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Oops! Please disregard.....I'm not feeling very bright right now. The 18mm bolts and "pad holder" are removed because executor replaced his rotors at that time. Sorry!
 

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I watched a series of You tube videos on changing rear pads and rotors on an old (1988 I think) car. Can't recall make and model. Anyway, the rear change out looked somewhat more difficult than changing front pads and rotors...to some extent because the car had an emergency brake mechanism involved with pushing the calipher as the pads wear down. The guy had to buy a special tool head (or do what he had to do with channel locks) which he said was an awkward uncertain thing.

Some questions:

Does anybody know of a DIY video for Caliber rear brake repair?

Are the rear brakes in a Caliber inherently more difficult to repair than the fronts?

Will the rotors wear down after 48,000 miles if the pads still have a decent margin of braking material left?
 

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Some questions:

Does anybody know of a DIY video for Caliber rear brake repair?

Are the rear brakes in a Caliber inherently more difficult to repair than the fronts?

Will the rotors wear down after 48,000 miles if the pads still have a decent margin of braking material left?
Caliber rear discs have a tiny drum in them for the parking brake, so not as difficult as the old style mentioned in your post above.

Use the videos you saw as a general guide.

Download a copy of the service manual (link available on the forum) and use it for details.
 

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Thanks again, DK, the service manual is very helpful.
Yes - but I'll be really happy when the Chilton or Haynes book comes out - they are a much more interesting read than a factory manual.
 

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Gave me confidence in changing brake myself. Worked perfectly. Thank you!
 

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Ahh, good thread! My front brakes have a tiny squeal sometimes at very low speed low pressure stops. Might as well looks at replacing the pads/rotors soonish!
 

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Ahh, good thread! My front brakes have a tiny squeal sometimes at very low speed low pressure stops. Might as well looks at replacing the pads/rotors soonish!
May only be brake dust buildup.
 

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good thinking prop, I'll just pop the wheels off one of these days and clean up the brakes with some brake cleaner. See if that helps it before I do the replacement.
 

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Hi

I just did all the brake pads but...

-the old rear pads have 2 thin metal sheet spacers on the exterior, while the new ones come with none in the box.

What are these metal spacer for? to keep the pads closer to the disk?

thx
 

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Hi

I just did all the brake pads but...

-the old rear pads have 2 thin metal sheet spacers on the exterior, while the new ones come with none in the box.

What are these metal spacer for? to keep the pads closer to the disk?

thx
Those are shims and they help reduce brake squeal. They should be removed from the old pads and adhered to the new ones.
 

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Thanks for the post. Looks pretty straight forward. Like other brake rotor and pad replacements i've done. Just never done the brakes on this Dodge Caliber. Thanks again!

Stay Safe, Bob
 

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You rock! But dam those clad lug nuts

Thanks for posting. I got hung up on my passenger front. Those clad nuts deformed on me ( what a dumb design) . I'm going to try and pry off the "clad" and see what I'll have to work with m

your instructions are very helpful though, so thanks
 

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I decided I was going to try my hand at replacing my rotors and pads on my stock 2008 Caliber SXT. I got these because I wanted a small upgrade from stock and thought the slotted black looked nice.

http://www.amazon.com/Max-KT052681-...rId=002&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleType=5

I'm doing the job this coming weekend or next, depends on what day I can get off work. If all goes well then I'll also be doing my wifes 2006 Subaru Impreza, dealer quote ( she never goes anywhere else) $1000 for pads and rotors.
 

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Thank you guys for such an amazingly simple break down on this. If it weren't for my rotors being both warped and corroded I would have had it done in no time.
Took 30 minutes of wiggling and pounding just to break my passenger side rotor loose.
Other than the tools that I didn't have this saved me roughly $230 over every shop estimate I got.

If I could only figure out the rep system on this site.
 

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