[vonnopt]

I know there are a thousand threads talking about no start / no crank issues and I think I have read most of them. I have a 07 R/T that is sitting dead. I hate to go to a dealer because I fear the digging will cost more than the car is worth. So I'm hoping someone can throw out some ideas. On the surface, this feels like a faulty WCM. But there are a couple of symptoms that don't seem to align. Here's what I have...
Problem - This week went to leave and the car would start easily, run for 2 seconds and then stop - no sputter - just a quick startup and stop. After this happened a few times, it decided it didn't even want to try anymore. Key turns forward, everything powers up - but no crank. No Codes. The other issue is that now the locks won't work from the key fob. Playing around with that, I set the security system off and it would not stop by inserting and turning the key forward. The car didn't care. I struggled with that until I read about the trick to reset the SKREEM. That worked like a champ and I was able to continue troubleshooting with the alarm off. (I can now hook the horn back up )
-
Here is what I checked out...

• Checked both key fobs and replaced batteries. WCM still doesn't respond.
• Battery holds charge just fine and is pretty new. Have not had tested for Amp output. But also doesn't help to jump.
• Inspected the relays for corrosion - no obvious issues. Tried swapping a few to eliminate possibility of bad relay.
• Inspected the wires between the relay and fuse box. One wire with insulation worn off but not broken - repaired.
• Checked all the fuses - no issues that I could find. Power to fuses 27/28 when I turn the key forward.
• Tried disconnecting the battery and setting cables together overnight to discharge.
• Reviewed the TSB 08-007-08 REV. A (MY 07, 08)No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM SKREEM.

- Tried the reset sequence - remove the IOD fuse with key out of the ignition. Leave out for 30 seconds and put back in - Assuming fuse 17 - DID NOT HELP!

I keep thinking its the WCM - but i'm thrown off by 1) the fact that the car initially started for 2 seconds a few times before going to no-crank. and 2) if the reset process in the service bulletin doesn't temporarily reset the WCM - is it something else?
Any other ideas on what to check? Is it likely the WCM even though it's not a perfect fit on symptoms?

I'm assuming if it's the WCM I could replace but can't reprogram... So that will suck.

Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks1

 

[John Galt]

I had this problem with my 2007 R/T, and I reprogrammed the keys to the car and that solved the problem.

To reprogram the keys to the car yourself, you will need two things:

1. The PIN code for the car, this is a four digit code that you need to pair a key to the car. You need to get this at the dealer. Bring your registration that proves you own the car, go to the parts desk and ask for the key programming PIN code. They may try to get you to pay for the dealer to pair the car, or they may say that the codes might not work or might only work for 24 hours. My dealer threw up all those excuses and more. I told the dealer I understood all that, but "I just want the code for my car". The relented and gave me the code for free.

2. You also need a key pairing computer. These are expensive. I decided to pay up and buy a fancy code reader, an Autel MX-808. This is a code reader that will also perform functions on your car like key pairing, bleeding the ABS pump, throttle position sensor calibration, etc. It turned out that I had three cars, each with only one key and I wanted spares, so the cost of paying to have an extra key paired to each of the cars came close to the cost of buying a code reader that could do it, plus I got all the other functions. I just bought keys on Amazon, had them cut at a locksmith ($8/each), and then programmed them. If you just have one key to program, then you might just have it done by someone else (Dealer, locksmith, etc.), it will probably cost $100 or so.

You might want to have the dealer do this, because with one hour of labor, they will likely determine if the key just needs to be re-paired or if the WCM is bad. Doing it yourself, you might go through the process of paying to re-pair your keys only to find out that your WCM is bad, and then having to put in a new one and then go get the keys paired again, and then, worst case, finding the problem is something else entirely.

 

[vonnopt]

John - thank you very much for the feedback! I was a bit concerned that it might be something beyond a simple reset of the keys just because it went from running to the 2 second startups and finally to the no crank/no start. And with the reset not working, it seemed like a crap shoot. I'll have to consider whether to buy a nice code reader. I'm sure that I would use it for quite a few things over the years that I can't diagnose myself now. While I could probably pay a dealer to reprogram the keys, I'm assuming they must have the car at the dealership to do it. That would require towing in my case - which would be another $100. So the decision may be getting easier
It sure would be nice if you could get these reset codes somewhere other than just through the Dodge dealer. But it is what it is.

Thanks again for the feedback. I'll be trying to make a decision on this in the coming days. Luckily I'm not having to leave home very much right now.

 

[vonnopt]

John - one other question... When looking at the MX-808 scanner, it looks like you get a 1 year subscription to a service but then you have to buy additional years. Is that subscription needed? or is that just for cases where I want to get additional functions for newer cards that come out? I was expecting it's all built in up front. I'd probably use it a few times in the first year anyway. But what then?

Just wondering if there is a financial commitment there past the purchase.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[John Galt]

When looking at the MX-808 scanner, it looks like you get a 1 year subscription to a service but then you have to buy additional years. Is that subscription needed?

Once the subscription expires, the scanner will keep working fine, but you won't get any new features or newly supported cars unless you pay for another subscription.

My subscription runs out in a few months and I'm not planning on renewing. The unit will continue to work perfectly fine with the cars I own and otherwise look after.

 

[vonnopt]

I've been working a lot of hours and haven't had much time to look at this thing. But I did research and ended up ordering the newer release of the Autel 808. Yesterday I went to the dealer and was lucky enough to find a parts guy that knew exactly how to look up the PIN and provided it without any hassle. ...that might earn them some future business.
While waiting for the scanner to arrive, my son and I did some wiring harness inspection and tried to make sure there weren't any other obvious problems. I found 2 wires coming out of the connector that sits under the relay box that were partially worn through but still holding on by a few strands. I patches these up but don't think they were related to this issue specifically. Once we received the scanner, we were able to successfully reprogram the FOBs and those are also now working. I scrubbed and reran the scan and am now down to a new set of codes B2204 and U0141. One is a ECU mismatch and the other is the dreaded lost communication to the TIPM. It looks like I have more reading to do. But hopefully I am getting closer.

Thanks again on the recommendation on a code reader. Black Friday sales got me a bit of a break. And while they are a bit pricey... I'm sure I'll have uses for this thing for years to come.

I'll keep digging on the other stuff and post back my findings.

 

[John Galt]

Is the car running now?

For the TIPM issue, get a can of contact cleaner and clean all the connectors, check, clean and tighten all the ground points, battery and alternator connections.

 

[vonnopt]

No - still no crank at all. I'll get some contact cleaner and see what I can do. I took out the fuse box and looked for any damaged wires, damage to the board, etc.. Didn't find anything there. So I'll try cleaning all the grounds and see what happens. They all looked OK. But I'll clean regardless.
That B2204 ECU Configuration mismatch and the U0141 are still my main culprits. I'll keep after it as time permits. Keyfobs reprogrammed, seems like it should start - but now just a faint click when I try to start it. No attempt at a crank.

Thanks! Paul

 

[cajmurph1]

I know there are a thousand threads talking about no start / no crank issues and I think I have read most of them. I have a 07 R/T that is sitting dead. I hate to go to a dealer because I fear the digging will cost more than the car is worth. So I'm hoping someone can throw out some ideas. On the surface, this feels like a faulty WCM. But there are a couple of symptoms that don't seem to align. Here's what I have...
Problem - This week went to leave and the car would start easily, run for 2 seconds and then stop - no sputter - just a quick startup and stop. After this happened a few times, it decided it didn't even want to try anymore. Key turns forward, everything powers up - but no crank. No Codes. The other issue is that now the locks won't work from the key fob. Playing around with that, I set the security system off and it would not stop by inserting and turning the key forward. The car didn't care. I struggled with that until I read about the trick to reset the SKREEM. That worked like a champ and I was able to continue troubleshooting with the alarm off. (I can now hook the horn back up )
-
Here is what I checked out...

• Checked both key fobs and replaced batteries. WCM still doesn't respond.
• Battery holds charge just fine and is pretty new. Have not had tested for Amp output. But also doesn't help to jump.
• Inspected the relays for corrosion - no obvious issues. Tried swapping a few to eliminate possibility of bad relay.
• Inspected the wires between the relay and fuse box. One wire with insulation worn off but not broken - repaired.
• Checked all the fuses - no issues that I could find. Power to fuses 27/28 when I turn the key forward.
• Tried disconnecting the battery and setting cables together overnight to discharge.
• Reviewed the TSB 08-007-08 REV. A (MY 07, 08)No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM SKREEM.

- Tried the reset sequence - remove the IOD fuse with key out of the ignition. Leave out for 30 seconds and put back in - Assuming fuse 17 - DID NOT HELP!

I keep thinking its the WCM - but i'm thrown off by 1) the fact that the car initially started for 2 seconds a few times before going to no-crank. and 2) if the reset process in the service bulletin doesn't temporarily reset the WCM - is it something else?
Any other ideas on what to check? Is it likely the WCM even though it's not a perfect fit on symptoms?

I'm assuming if it's the WCM I could replace but can't reprogram... So that will suck.

Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks1

If it starts for two seconds and turns off, it's not reading your key. I have the key with the keyless entry remote. That thing will pop open in my pocket and the antenna will get cut by whatever is in my pocket. So that caused a similar problem for me. Is the security light on the dash on? I have a

I know there are a thousand threads talking about no start / no crank issues and I think I have read most of them. I have a 07 R/T that is sitting dead. I hate to go to a dealer because I fear the digging will cost more than the car is worth. So I'm hoping someone can throw out some ideas. On the surface, this feels like a faulty WCM. But there are a couple of symptoms that don't seem to align. Here's what I have...
Problem - This week went to leave and the car would start easily, run for 2 seconds and then stop - no sputter - just a quick startup and stop. After this happened a few times, it decided it didn't even want to try anymore. Key turns forward, everything powers up - but no crank. No Codes. The other issue is that now the locks won't work from the key fob. Playing around with that, I set the security system off and it would not stop by inserting and turning the key forward. The car didn't care. I struggled with that until I read about the trick to reset the SKREEM. That worked like a champ and I was able to continue troubleshooting with the alarm off. (I can now hook the horn back up )
-
Here is what I checked out...

• Checked both key fobs and replaced batteries. WCM still doesn't respond.
• Battery holds charge just fine and is pretty new. Have not had tested for Amp output. But also doesn't help to jump.
• Inspected the relays for corrosion - no obvious issues. Tried swapping a few to eliminate possibility of bad relay.
• Inspected the wires between the relay and fuse box. One wire with insulation worn off but not broken - repaired.
• Checked all the fuses - no issues that I could find. Power to fuses 27/28 when I turn the key forward.
• Tried disconnecting the battery and setting cables together overnight to discharge.
• Reviewed the TSB 08-007-08 REV. A (MY 07, 08)No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM SKREEM.

- Tried the reset sequence - remove the IOD fuse with key out of the ignition. Leave out for 30 seconds and put back in - Assuming fuse 17 - DID NOT HELP!

I keep thinking its the WCM - but i'm thrown off by 1) the fact that the car initially started for 2 seconds a few times before going to no-crank. and 2) if the reset process in the service bulletin doesn't temporarily reset the WCM - is it something else?
Any other ideas on what to check? Is it likely the WCM even though it's not a perfect fit on symptoms?

I'm assuming if it's the WCM I could replace but can't reprogram... So that will suck.

Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks1

I had the same problem. It turns out it was the antenna in my key fob. The stupid thing would pop open in my pocket and the thin wire they use to make it would get cut by whatever was in my pocket. Is your security light staying on? I have a j5234 pass through programer. So I didn't have to go to the dealer. But if you have an multimeter for an ohmmeter take your fob apart and check for continuity on the that has the copper wire wrapped around it.should get around .01 to 0 ohms.

 

[vonnopt]

If it starts for two seconds and turns off, it's not reading your key. I have the key with the keyless entry remote. That thing will pop open in my pocket and the antenna will get cut by whatever is in my pocket. So that caused a similar problem for me. Is the security light on the dash on? I have a

I had the same problem. It turns out it was the antenna in my key fob. The stupid thing would pop open in my pocket and the thin wire they use to make it would get cut by whatever was in my pocket. Is your security light staying on? I have a j5234 pass through programer. So I didn't have to go to the dealer. But if you have an multimeter for an ohmmeter take your fob apart and check for continuity on the that has the copper wire wrapped around it.should get around .01 to 0 ohms.

Thanks for the feedback - I'll try that out. The puzzling part is that the run for 2 seconds and then hard stop only occurred for a few tries. Then it decided to not even engage the starter. That's when we discovered the key fobs not working. Reprogramming the key fobs worked as far as using them to lock/unlock the doors again. But it did nothing to help with starting the car. The security light on the dash stopped flashing with the reprogram of the key fobs. Why it did the 2 second run for a few tries and then never again - that is what really has me confused. When I try to start it, you turn the key forward, hear the normal few clicks, then try to crank. I hear 1 slight click under the hood - but no engagement of the starter.
My other big problem right now is a lack of time. I'll probably mess with it a couple of evenings this week to see what else I can find. I will check the voltage on the key fobs though.

 

[vonnopt]

Tried a few more checks and inspected many more wires with no findings. The B2204 is still where I hope to focus. Oddly, I did notice when running the scanner that the VIN showing for the ECU is the correct VIN but missing 2 characters when compared to the one on the vehicle. This basically shows the VIN mismatch. But I haven't changed anything there. So I'm not sure I can just reset the VIN in the ECM. I'm getting very close to calling out the tow truck. If anyone has any last minute things to try - please let me know. Thanks!

 

[Aleks]

Are there 2 sequences here. The immobiliser will cut the engine after two seconds if it does not match.
The start requires a transponder in the key. I do not know enough just following along your story with some logic.
You now have good keys, but communication is intermittent with the receiver. Or is it farther along, the communication bus, dodgy wiring, or at the ECU.

 

[vonnopt]

Hi - thanks for your response... At this point, I am getting U0141 as the primary code and a B2204. So it's not communicating at all with the ECU I checked all the wires for any obvious issues even through the left front fender where all that stuff gets stashed. I thinkj I have ruled out the relays and the TPIM is full of good fuses and no noticeable issues with it. I thought about replacing the WCM - but I'm almost leaning towards just having it towed in rather than just starting to randomly replace parts. I was able to reset the keys so the FOBS work. But they still don't even attempt to turn over the car. Dash and all power is good. WHen this all started, it did the 2 second shutoff a few times and then decided it didn't even want to turn over at all. FOBs were dead. Security was even stuck on where I had to reset it to turn off the horn and light show. But that reset stuck and I was able to program the fobs back to working. But I"m stuck at this point.

If you have any ideas - I'm willing to try. - even cleaned wire contacts just in case - even though there wasn't corrosion to deal with on this one.

 

[672aq]

Cleaned the battery terminals & clamps with a wire brush?

Had the battery tested for CCA?

 

[chrisf2012]

This is a super long shot but something worth checking:

There's a bare wire that goes between the starter solenoid and the starter motor itself...check it to see if it's broken due to corrosion. Apparently once these cars get old enough this becomes an issue.

 

[vonnopt]

I realized I hadn't posted here to bring this thread to a close... After literally tracking seemingly every wire I could imagine, I gave up and took it somewhere to be traced by a professional. Ultimately, we found that when my son first had the issue with the 2 second start and shutdown, he checked some fuses to see if anything was blown. The mechanic figured out that one of the important fuses went back IN THE WRONG SLOT! Not sure how many hours we worked on this. But it ultimately was the issue John Galt called out early on. Once that fuse was in the right spot, we reprogrammed the keys and it was up and running in no time. We didn't even think of the possibility that we had inadvertently put one of the fuses back in the wrong slot.

Been running fine for a month now. Still no clue why the car decided it didn't like the keys anymore. But if it happens again, I have the scanner and codes necessary to fix it.

Thanks again to all for your responses. Although it's embarrassing to admit what happened. It's just a lesson learned for anyone else. It's easy to do.

 

[cajmurph1]

I realized I hadn't posted here to bring this thread to a close... After literally tracking seemingly every wire I could imagine, I gave up and took it somewhere to be traced by a professional. Ultimately, we found that when my son first had the issue with the 2 second start and shutdown, he checked some fuses to see if anything was blown. The mechanic figured out that one of the important fuses went back IN THE WRONG SLOT! Not sure how many hours we worked on this. But it ultimately was the issue John Galt called out early on. Once that fuse was in the right spot, we reprogrammed the keys and it was up and running in no time. We didn't even think of the possibility that we had inadvertently put one of the fuses back in the wrong slot.

Been running fine for a month now. Still no clue why the car decided it didn't like the keys anymore. But if it happens again, I have the scanner and codes necessary to fix it.

Thanks again to all for your responses. Although it's embarrassing to admit what happened. It's just a lesson learned for anyone else. It's easy to do.

For shame John Jangle Gingenhimer Smith. If that is your real name? For shame. lol. Happens to the best of us. And it definitely happens to the worst. But that fuse box is a hot mess. The one on mine was getting bad connection so often that I took it out and put one from a magnum I believe hard to get it to fit but I got it. Then my brother caught it on fire, it never ran again. RIP Caliber. P.S. they don't like to be on fire. Fire hot.

 

[candicelflynn]

Thanks for the feedback - I'll try that out. The puzzling part is that the run for 2 seconds and then hard stop only occurred for a few tries. Then it decided to not even engage the starter. That's when we discovered the key fobs not working. Reprogramming the key fobs worked as far as using them to lock/unlock the doors again. But it did nothing to help with starting the car. The security light on the dash stopped flashing with the reprogram of the key fobs. Why it did the 2 second run for a few tries and then never again - that is what really has me confused. When I try to start it, you turn the key forward, hear the normal few clicks, then try to crank. I hear 1 slight click under the hood - but no engagement of the starter.
My other big problem right now is a lack of time. I'll probably mess with it a couple of evenings this week to see what else I can find. I will check the voltage on the key fobs though.

How did you reprogram your keys? 8 only have one fob, it's not working and I've been stuck I'm 5gis lot for 4 days!

 

[John Galt]

How did you reprogram your keys? 8 only have one fob, it's not working and I've been stuck I'm 5gis lot for 4 days!

It will be cheaper to pay to have it done if you only need one key paired. Look at my post linked below and do step 1 (go to the dealership and get the pin code for your car, it is free). Then call a locksmith and have him meet you at your car, give him the pin code and he should be able to pair your key fob.

Check this post if you want to do it yourself:

Another No Crank / No Start issue with no key Fob function

I know there are a thousand threads talking about no start / no crank issues and I think I have read most of them. I have a 07 R/T that is sitting dead. I hate to go to a dealer because I fear the digging will cost more than the car is worth. So I'm hoping someone can throw out some...

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