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Discussion Starter #1
As a pet project I was thinking about adding a door keypad. I had one on one of my previous cars and I really enjoyed the convenience.

I'm thinking about repurposing a Ford keypad (as a weather-proof set of buttons) and interfacing with a microcontroller, like an Arduino. I almost have the source code finished. Interfacing with the locks shouldn't be any harder than an aftermarket keyless entry install, which I have done before. Cutting a hole in my door is extremely scary, but would look the best when finished. I'd just get a keypad with a bezel around it so that it will look clean when I'm done.

So a few questions. Has anyone done something like this before? Any lessons learned?

I noticed Ford actually had a keypad that just stuck on the outside of the door. It programmed just like a second keyless entry remote, so there was no wiring needed. Is there anything like this for Dodge, maybe aftermarket?
 

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Well it sounds like a good idea, i like it. i would do it and have all door handles shaved. that would look truly keyless.
 

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thats bad ass i had an alarm that had a keypad on my old car but the key pad was stuck the the inside wind screen and all u had to do was tuch the wind screen to unlock it
 

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I forget my PIN No's for my Credit & Debit Cards . So I would probably have to pack up driving & buy a Bicycle!!!
 

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but if you need to get somthing from your car and you dont have the keys with you like you r at a famly get to gether and you need somthing put you better half has the keys

and you still have a working key fob all the systum does is tie in to the door lock solenoid

and isent hte point of moding your car to stand out from the other well can u think of a caliber that has a key pad i thing its amazing ans i really want to see pic whwen its all done
 

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I think its one of those things like having a remote start on an car when you still need to insert the key in to unlock the steering wheel before you go
 

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since owning my caliber, i have locked my keys in the car twice.

both times I got mucho lucky... first time about 200 miles from home but a chrysler dealership was just down the street. I got them to cut me a key off the VIN.

second time not as far away, but still equally a hassle... locked them inside, on a military base after hours, and my fiance had a key back at her house...

i got lucky both times. a keyless code like that would be awesome for me.
 

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since owning my caliber, i have locked my keys in the car twice.

both times I got mucho lucky... first time about 200 miles from home but a chrysler dealership was just down the street. I got them to cut me a key off the VIN.

second time not as far away, but still equally a hassle... locked them inside, on a military base after hours, and my fiance had a key back at her house...

i got lucky both times. a keyless code like that would be awesome for me.

that to i have never locked my keys in the car

o and the reason you have remote start is to heat the car up an the winter and to cool it off in the summer
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's good, I wouldn't need to program my own board, but I'd still have to cut/drill a hole in my door.

Honestly, I'd almost rather make my own board so that it would work the way I wanted. With that package above, I'd have to enter a key combination to lock the doors as well. On my lincoln, I'd just press the last two together. If there were a commercial solution that didn't have me drilling a hole in my door I'd buy it today.

As it is, I'll probably design it around an arduino board, buy this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...m14QQhashZitem290264562597QQitemZ290264562597
and use it only for the keypad, wiring into the buttons in a nice weatherproof enclosure, and disabling it internally.

I'd have to drill a small hole for the wires to go through, but not cut out a whole rectangle. I'd hate to have cut a rectange and then it not be straight. Also, I wouldn't have to worry much for internal clearance, over other keypads from other vehicles.

I'll definitely post back when I get the board finished, and again if/when I install it. It will be more work this way, but it will also work exactly the I want, however I want.

---

Also, for debating the usefulness...
I'm always running out to my car to grab something real quick only to realize it's locked and I have to go back and hunt for my keys (I'm terrible about where I throw them) Also, if I'm swimming somewhere, I can just lock my keys in my car and travel light.

As far as worrying about a dead battery scenario, one could always leave a plain (non-chipped) key in those magnetic holder things to get you back if the keypad is dead. That's only if you aren't super paranoid about that kind of thing, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Research

Ok guys, I can see two different ways of accomplishing this task. I can either have my module interface with the door controls, like most aftermarket keyless entry kits do, or I can interface it with a keyless entry remote.

Wiring it to a keyless entry remote stashed inside the door seems kind of hackish, but it would allow me to be able to unlock just the driver's door and optionally the other doors, which I cannot do from the door controls. Also, there's alot less wires to splice into this way. I would want to power it off the car so I wouldn't have to pull my door apart when the battery would go dead. I think I could buy any dodge key for the caliber and program it in, since I don't really need the key part.

I don't really know where to find out which wires available inside the door I could use for power. I think there's actually a 5v power available for the door module. (this would be better for my microcontroller than 12v) I wonder if it would mind if I used a little of that.
 

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Since the cally has this Canbus system, will you be able to tap in the wires without making the whole system go haywire?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Not 'everything' communicates via canbus data. As per the12volt.com, regular aftermarket keyless entry modules are compatible.

It says Lt. Green/Dk. Green wire to (ground?) with 250 Ohm resistor is Power Unlock, and the same wire with 1000 Ohm resister is Power Unlock.

I'm heavily leaning towards throwing a keyfob in the door, though. I just have to feed it the 1.5 volts? that the battery would.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Progress

Ok, so I have my device mostly programmed. I soldered together a test keypad today with 5 buttons. I have the arduino programmed to listen to the key presses and light a green led when the combination is right. You can pad the combination with as many presses as you want, as the array gets shifted for each press.

Also, I've programmed a timeout, so the array gets reset after 4 seconds.

I still have to implement the extra unlock with another keypress, and the lock via last two keys.

Does this forum let you post YouTube video? I'll probably take a quick demo vid soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Little More

Ok, I popped open my key and the battery is 3v. My multimeter read 3.30v from it. This is awesome because the arduino board actually has a 3.3v out that I can use.

Does anyone know where I can find which wires in the door supply power, and at what voltages?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes, I have the service manual, but it's not easy to find this. The pages you posted seem to show me what connects to what, but no pinouts for the connectors.

I think Page 8N-5 seems to imply 5v on pin 8 on the driver door lock switch mux, but it's not clear.
 
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