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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got the agp wastegate installed last week on my srt from modern. I read other threads regarding wastegates but none hit my question so hopefully someone can help me. The part was installed professionally by a dodge dealership not done by myself. As i'm driving and hitting 5psi this loud hissing noise comes from the engine. It's so loud i can hear it over my radio even when the windows are closed. With the stock gate i used to feel an awesome pull at 3,000rpm but now it seems to loose that pull. I'm consistently hitting 11psi and the dealership seems to think its correct and should make that noise even though it sounds terrible. I have asked numerous people and no one seems to know anything about it. Can anyone please tell me if that loud hissing is normal with the new wastegate or should it be like the old gate. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Mouser is the SRT4 guy with all the answers. Wait for him and you'll have your answer.
 

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NO, it's not normal. Your dealer doesn't know squat on tuning. They barely ever see turbo cars anyhow.

Give me all your mods list and I'll set you up. I can give you tips on adjusting your WGA yourself and get this thing boosting properly without leaks.
 
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OK. This to me sounds like you have a massive leak in the system, probably from a mis-adjusted WGA. Its not impossible they didn't tie the uppipe host clamps properly as well so check if that black hard pipe connecting the front-mounted intercooler (FMIC) is tight on all joints going down to the turbo.

On MS1 you should, in 3rd gear, be able to peak around 15 PSI with 12 PSI sustained.
It will be a bit less in 2nd gear and less so in first. Thats the 300tq limit acting on you.

The AGP wastegate actuator normally comes with the 12lb spring. Don't be fooled: this does not correspond to the 12PSI you get. With the 12lb spring you should be able to reach 18 PSI. Just NOT on pure MS1 because it will still want to limit your boost.

There is no magic solution for WGA adjustments. Its a trial-and-error thing. If you could put a pic of your WGA, I would be able to confirm that its the adjustable version. Or just confirm that it has an adjustment bolt on the shaft, somewhere mid-point from the WGA itself and the turbo.

The best way to go about this is to install the WGA with a 2mm preload on the WGA actuator arm rod. That is, when you bolt the thing in place, the actuator arm should be 2mm too short to reach the waste gate pin on the hot side of turbo. This force you to pull on the rod (pre-loading the spring) to attach both pieces.

Then, it's a matter of gunning it on the road or a 1/4 track. Check your local tracks. one should have test-and-run events where you can just run your car on there to test and tune your car.

To boost more, you need to shorten the rod and you do this by turning the adjustment nut clockwise (to screw the rod IN the rod female tip that is on the turbo side).

DON'T overdo it. Generally, 1 full turn is about 1PSI difference. Use half-turn increments. Fine tune with 1/4 and then 1/8 turn increments.

The adjustment nut on the AGP should be a 7/16. Use an open key to adjust and BE CAREFUL. its way hot down there. Its not a bad idea to cover the heat shield or turbo with a non-synthetic cloth (don't melt any synthetic tissues on there) or even use an oven mitten.

I would have included a couple of pictures but the photos I have for this were part of a WGA and solenoid delete how-to I wrote on the blue site. They would be more confusing than anything.

I'd like a photo of your engine bay though. In particular, the back of the engine. I want to see how they dealt with the WGA and the heat shield. Normally, you have to modify the heat shield to be able to reuse it with aftermarket WGAs. Here is how I modified mine:

 
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Well?.....................
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Holy hell you know your stuff. I'll post a picture, i'm moving apts so i'm going back and forth, i'm doing the best i can. I had no internet for a few days. I can get them up as early as tom morning and see what you think. Thanks again so much with the help and i'll try adjusting it. Never came across something like this so it will be a process for me.
 

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Looks like they tried to do a complete solenoid delete. I cant see details of your Stock surge valve. Its a half-cup size silver round thing stuck onto the side of the turbo cold side, under the AGP wastegate, where the red vac line should have been stuck to.

Try to snap a pic of that for me.

I any case, when you do a solenoid delete, you dont leave off crap like that behind.

I have a how-to on complete solenoid delete and aftermarket wga installation. Exactly what you need to fix your car.

Try removing your air box (you can leave the pipe but remove the filter box) and take photos of your surge valve and the vac lines running under the air box. I'll guide you in fixing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay here are a few more pics, i'm going to follow your instructions from .net tom. Sorry i did the best i could with the room i had in the car. The red line is still connected into the surge valve though. Hopefully it will fix the terrible hissing

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=htt...46401_545446401_6669591_8266110_n.jpg&h=16320


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._492156216401_545446401_6669592_3517075_n.jpg


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos..._492156231401_545446401_6669593_1754940_n.jpg


http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=htt...56401_545446401_6669594_4121382_n.jpg&h=16320
 

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Looks also like you have the MPx Rice Plate (BOP) clone installed. You hadn't given me that details.

Given your WGA is seemingly not adjusted properly, that big hissing sound you hear MIGHT just be the BOP venting away.

Now, it could be venting for a couple of reasons.

Given your Surge Valve is still under Solenoid control (was hard to confirm from e photos but we will assume it is), the ECU might just be releasing pressure on the valve because you are OVERBOOSTING, even for MS1 standards.

OR

The surge valve might be venting because your WGA does not build enought boost (underboosting), keeping the surge valve from closg up. Thus, you are just venting your vacum or low-PSI boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah i'm sorry i completely forgot about the rice plate. So in the end with following your directions do you feel it will eliminate the hissing? And in reading the directions, am i going to remove the red line that is connect to the surge valve? Again thank you so much, this has been a thorn in my side and you seem to be the only person who knows anything about it.
 

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Given you are not clamped, i would keep solenoid 2 to the surge valve. You could clean up the engine by remoing unused lines though.

Also, you can delete the bleed line going to the air box. You will spool faster and will help reduce the hissing.

But understand that with the BOP, it will always hiss in the -5 to 2 PSI. Thats normal. But you will soon lean how to drive with the bop.
 

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okay great, so to make sure i'm correct the green line is Sol#2 and the red line is Sol#1. I just want to be sure i'm connecting the right line to the surge valve and i'm done asking questions!
Green, WGA, Solenid #2
red, Surge Valve, Solenoid #1

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
awesome i just checked the post, i have that in my hands right now. The the red wire was barley connected to the surge valve. I gently pulled it and it came right off.... so i'm going back out and since i'm not running a vac line from the yellow T to the surge valve, do i just put back the black line that was originally connected or can i cap it off? and if you have time, why are we switching from red sel#1 to green sel#2 to the surge valve?
 

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NO, it's not normal. Your dealer doesn't know squat on tuning. They barely ever see turbo cars anyhow.

Give me all your mods list and I'll set you up. I can give you tips on adjusting your WGA yourself and get this thing boosting properly without leaks.
Looks also like you have the MPx Rice Plate (BOP) clone installed. You hadn't given me that details.

Given your WGA is seemingly not adjusted properly, that big hissing sound you hear MIGHT just be the BOP venting away.

Now, it could be venting for a couple of reasons.

Given your Surge Valve is still under Solenoid control (was hard to confirm from e photos but we will assume it is), the ECU might just be releasing pressure on the valve because you are OVERBOOSTING, even for MS1 standards.

OR

The surge valve might be venting because your WGA does not build enought boost (underboosting), keeping the surge valve from closg up. Thus, you are just venting your vacum or low-PSI boost.
. Hey man I recently got my hands on an 08 csrt4 with only 47k miles. I’ve put a high flow cat. The agp waste gate and a i3 tune from Diablo. The issue I’m having is with the vacuum lines. I have about 10psi in first through 3 and lots of power. But after that it builds slow and only gets to around 7 and feels just sluggish. The waste gate is very tight right now. Turned a few times toward engine bay. I ran the waste gate line directly into the intake of turbo. And disconnected the one feeding into the air box. All lines on the second solenoid are not being used and one on the first one isn’t either. Any help would be fantastic. Also I’m new to the turbo game and have been reading all the forms I can find. Thanks
 
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