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hi im new to this forum i have a 2007 caliber se i replaced the factory radio with a clarion cz 100 and got it hooked up but now i have a popping noise coming out of the drivers side speaker and the one behind it i called crutchfeild and they are sending me a new unit does anyone know what might have caused this it didnt do that with the factory radio any help would be grately apprecieated :loser1:
 

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Welcome to the Crew... Layout some photos bro!
 

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The Italian Admin
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:wavey:Welcome to the ForumZ Family!
Some of our radio guru will chime in soon. :smileup:
 

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The Organizer
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hi im new to this forum i have a 2007 caliber se i replaced the factory radio with a clarion cz 100 and got it hooked up but now i have a popping noise coming out of the drivers side speaker and the one behind it i called crutchfeild and they are sending me a new unit does anyone know what might have caused this it didnt do that with the factory radio any help would be grately apprecieated :loser1:
Welcome. I moved your thread because questions are not allowed in Newbie Checkin. Regarding the issue. There was a TSB put out by Dodge to replace the 2007 speakers for that issue. It could be that the new stereo puts out just enough additional power to force the issue to finally emerge. If the new replacement HU causes the same issue, your only option is to upgrade the speakers. Don't bother with the TSB. The warranty is no doubt up and it would make no sense to pay to replace the OEM speakers with new OEM speakers. Aftermarket is the way to go.
 

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Super Squirrel
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The guru has spoken:worshippy:
 
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In the off chance that it wasnt the HU swap that caused the issue and the TSB isnt needed make sure that you solder the connections properly between the CanBUS harness and the HU harness. Proper connections are a must.

And as always with an aftermarket HU aftermarket speakers are a must. They will sound 10x better.
 

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Super Moderator
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Does sound like the right channel and you are being sent a new head unit.

Only extra suggestions I can add are swap the leads on the head unit to confirm the symptom moves from the right to the left side.

Or while you are waiting try the factory unit again to confirm the speakers are still OK and were not blown by the new head unit.
 

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The Organizer
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You can verify the speakers werent blown if you have a DMM.
That's not necessarily true. An excessive excursion of the voice coil can cause mechanical damage without causing electrical damage. I've repaired speakers before where the voice coil had overheated just enough over time to cause it to warp. It resulted in the coil rubbing against the magnet, which makes a "popping" sound. These speakers still worked, and still ohmed as electrically good.
 

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When the coils get to hot it changes the resistance. If you verify with a DMM on the resistance even if they got to warm it will read wrong. Anything can cause coil rub even a mis-aligned pole piece. In OEM speakers you arent going to mechanically push them to their limits with a HU that only does 20RMS max if it gets hit by lightning. Atleast not far enough to shift the pole piece to cause coil rub. The surround or spiders may come unglued.
 

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When the coils get to hot it changes the resistance. If you verify with a DMM on the resistance even if they got to warm it will read wrong. Anything can cause coil rub even a mis-aligned pole piece. In OEM speakers you arent going to mechanically push them to their limits with a HU that only does 20RMS max if it gets hit by lightning. Atleast not far enough to shift the pole piece to cause coil rub. The surround or spiders may come unglued.
Coil resistance will increase slightly when hot go back to normal when at room temp. Also, an ordinary DMM does not have fine enough resolution to detect these minor changes.

If the surround or spider is damaged - the voice coil will rub on the magnet - I've seen that so many times. The voice coil alignment is very critical and depends on all parts of the speaker's suspension to be intact in order to preserve alignment.

Also - the OEM speakers in the Caliber are not very "strong" even the stock radio can probably blow them if played loud enough long enough - Mopar on line sell these beauties for $ 7.50 a piece, so how good can they be.
 

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The Organizer
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When the coils get to hot it changes the resistance. If you verify with a DMM on the resistance even if they got to warm it will read wrong. Anything can cause coil rub even a mis-aligned pole piece. In OEM speakers you arent going to mechanically push them to their limits with a HU that only does 20RMS max if it gets hit by lightning. Atleast not far enough to shift the pole piece to cause coil rub. The surround or spiders may come unglued.
Generally with a DMM, the resistance, as Dave mentioned, will be very small. If it is big enough for the DMM to read it, it means the coil got hot enough to short one or more windings together. Your scenario is strictly in the case of a totally fried speaker. Some of the things I saw when repairing guitar amps and PAs would make you shake your head in disbelief.;)

Coil resistance will increase slightly when hot go back to normal when at room temp. Also, an ordinary DMM does not have fine enough resolution to detect these minor changes.

If the surround or spider is damaged - the voice coil will rub on the magnet - I've seen that so many times. The voice coil alignment is very critical and depends on all parts of the speaker's suspension to be intact in order to preserve alignment.

Also - the OEM speakers in the Caliber are not very "strong" even the stock radio can probably blow them if played loud enough long enough - Mopar on line sell these beauties for $ 7.50 a piece, so how good can they be.
Agreed.;)
 

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Coil resistance will increase slightly when hot go back to normal when at room temp. Also, an ordinary DMM does not have fine enough resolution to detect these minor changes.

If the surround or spider is damaged - the voice coil will rub on the magnet - I've seen that so many times. The voice coil alignment is very critical and depends on all parts of the speaker's suspension to be intact in order to preserve alignment.

Also - the OEM speakers in the Caliber are not very "strong" even the stock radio can probably blow them if played loud enough long enough - Mopar on line sell these beauties for $ 7.50 a piece, so how good can they be.
Power doesnt blow speakers, clipping does. If you do it correctly even an aftermarket HU wont blow the stock speakers. Chances are the majority on this forum cant tell an audible difference in a clipped speaker and an unclipped speaker playing music. Almost everyone here that blows a speaker could verify via the DMM method. Of course its always good practice to push at the center of the cone lightly to listen for rub. Atleast I always do, but you also have to pay attention to the spiders.
 

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The Organizer
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Power doesnt blow speakers, clipping does. If you do it correctly even an aftermarket HU wont blow the stock speakers. Chances are the majority on this forum cant tell an audible difference in a clipped speaker and an unclipped speaker playing music. Almost everyone here that blows a speaker could verify via the DMM method. Of course its always good practice to push at the center of the cone lightly to listen for rub. Atleast I always do, but you also have to pay attention to the spiders.
Power blows speakers. You hook a 20W speaker to a 200W amp and hit it with 200W of unclipped power, and it's going to fry. Wire can only carry so much current before getting hot and melting. Clipping can come from the amp, or the cone being over driven. There are 2 ways to blow a speaker; fry the voice coil, or tear the cone.
 

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Power doesnt blow speakers, clipping does. If you do it correctly even an aftermarket HU wont blow the stock speakers. Chances are the majority on this forum cant tell an audible difference in a clipped speaker and an unclipped speaker playing music. Almost everyone here that blows a speaker could verify via the DMM method. Of course its always good practice to push at the center of the cone lightly to listen for rub. Atleast I always do, but you also have to pay attention to the spiders.
Why doesn't excess power blow speakers?
What is clipping?

(you might want to check my profile before answering)

Did a quick bench test - using my oscilloscope with a small amplifier and speaker. You are correct, you can see clipping long before you can hear it. You can't really hear clipping
until the amplifier is pretty much turning a sine wave on its input to a square wave on its output (very serious clipping)
 
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