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Here is my repair process:


This bar (let's call it this way) has fatal design flaw - all 6 screws are surface mounted. Head of the screw is covered by thin layer of plastic. This layer will eventually crack as plastic become more brittle with age.

(plastic covering head of the screw is gone)

(screw was torn out from its socket)

There is nothing to do to prevent this failure. If your trunk bar is a bit lose then it means plastic is cracking and it will break soon.


Location of 6 screws is marked below. Unfortunately to get to screws 2-5 internal plastic must be disassembled.

  1. Open the trunk lid. Every interior plastic that is attached to trunk lid must be disassembled.
  2. Pry white plastic at the top of the window.
  3. Pry two white plastics at the sides of the window.
  4. Unscrew bottom plastic. There are two torx screws near the latch mechanism and few phillips screws.
  5. Carefully pry bottom plastic. It is held by a lot of clips so it takes some patience.
  6. If you have speaker to fully detach bottom plastic you must also disconnect speaker cable.
  7. Disconnect license plate lights and push out rubber seal surrounding those cables.
  8. Locate latch cable. Detaching bar handle end is not yet possible. First you need to pull out steel ball from latch trigger on the other end of cable.

    This will give enough cable slack so you can wiggle out cable from handle finger. Now comes the hard part - to detach cable cover you need to squeeze clips on terminator from both sides and slide it from mounting hole. Cable cover terminators do not slide through gap like they do in Dodge Journey. They are clips mounted and real pain in the *** to get out.
  9. Hooray, now the bar is fully detached. Bar cannot be disassembled further. The internal plastic (where the screws were) is glued to external plastic (with the paint).
  10. There should be a lot of sticky foam between bar and hatch that seals everything. Clean all the surfaces. Apply new foam patches on hatch around each screw hole, each pin hole and around lock cable hole. Sticky 2mm foam tape should be available in every bigger hardware store as it is commonly used in constructions.
  11. Drill holes in the bar where heads of screws 1, 2, 5 and 6 were.
  12. Attach bar to trunk lid using drywall self-expanding anchors. There are many types but those 6mm ones worked like charm.
  13. The connection is extremely solid. Bar does not wiggle or creaks. Here is screw 5 visible from inside.
  14. For screws 3 and 4 there is no empty space that anchor can go into. Just drill holes in plastic and use regular screws.
  15. Assemble everything. Before attaching bottom plastic check if you can open the trunk! In case of failure you will be able to open it from inside of the car and realign cable if necessary. Also check license plate light.

Good luck. Took me 3 hours including trip to hardware store.
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