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ADMIN NOTE: This is an issue that is cropping up as the years go by on these cars. This thread should give all pause to think. It will help those that have the fortitude to dig into these cars and trace a simple fix that requires long hours to get to that point. One has to wonder why a car that has such an elaborate electrical system would not have been built with more protection of the wiring harnesses. Post #60 links to a picture of the main harness that is at issue.

Hello all...newbie here. I have found this forum quite helpful so far....read a lot here! Here we go.... I have a 2008 Caliber (wife's car). The wife went to leave yesterday morning and problem! No crank, no click, no nothing. After beating my head and several google reads, I got some great reads here. I did some digging under the hood. I find out no power to the solenoid lead to the starter when the key is cranked. I was misinformed by her uncle (ex Dodge dealer mechanic), that I had to find the starter relay. Which I did find the relays in the wheel well ahead of the front drivers tire. Of course, they are never marked. So with my test light and some digging I traced the wire back to the TIPM. From what I can gather with the few tools I have....the TIPM is not allowing juice through it to the solenoid to engage the starter. Everything else works just fine and the battery is only a year old. Another victim of the dreaded TIPM? We haven't had the car even a year yet. Any advice, tips or anything would be great!! I'm kinda wondering if it is possible to pick up a used one....money is tight (as always!). I heard you can't put a used one in.
 

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Do the reset: http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=39192

If that doesn't do it, you likely have a SKREEM issue. That's the device that reads the key code. For that; disconnect the neg battery cable. While someone tries to crank the car, reconnect the battery cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks. I tried that once. Maybe worth another try. I even left the cables unhooked and touching, hoping that would do it. The remote still works. I get power on the top of #16 (I think it's 16) when she turns the key over. Just no juice to the solenoid wire. I am doing the reset per your instructions. The battery is an Interstate and tagged Aug. 12. It has all other functions, lights, radio, fan, etc. I even have the charger on 12v 40 amp to top it off. I hope for some dumb reason it isn't just battery.
 

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Thanks. I tried that once. Maybe worth another try. I even left the cables unhooked and touching, hoping that would do it. The remote still works. I get power on the top of #16 (I think it's 16) when she turns the key over. Just no juice to the solenoid wire. I am doing the reset per your instructions. The battery is an Interstate and tagged Aug. 12. It has all other functions, lights, radio, fan, etc. I even have the charger on 12v 40 amp to top it off. I hope for some dumb reason it isn't just battery.
The SKREEM reading of the key is separate from the remote. If it isn't reading the key it will not activate the starting circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm stuck. I don't have an extra set of hands yet to try the reset again. Not sure if it's the WCM/SKREEM or the TIPM. Unfortunately we only got the one key w/remote when we bought it last October. I read the one thread about the guy who took his TIPM apart and fixed it. Sounds just a bit complex....plus not 100% sure that is it yet. I will stay on this and keep you all posted. Gotcha Brad. Thanks. Just saw that reply. Now what to do?
 

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I'm stuck. I don't have an extra set of hands yet to try the reset again. Not sure if it's the WCM/SKREEM or the TIPM. Unfortunately we only got the one key w/remote when we bought it last October. I read the one thread about the guy who took his TIPM apart and fixed it. Sounds just a bit complex....plus not 100% sure that is it yet. I will stay on this and keep you all posted. Gotcha Brad. Thanks. Just saw that reply. Now what to do?
The temporary fix for the SKREEM is the procedure I posted. It effectively jump starts it to working. It can fix it for a short time to permanently. I would not go all gaga over replacing the $expensive$ TIPM until we have worked through all the cheaper possibilities.
 

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I've now found the time to look at the service manual. Check the Ignition Control fuse. It's #28 and is a 10A fuse. If you have access to a scanner; you should have some set codes. If you don't have one; buy one. These are more important then a wrench in the toolbox these days.
 

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Gotcha. 27 and 28 are two that are in that little protector plastic jigamathingy. I don't have a scanner but surely will look into getting one. I'm still waiting one an extra pair of hands to do the reset. We did it yesterday but I think I still had the key in the ignition. I will do it right this time to make sure and go from there. It will get figured out and we all will learn from it. What kind of scanner do I need to look for? Thanks again Brad.
 

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I may be being impatient here but I went and tried this again with the test light. I tested the fuse tops of #27 and #28. Key OFF, nothing. Key to ON position, juice on both fuses. So the ignition is sending to the TIPM? Not the Wireless Control Module (WCM) and the key issue? I hooked the cables back up to the battery after leaving them touching for the last hour. I am still going to try the reset method. What else surprises me is that there is NO small spark of any kind when I hook the cables back up. Strange considering I have working lights, radio, etc. I have no real way of checking the draw.
 

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I may be being impatient here but I went and tried this again with the test light. I tested the fuse tops of #27 and #28. Key OFF, nothing. Key to ON position, juice on both fuses. So the ignition is sending to the TIPM? Not the Wireless Control Module (WCM) and the key issue? I hooked the cables back up to the battery after leaving them touching for the last hour. I am still going to try the reset method. What else surprises me is that there is NO small spark of any kind when I hook the cables back up. Strange considering I have working lights, radio, etc. I have no real way of checking the draw. Side note - Cabin filter out, still same air flow as before.
The power goes from the battery, thru fuse 28, and then circles back through the ignition switch. Likely still the SKREEM. Try the SKREEM reset, then your only option (besides the dealer) is to read the codes. There are a few modules that have to power up in order for the starter be sent power. Any of those having an issue will prevent a start and will throw a code. As a precaution, check the wire harness that runs under the battery tray and through the fender. Many electrical issues have been due to damage in that area.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will go through that and get back. I forgot to mention too. While I was told to check the relays, I found a nicked wire. I took the front part of the wheel well on the drivers side off to get at the relays. I noticed a wire had been pinched and skinned on a piece of metal. It was brown w/white stripe. I followed it up and it goes into the TIPM. I repaired the knicked wire with a shrink seal connector. I checked the fuses at least 6 times and no burnt one to be found. Not sure if that any thing to do with it. You could see green on the copper where the wire had been pinched and rubbing for some time. Not fresh....so I dunno guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Also, I will try to get me a scanner. For what it would cost to have it diagnosed I can probably buy a decent scanner somewhere. Consider it a good investment.
 

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Also, I will try to get me a scanner. For what it would cost to have it diagnosed I can probably buy a decent scanner somewhere. Consider it a good investment.
I bought mine off Amazon for under $20, but you can get them for for under $100 at Walmart, or under $30 at O'reillys.
 

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After a repair like the wiring you need to reset the TIPM to clear the codes
 

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Is that something that needs to be done with the scanner or by using the battery cable reset method?
Either way. But at this point, doing the TIPM reset will give you an answer faster if you haven't already bought a scanner.
 

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I tracked down that Brown/White wire. It is the front wiper low speed control output.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's cool Brad. You da man. Low/all wiper speed does work. Do you find it odd that the battery doesn't have any sort of even the smallest zap when hooking the cables back up? Year old Interstate with 800 ca. Speaking of, I didn't see any wires under or around the battery box. They are mostly on the drivers side around the TIPM and then down under the headlight inside that front corner panel in front of the tire.
 

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That's cool Brad. You da man. Low/all wiper speed does work. Do you find it odd that the battery doesn't have any sort of even the smallest zap when hooking the cables back up? Year old Interstate with 800 ca. Speaking of, I didn't see any wires under or around the battery box. They are mostly on the drivers side around the TIPM and then down under the headlight inside that front corner panel in front of the tire.
All that stuff is low current. If you hooked it up in the dark you would see minor sparks. In order to see the wires I'm talking about requires removing the battery and then the battery tray.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I took the battery and tray out. No wires directly underneath on this 08 Caliber SXT 2.0. There are some for the tranny lower and other engine components. Ok. Tried the TIPM/PCM Reset Procedure and the connect ground as someone turns the key. Did them both a couple times to be sure. No go guys. Back to stuck and not sure when I will get to get myself a scanner.
 
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