[cajmurph1]

I know there are a thousand threads talking about no start / no crank issues and I think I have read most of them. I have a 07 R/T that is sitting dead. I hate to go to a dealer because I fear the digging will cost more than the car is worth. So I'm hoping someone can throw out some ideas. On the surface, this feels like a faulty WCM. But there are a couple of symptoms that don't seem to align. Here's what I have...
Problem - This week went to leave and the car would start easily, run for 2 seconds and then stop - no sputter - just a quick startup and stop. After this happened a few times, it decided it didn't even want to try anymore. Key turns forward, everything powers up - but no crank. No Codes. The other issue is that now the locks won't work from the key fob. Playing around with that, I set the security system off and it would not stop by inserting and turning the key forward. The car didn't care. I struggled with that until I read about the trick to reset the SKREEM. That worked like a champ and I was able to continue troubleshooting with the alarm off. (I can now hook the horn back up )
-
Here is what I checked out...

• Checked both key fobs and replaced batteries. WCM still doesn't respond.
• Battery holds charge just fine and is pretty new. Have not had tested for Amp output. But also doesn't help to jump.
• Inspected the relays for corrosion - no obvious issues. Tried swapping a few to eliminate possibility of bad relay.
• Inspected the wires between the relay and fuse box. One wire with insulation worn off but not broken - repaired.
• Checked all the fuses - no issues that I could find. Power to fuses 27/28 when I turn the key forward.
• Tried disconnecting the battery and setting cables together overnight to discharge.
• Reviewed the TSB 08-007-08 REV. A (MY 07, 08)No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM SKREEM.

- Tried the reset sequence - remove the IOD fuse with key out of the ignition. Leave out for 30 seconds and put back in - Assuming fuse 17 - DID NOT HELP!

I keep thinking its the WCM - but i'm thrown off by 1) the fact that the car initially started for 2 seconds a few times before going to no-crank. and 2) if the reset process in the service bulletin doesn't temporarily reset the WCM - is it something else?
Any other ideas on what to check? Is it likely the WCM even though it's not a perfect fit on symptoms?

I'm assuming if it's the WCM I could replace but can't reprogram... So that will suck.

Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks1

If it starts for two seconds and turns off, it's not reading your key. I have the key with the keyless entry remote. That thing will pop open in my pocket and the antenna will get cut by whatever is in my pocket. So that caused a similar problem for me. Is the security light on the dash on? I have a

I know there are a thousand threads talking about no start / no crank issues and I think I have read most of them. I have a 07 R/T that is sitting dead. I hate to go to a dealer because I fear the digging will cost more than the car is worth. So I'm hoping someone can throw out some ideas. On the surface, this feels like a faulty WCM. But there are a couple of symptoms that don't seem to align. Here's what I have...
Problem - This week went to leave and the car would start easily, run for 2 seconds and then stop - no sputter - just a quick startup and stop. After this happened a few times, it decided it didn't even want to try anymore. Key turns forward, everything powers up - but no crank. No Codes. The other issue is that now the locks won't work from the key fob. Playing around with that, I set the security system off and it would not stop by inserting and turning the key forward. The car didn't care. I struggled with that until I read about the trick to reset the SKREEM. That worked like a champ and I was able to continue troubleshooting with the alarm off. (I can now hook the horn back up )
-
Here is what I checked out...

• Checked both key fobs and replaced batteries. WCM still doesn't respond.
• Battery holds charge just fine and is pretty new. Have not had tested for Amp output. But also doesn't help to jump.
• Inspected the relays for corrosion - no obvious issues. Tried swapping a few to eliminate possibility of bad relay.
• Inspected the wires between the relay and fuse box. One wire with insulation worn off but not broken - repaired.
• Checked all the fuses - no issues that I could find. Power to fuses 27/28 when I turn the key forward.
• Tried disconnecting the battery and setting cables together overnight to discharge.
• Reviewed the TSB 08-007-08 REV. A (MY 07, 08)No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM SKREEM.

- Tried the reset sequence - remove the IOD fuse with key out of the ignition. Leave out for 30 seconds and put back in - Assuming fuse 17 - DID NOT HELP!

I keep thinking its the WCM - but i'm thrown off by 1) the fact that the car initially started for 2 seconds a few times before going to no-crank. and 2) if the reset process in the service bulletin doesn't temporarily reset the WCM - is it something else?
Any other ideas on what to check? Is it likely the WCM even though it's not a perfect fit on symptoms?

I'm assuming if it's the WCM I could replace but can't reprogram... So that will suck.

Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks1

I had the same problem. It turns out it was the antenna in my key fob. The stupid thing would pop open in my pocket and the thin wire they use to make it would get cut by whatever was in my pocket. Is your security light staying on? I have a j5234 pass through programer. So I didn't have to go to the dealer. But if you have an multimeter for an ohmmeter take your fob apart and check for continuity on the that has the copper wire wrapped around it.should get around .01 to 0 ohms.

 

[cajmurph1]

I realized I hadn't posted here to bring this thread to a close... After literally tracking seemingly every wire I could imagine, I gave up and took it somewhere to be traced by a professional. Ultimately, we found that when my son first had the issue with the 2 second start and shutdown, he checked some fuses to see if anything was blown. The mechanic figured out that one of the important fuses went back IN THE WRONG SLOT! Not sure how many hours we worked on this. But it ultimately was the issue John Galt called out early on. Once that fuse was in the right spot, we reprogrammed the keys and it was up and running in no time. We didn't even think of the possibility that we had inadvertently put one of the fuses back in the wrong slot.

Been running fine for a month now. Still no clue why the car decided it didn't like the keys anymore. But if it happens again, I have the scanner and codes necessary to fix it.

Thanks again to all for your responses. Although it's embarrassing to admit what happened. It's just a lesson learned for anyone else. It's easy to do.

For shame John Jangle Gingenhimer Smith. If that is your real name? For shame. lol. Happens to the best of us. And it definitely happens to the worst. But that fuse box is a hot mess. The one on mine was getting bad connection so often that I took it out and put one from a magnum I believe hard to get it to fit but I got it. Then my brother caught it on fire, it never ran again. RIP Caliber. P.S. they don't like to be on fire. Fire hot.