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Discussion Starter #1
The VW/Audi 2.0 PD engine uses an internal oil cartridge

The reference numbers are:

OIL FILTER EQUIVALENTS
Mann HU719/7x
Fiaam FA 5620 ECO
Fram CH-9463 ECO
Hengst E 19 H D83
Mahle OX 188 D OEKO
Purflux L 267 A
Technocar OP 259
OE ref 071 115 562 C

Dealer List price $10.30

DISCOUNT price $ 6.10
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is the Caliber CRD (VW/AUDI 2.0 PD) Oil Filter cartridge.



It's an internal fitment so messy.

Access is at the front of the engine



Helps to unplug the loom in front and remove the mounting (10mm bolt in the center)

.


I did not have my pro sockets so just used a plumbers wrench to open it

.
.
 

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D1---70.5 mm
D4---33.3 mm
D2---15.2 mm
H1---91 mm
H2---140.5 mm

OEM----68001297AA


MANN-FILTER:-------------------------HU 719/7 X
NPS:------------------------------------M131I17
AC Delco:-------------------------------AC6206E
ALCO FILTER:--------------------------MD-437
AMC Filter:----------------------------- MO-438
ASHIKA:--------------------------------10-ECO023
ASHUKI:--------------------------------0393-8205
BLUE PRINT:---------------------------ADA102101
BOSCH:---------------------------------1 457 429 192
CHAMPION:-----------------------------XE525/606
CLEAN FILTERS:------------------------ML1704
COOPERSFIAAM FILTERS:-------------FA5618ECO
FEBI BILSTEIN:-------------------------22546
FIAAM:------------------------------------FA5618ECO
FILTRON:---------------------------------OE 650/1
FORD-------------------------------------1118184
FRAM:-------------------------------------CH9463ECO
HENGST FILTER:-------------------------E19H D83
HERTH+BUSS JAKOPARTS:-------------J1315024
HOFFER:---------------------------------14028
IPS Parts:--------------------------------IFL-3594
JAPANPARTS:----------------------------FO-ECO023
KAGER:-----------------------------------00-0097
KAGER:-----------------------------------10-0002
KOLBENSCHMIDT:-----------------------50013505
MAPCO:-----------------------------------64806
MEAT & DORIA:--------------------------14028
MECAFILTER:----------------------------ELH4307
MEYLE:-----------------------------------100 115 0000
MITSUBISHI-----------------------------MN980125
MULLER FILTER:-------------------------FOP222
NIPPARTS:------------------------------J1315028
NPS:---------------------------------------M131I17
P.B.R.:------------------------------------AC-8043
PUROLATOR------------------------------L38113
PURFLUX:--------------------------------L267A
QUINTON HAZELL:----------------------WL7296
SCT Germany:--------------------------SH 4771
SOFIMA:----------------------------------S 5023 PE
SWAG:------------------------------------30 92 2546
TECNOCAR:-----------------------------OP224
TOPRAN:----------------------------------108 902
UFI:------------------------------------------25.023.00
VAICO:-------------------------------------V10-0391
WIX FILTERS:---------------------------WL7296
VW - AUDI------------------------------045 115 389 C
VW - AUDI ------------------------------045 115 466
VW - AUDI ------------------------------045 115 466 A
VW - AUDI ------------------------------045 115 466 B
VW - AUDI ------------------------------045 118 466
VW - AUDI ------------------------------071 115 562
VW - AUDI ------------------------------071 115 562 A
VW - AUDI ------------------------------071 115 562 B
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As these posts are so thorough thought I'd be professional and show a proper tool in use



Use a 32mm socket with an extension to grip the plastic cap

a 1 1/4" basin wrench can gouge the sides

 

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And now a other important question:

Which oil are you using for your diesel? (The last time I've exchanged it I put some Shell HELIX 5w30 505.01 inside. Now I saw some discussions about some of the caliber-drivers are using 5w40 or 507.00 or anything else)

I would be definitely a good point if somebody could say which oil should be put into the CRD..

With the oil that I was using (5w30 505.01) I didn't notice any performance issues or overheating or similar, but I'm asking just to be sure.

EDIT: And the second question: Should also the bolt which is used to drain the old oil be replaced every time the oil is being exchanged?

Thanks in advance!

Best regards,

Refik
 

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The best choice is Mobil 1 5W30 ESP (VW 507.00).
Since the washer can not be changed, you should change the bolt with any change the oil.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
The correct oil is 5W/40 505.01

I use Castrol Edge or Quantum (VW)

The oil spec is the same as for Golf etc 2.0 Tdi
 

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The VW 507 is a much higher quality oil than the VW505.1 and would have been absolutely fine.

Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30 has the following builder approvals: BMWLonglife 04 MB-Approval229.31/229.51 Volkswagen (Gasoline / Diesel)504 00 / 507 00 PorscheC30 ChryslerMS-11106 Peugeot/Citroën Automobiles B71 2290
B71 2297
AvtoVAZGroup "Luxe" AAEStandard STO 003-05, Group B6

According to ExxonMobil, Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W-30 is of the following quality level: APICF Volkswagen (Gasoline)502 00 / 503 00 / 503 01 Volkswagen (Diesel)505 00 /
505 01 / 506 00 / 506 01

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_1_ESP_Formula_5W-30.aspx

VW 507.00 – covers all the above mentioned VW specifications (except for R5 and V10 TDI engines), for all turbo and non turbo diesel VW engines with pump-injectors, with and without a particulate filter; variable mileage up to 30,000 km

http://www.mobil1.lt/en/naudinga-informacija/alyvu-ir-tepalu-specifikacijos/automobiliu-gamintoju-specifikacijos-varikliu-alyvoms/vw-grupes-specifikacijos-dyzeliniu-varikliu-alyvoms/


 

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Hello,

Did some investigations in local shops and talk to the dealer. I don't want to pay for some extra for long mileage oil with higher standards that my engine is, so I chose some bulk oil from domestic motoshop with standards 5W-30 SL/CF. It meets VW 502.00/505.00 and 505.01 with ACEA C3. So even this oil is more than my Caliber and Avenger demands according to the dealer. The price for the 20 litres can is quite reasonable -80 Euro / ~110USD in local conditions. That's nearly a one third price compared eg. to Mobil and Shell LongLife oils they want to sell to you.

So, as Aleks mentioned, 505.01 is enough. Local dealers in Finland want to charge you with longlife oil at 27USD /20Eur /litre within annual service!
 

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difference in quality of oil with the specific VW 50700 - ACEA C3


difference in quality of oil with the specific VW 50700 - VW 50501

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Still pricey there in Finland.

I bought Castrol Edge 5W/40 ( on offer -30% ) 4 litres for EUR30.
 

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Beyond me - says Fully Synthetic on the bottle

About Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5W-40 advanced synthetic engine oil

Castrol EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 has been developed to meet VW & Audi Diesel specifications (VW 505 01). It is especially designed for use in VW TDI engines using Electronic Unit Injectors (Pumpe Duse).

This product should not be used in PD models equipped for VW Longlife extended service intervals (indicated by letters QG1 on the VIN plate - see handbook for details) as Castrol EDGE 5W-30 contains the specifications for these vehicles (504 00, 507 00).#

Fully synthetic technology.

Specifications and Manufacturer Approvals

VW 502 00, 505 00, 505 01
MB-Approval 229.51
BMW Longlife-04 / LL-04
Ford WSS-M2C917-A (Ford Galaxy)
RENAULT RN0710 / RN0700
Meets Fiat 9.55535-S2
API SM/CF
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, C3


http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/castrol/EDGE Range/Castrol-Edge-Turbo-Diesel-5W-40.pdf
 

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The Castrol oil is not a real syntetic oil. It's hydrocracked oil. Only true synthetic Castol is Castrol Syntec 0W30.
http://www.technilube.com/faqs_info/synth_diff.php
Your link says the Syntec is the NOT synthetic one

reformulation of Castrol Syntec. They had changed their formula from a PAO base stock, which was one of the most commonly used base stocks at the time, to a petroleum base that had gone through a process called Hydrocracking.

Castrol
Syntec Group III/Hydrocracked

This data was compiled in the Spring of 2003 by Amsoil Dealer George Kimball.

Castrol Edge is a later product.
 

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For the oil industry to call hydrocracked stocks "SYNTHETIC" everywhere except in Germany.
I buy oil online only from Germany and only Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. 7,3 euro per liter
 

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Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.
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Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the �Ester� types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils. The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as �hydrocracked�. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low �W� rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.

We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the �synthetic� which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled �synthetic�.

Yes it�s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!

Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called �synthetic�?

Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called �synthetic�.

Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight!
They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word �synthetic� could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of �hydrocracked� mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.

So, the chemistry of �synthetics� is complex and so is the politics!

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with �synthetic� printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case.

But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd �track day�, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.

This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!

Mobil 1 = PAO
Motul = Not all are proper but believe V300 is Ester
Silkolene = All Pro S and R are Ester
Castrol RS = 10w-60 Hydrocracked (SLX 0w-30 PAO)
Millers = Hydrocracked as far as I'm aware
Comma - part of Exxon Mobil = AVOID definately hydrocracked
Shell = Most are hydrocracked, there are some PAO's
Carplan Triple R = Hydrocracked
Fuchs Supersyn SL range = PAO
Total = Some PAO, most hydrocracked
Valvoline = Hydrocracked
Redline = Most Ester
Royal Purple = Most Ester

It seems that some of the oils are UK specific, but I've seen a few of these here - I've always discounted the Fuch range , but seems like the Supersyn might be the go.

I'm not saying the Castrol is not good, I've used that and the Shell Synthetic in all my cars but it is interesting that they are not really what they claim to be.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Wow, why does everyone not know this ? What great information, love learning things on here.

My first Oil was the VW Quantum house brand, that should come from Germany. Maybe I can go back to that, otherwise your online price of EUR7.5 for Mobil1 is the way to go.
 
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