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Discussion Starter #1
I read the other thread and my problem seems a bit different. I have a 2007 Caliber SXT with 60K miles. When we attempt to start it, the car turns over but doesn't start or catch. Sorry I am not very car literate. It's so weird because worked fine, I went to the store and back, then 30 minutes later this problem occurs when I attempt to leave again.

I tried unhooking the NEG cord and the IOD fuse #21, those were just some suggestions I saw in the other thread, but again the situation seemed a bit different. Yes, there is gas in the car, and yes the battery is good. Any help would be greatly appreciated if there is any additional info that would help diagnose the car I would be that happy to provide it.
 

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Try removing and cleaning your battery cables first. You may have some corrosion on them that you can't see. If that doesn't work, get a spark plug tester from you local auto parts store and see if you plugs are firing. If not, it may be a TIPM problem. As far as the IOD fuse goes, that's a good idea, but you may want to check all of the fuses under the hood and make sure one of them isn't blown. The IOD isn't the only one involved in starting it.
 

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Since the car was still warm, let it cool for a couple hours and try it again. Depending what happens then will determine if it's the Crankshaft Position Sensor, or the fuel pump.
 

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From what I have read in another thread, "the fuel filter mounts inside the fuel pump and is a non-serviceable part". And from the reply you gave in that thread, "Non-serviceable means you run the car until the fuel pump dies, then replace the whole assembly which includes a built in filter." So If it is the Fuel pump, which I have a feeling it is because of me driving on E all the time. Will purchasing a new fuel pump be the only way to solve the problem?
 

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From what I have read in another thread, "the fuel filter mounts inside the fuel pump and is a non-serviceable part". And from the reply you gave in that thread, "Non-serviceable means you run the car until the fuel pump dies, then replace the whole assembly which includes a built in filter." So If it is the Fuel pump, which I have a feeling it is because of me driving on E all the time. Will purchasing a new fuel pump be the only way to solve the problem?
The fuel pump is likely if it isn't the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The CPS usually acts up the most when the car has been driven to warm, and then within a hour you try to restart it. That's why I suggested letting it cool for a couple hours. If it is the CPS, it will start once cool. The service manual has instructions on replacing the fuel pump. It's located under the backseat.
 

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Doesn't the Crankshaft Position Sensor, if bad set a fault code? Also, from what I have read, if the PCM (engine computer) does not pick up a signal from the CPS and the two Camshaft Position Sensors within 1 second of starting to crank the engine, the fuel pump won't start and there will be no signal to the ignition coils.
I know several people who have had this sensor fail (even on "perfect" Toyotas), so that is a common problem. But, a fault code is always set - indicating a bad CPS.
 

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Doesn't the Crankshaft Position Sensor, if bad set a fault code? Also, from what I have read, if the PCM (engine computer) does not pick up a signal from the CPS and the two Camshaft Position Sensors within 1 second of starting to crank the engine, the fuel pump won't start and there will be no signal to the ignition coils.
I know several people who have had this sensor fail (even on "perfect" Toyotas), so that is a common problem. But, a fault code is always set - indicating a bad CPS.
I had the problem, a common issue, with my Land Rover. It never set a code. I guess it all depends on how it fails.
 

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No code - that's wierd, but you never know.

A guy I work with's Jeep Wrangler had the CPS die (code reader showed code that indicated no signal from sensor). The Jeep cranked perfectly, but no fuel, no ignition, luckily a code was set.
 

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You should also keep in mind that if it turns out to be the fuel pump, that most likely running it near E all of the time contributed to it's failure. The gasoline in the tank helps keep the pump cool. If it's not properly covered with gas, this can cause it to run hotter than normal and cause premature failure. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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That's true Charlie. I've only let my 'low fuel' light come on once just to see it LOL!!! I did this on my trip to Nashville a few months ago. Other than this one time, i keep my gas level pretty full most of the time.
 

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I read the other thread and my problem seems a bit different. I have a 2007 Caliber SXT with 60K miles. When we attempt to start it, the car turns over but doesn't start or catch. Sorry I am not very car literate. It's so weird because worked fine, I went to the store and back, then 30 minutes later this problem occurs when I attempt to leave again.

and yes the battery is good.

Any help would be greatly appreciated if there is any additional info that would help diagnose the car I would be that happy to provide it.
I have been caught out with the Cali thinking the battery was good, seems they need to be perfect!

To reassure yourself you are looking for something else maybe worth a jump with leads.
 

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The fuel pump is likely if it isn't the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The CPS usually acts up the most when the car has been driven to warm, and then within a hour you try to restart it. That's why I suggested letting it cool for a couple hours. If it is the CPS, it will start once cool. The service manual has instructions on replacing the fuel pump. It's a pain that requires draining the tank and dropping it to get to the pump.
The fuel pump is very easy to replace, remove the two bolts (on the front side of seat) you will need a big star fitting for this. Lift rear seat out. there is an access hole in floor for replacing fuel pump. Remove the 2 connections to pump. turn hold down ring and remove. pump will lift out. you can replace in less than 30 min. total
 

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The fuel pump is very easy to replace, remove the two bolts (on the front side of seat) you will need a big star fitting for this. Lift rear seat out. there is an access hole in floor for replacing fuel pump. Remove the 2 connections to pump. turn hold down ring and remove. pump will lift out. you can replace in less than 30 min. total
Thanks for correcting me. That's what happens when you have multiple cars. You mix up procedures among the different cars, sometimes.;)
 

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my wife's 2007 dodge caliber had intermittent starting problems. For example, one morning it did not start, so i went through all the fuses, nothing wrong. Frustrated i tried starting the car after it sat for several hours and it started!!, to my surprise because i hadn't done anything. I chalked it up to bad gas. The same problem about 2 weeks later, out shopping and when returned to the car in the parking lot the car would not start. Again, went thru the stuff i could, but ended up jsut shopping for two hours, then attempting a start and YES, it started. Strange thing right? so i read on these forums about tipm re resets and 20 other possible solutions. Here's what it came down to. Replaced the fuel pump with junk yard pump. As we pulled out the old fuel pump we noticed the elec. connection had a prong stuck in it. One of the 4 prongs attached to the pump had been obviously shorting, and had arc syndrome all over it. New (used) fuel pump went in and started right up.
Thought i would post this and save someone else the time. Fuel pump was tight going back in, but we filed lightly around the leading edge, and were careful to remove all plastic debris, and it fit nice and snug. Any questions feel free to post, and thanks.
 

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my wife's 2007 dodge caliber had intermittent starting problems. For example, one morning it did not start, so i went through all the fuses, nothing wrong. Frustrated i tried starting the car after it sat for several hours and it started!!, to my surprise because i hadn't done anything. I chalked it up to bad gas. The same problem about 2 weeks later, out shopping and when returned to the car in the parking lot the car would not start. Again, went thru the stuff i could, but ended up jsut shopping for two hours, then attempting a start and YES, it started. Strange thing right? so i read on these forums about tipm re resets and 20 other possible solutions. Here's what it came down to. Replaced the fuel pump with junk yard pump. As we pulled out the old fuel pump we noticed the elec. connection had a prong stuck in it. One of the 4 prongs attached to the pump had been obviously shorting, and had arc syndrome all over it. New (used) fuel pump went in and started right up.
Thought i would post this and save someone else the time. Fuel pump was tight going back in, but we filed lightly around the leading edge, and were careful to remove all plastic debris, and it fit nice and snug. Any questions feel free to post, and thanks.
I am about to replace my fuel pump....my question is will the gas come out, and how do I drain it if needed.....trying to be mess free :)
 

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I am about to replace my fuel pump....my question is will the gas come out, and how do I drain it if needed.....trying to be mess free :)
No, as post #12 states, it under the back seat and unbolts and lifts out. No mess. You can download a free copy of the service manual in our "Manuals" section to assist you. Some people only found corrosion to be the issue.
 

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No, as post #12 states, it under the back seat and unbolts and lifts out. No mess. You can download a free copy of the service manual in our "Manuals" section to assist you. Some people only found corrosion to be the issue.

Thanks, I had assumed by the post that this was the case....but felt I should ask prior just to be sure and not have any surprise issues...


Thanks again!
 

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my wife's 2007 dodge caliber had intermittent starting problems. For example, one morning it did not start, so i went through all the fuses, nothing wrong. Frustrated i tried starting the car after it sat for several hours and it started!!, to my surprise because i hadn't done anything. I chalked it up to bad gas. The same problem about 2 weeks later, out shopping and when returned to the car in the parking lot the car would not start. Again, went thru the stuff i could, but ended up jsut shopping for two hours, then attempting a start and YES, it started. Strange thing right? so i read on these forums about tipm re resets and 20 other possible solutions. Here's what it came down to. Replaced the fuel pump with junk yard pump. As we pulled out the old fuel pump we noticed the elec. connection had a prong stuck in it. One of the 4 prongs attached to the pump had been obviously shorting, and had arc syndrome all over it. New (used) fuel pump went in and started right up.
Thought i would post this and save someone else the time. Fuel pump was tight going back in, but we filed lightly around the leading edge, and were careful to remove all plastic debris, and it fit nice and snug. Any questions feel free to post, and thanks.
OH man, I feel like I'm having this very same problem, and I'm dreading it because it's mighty cold out right now, don't know if you're still around or not, but if you are I was wondering if you were able to hear the pump priming in these situations? tricking one into thinking the pump might still be good.
 
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