, then it shouldn meltwith the SMD neither..

Thanks!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
10,854 Posts
Could someone re post the pictures from the first post?

thanks
Unfortunately the original poster is the only one that can fix it. The images were deleted by him or Image shack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I'm so sorry, but this forum does not allow editing of posts. The images have been deleted from Immageshack, and I have them restored but can not restore it to the first post.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Central console LED Conversion (lots of pics)

It was a bit 'of time that me whirred by the head to replace incandescent lamps with LEDs, and then I'm armed with holy patience and I began to disassemble the center console to study well, how to do it.

In the end the only option was to make the bridge of two resistors and an LED.
The ESP button and lowering the lights were very easy to make but for the top I had so many problems.
How to produce a directional light LEDs, unlike incandescent bulbs, the lower left corner and red zone heating were not enlightened enough, I had to tilt the LEDs (those big bulbs.)

The resistors used for all the LEDs are 330 Ohm SMD 1206 (two for one LED)
Buttons for ESP and lowering the lights I used the green LED 3.2V 20mA PLCC 3528 580 MCD
For three small bulbs I used the yellow LEDs PLCC 3528 600-800 mcd 20mA 3.2V
For 4 large bulbs I used the white LED 3528 PLCC 500 mcd 3.2V 20 mA (to get the green light you must use yellow LEDs)

The LED lights for the buttons, and ESP (the bridge mode)



In the first version I cut the cap and put the green LEDs, but after I decided to leave it and put the white LED



The original incandescent bulbs
Bulb large diameter 4.7 mm
Bulb small diameter 3.1 mm



For climate change:
4 large bulbs (yellow square) with white LED light you get the blue light. With yellow you get green light.
3 small bulbs (red square)
Those in green are already present



The bulbs replaced with LEDs







The LED at 45 degrees for the light uniformly in all areas.



The solution for large bulbs



The bridge for small bulbs





you get this



update 22/04/2011

All white LEDs without cutting silicon cap


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With the pyrometer attached to the tab with the incandescent bulb temperature reaches 47 ° C.
The temperature of the glass bulb is 100 ° C.

Temperature light bulb turned off



Temperature few minutes after ignition



PCB temperature with LED



Solved the problem of overheating of center console
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Can it be that this conversion has blown up the inverter from the instrument table (gauges)? Because after I have done the conversion a couple of weeks later the illumination of the gauges is flickering.. (Just asking..)

Thanks again for your explanations!!!

EDIT: And regarding the pictures problems, have you thought to make a PICASA account? (I think you get there 2GB on webspace to upload pictures, and I think that it would be a good thing for all of yours followers) :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,112 Posts
I'm so sorry, but this forum does not allow editing of posts. The images have been deleted from Immageshack, and I have them restored but can not restore it to the first post.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Very impressive that you backed up the original post.
I'd rep if I could.
Edited your links back into the thread. Well done :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,029 Posts
wow... this is awesome!

now i know why the assembly is getting that hot...

lol can i send u my assembly and u solder it for me?!
i don't dare... lol
;)
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top