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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If by chance I need to upgrade my alternator for my stereo setup, what kind of alternator should I be looking for? As in, is it possible to find a alternator from a different vehicle with higher amps to replace the stock one? If so, which vehicles, or what kind of alternator should I be looking for? Thanks.
 

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Being that everything electrical is interconnected through the Can Bus, I would seek the advice of your dealer. It will help in keeping your warranty intact.
 

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yeah and unless you're running enough power to light up a city block you shouldnt have to upgrade your alt, if your lights are dancing there are other ways of fixing that ;) that are both less expensive and less intrusive to the vehicle, also when we upgrade alts for out big big stereos, we usually just have the stock one rebuilt to higher specs :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, so now please excuse my ignorance and for turning this into an audio thread, but would I just need to add an extra battery or two? Not that I'd do it myself, just need an idea of what materials I will need, and the cost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The amp is a 2400 watt amp. This is 2400 watt true rms, unlike the bogus wattages put on lanzars and such when they only have 2 30 amp fuses claiming that they are 1000 watts rms, knowing the amp rating wouldn't allow such at the volts our cars are able to put out. So this is 2400 @ 1 ohm, and then supposedly it dwindles down from there. I am getting this powerful of an amp cuz my speaker is rated at 1000 watts, and wires down to 3 ohms, so I need something to max it out at 3 ohms. Money isn't an issue right now really, cuz I can always buy one piece at a time, but I just think if I'm going to spend money, might as well spend it right.
 

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oooo i like the 2500D hehehehe and yes you do need upgrades, number one big three the car...

go to a welding supply store or something similar and get about 20ft of 0/1ga cable, then make a cable from the bat to the frame then from the batt to the alt and from the engine to the frame, just follow the ones that are already there, dont take the stock ones out just add these as a second line, this will help power flow through the cars electrical system better and makes a huge difference!

next get a real battery, at least an optima yellow top, and that should be fine for upgrades, that amp is big compared to general consumer amps but nothing compared to what we run in alot of street class cars :)

when you wire the amp in the car use 0/1 for the power and the ground and you will be fine :)

that amp wont draw a whole lot of current at 3ohm, i know guys that run them at 0.5ohm daily and dont have anything other then what i listed above and they have no problems at all.... a 3ohm load on that amp wont be any trouble for the car...
 

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man you guys... you arent running high current stuff yet hahaha we had every intention of putting 2 atomic 5000.1's in my car this year but new classes and new rules means im not going that big until next year... and that would have been with one batt and the stock alt! not to mention at least 10 runs of 0/1 cable hahahah
 

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the amps pull strait off the battery as long as you have a good battery then you'll be fine, until you hit big big power..

and by big power i mean these!

* Digital mono block amplifier
* Dual MOS-FET power supplies
* Efficiency over 86%
* RMS power handling---1500w @ 4 ohms @14.4V
* RMS power handling---3000w @ 2 ohms @14.4V
* RMS power handling---5000w @ 1 ohms @14.4V
* Signal-to-noise ratio 90dB
* Phase shift 0-180 degree
* subsonic filter: 10-60Hz
* lowpass filter: 35-300Hz
* Input sensitivity: 200mV -6V
* Bass remote controller with telephone wire & click volume & blue LED
* 3 way protection: over voltage, speaker short & thermal overload
* Total harmonic distortion:< 0.1%
* Continuously variable 0 – 18dB Bass Boost
* Built - in variable 0 – 18dB per octave x’over
* Power Consumption< 490A <------------- THATS CURRENT DRAW!
* Size: 24.50” x 10.60” x 2.60”


they also make a 7000.1 and a 10,000.1 is in the works, its just not stable yet....
 

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there are some options here... you can A. (low $$) buy a capacitor for or amp and put it in front of your amp B. (mid $$)buy a battery and put it in front of the amp like the capacitor C. (large $$) take your alt off and take it to a rebuild place and ask them to put beefier stuff in it....


here is a way to check to see if you need one of these... at night while your sitting in front of your house... turn your radio up and your head lights on (car started of course) if the lights dim then your drawing to much power... if not then your fine
 

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just dont waste your money on caps... other then that thats good advice :) the light dimming will be fixed by upgrading the big three, the problem with caps is they are like a band-aid that doesnt stick well, yes they release a jolt when needed but then they drain while charging up again..... no big stereo that is done right uses a cap. they use good batteries and lots of fat wire :)
 
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