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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've changed the O2 sensor the one before the catalytic converter. And I changed coolant sensor it doesn't feel like it's getting gas but I hear the fuel pump turning on I am stumped I don't know what to do please help someone.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I'm getting my fuel pressure test at 60 then slowly walks off to about 45. But when I go to crank it it's a crack no start, funny thing is is that I'm smelling no gas even if I'm pumping it. I purchased those two sensors going to install them in the morning thanks for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I bought this car with a misfire code on cylinder 2. But when I bought it from this guy he brought it to me and it was warmed up and it runs great when it's warmed up. But when you start it in the morning that thing sounds like the timings off and it dies but when it gets up two temperature it runs smooth. I live in Alaska I usually have the car in the garage. It's been super cold up here the last couple weeks and I had to leave the car out side for a day I had my boiler replaced so I decided to plug it in as one of those radiator heaters. When the plumbers got their work done I went to go start it and pull it back in the garage because what and never started back up and I get all these codes. Give me a 350 for a 351 **** or even the 318 I'll tear them shits down and rebuild them but these damn relays in a box I rather go take him to the junkyard and get him smashed and collect my 600 LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm about to go down and change this O2 sensor but the answer your question John, it just turns over and doesn't start I don't even smell any gas before I could smell gas cuz it would flood out.
 

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Not starting when cold could also be a bad ignition module/coil.

Which could show as lean to the O² sensor, and cause misfire codes - code(s) depending on how many bad/weak coils there are.

Random misfires could be a grounding issue, too (Calibers are known for this).

Running lean would heat up the engine.

Unburned fuel from a bad coil would heat up the catalytic converter.

But sensors first - they're cheap, "easily" installed, and probably at their end of lifespan anyway.

Have you tried starting it with your spare key?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I haven't yet I'm charging the battery, would you happen to know where the ground is for the coils? And there's a little black capacitor by the battery side of the engine when I unplugged it it was black and gunky would that play a part in the no start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I replaced both of the sensors 02 replace the IAT replaced the temperature sensor cleared all the codes and still no start. Seemed like it wanted to after cranking it for a while was smelling a little bit of gas. Any more ideas would be appreciated thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Only one code low voltage for the battery but I've been cranking it a lot. It felt like it wanted to start it was catching and then nothing sputtered out. Just can't figure it out. What do you think about the ignition capacitor could that be messing it up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did all that, changed all the sensors that were suggested .serpentine belt ,spark plugs..... don't get it I leave it outside for a day when I left it it was running and now nothing. This is my sister's car and her last day off .she works TSA at the Airport, if I can't get it running today ,I hate to say it. but I'll have to get a tow to a shop or something. I'm a carpenter by trade very handy person... I like to fix things I own myself .and the thought of of paying somebody for something that I couldn't do myself doesn't sit right with me.
 

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When nothing makes any sense it can be the wiring loom. Common pace to look is under the battery tray Also the relay box behind the bumper in the left wheel well (driver USA).
If it is not obviously visible chaffing then it can be corrosion which involves more investigation but at visible exposed terminals.
Once you reach the point of exposing looms and unravelling wires to test continuity the hours mount up in a shop.
 

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Stop firing the parts cannon and let's look at things logically. You need air, spark, and fuel for an engine to run so check those first.

First, you have a misfire on cylinder 2. Swap the ignition coils between cylinder 2 and another, and see if the misfire follows to the new cylinder. If it does, bad ignition coil. If it does not, inspect spark plugs.

If you have a scan tool check to see what your fuel trims are...they should hover around zero. If they're high then the car thinks you have a lean fuel condition and is enriching the system. If they're negative then the car thinks you're running rich and is cutting back on the fuel. Both can cause starting problems.

The fact that you hear the pump is helpful but not gospel...if the filter in the pump is clogged the pump could be running with little to no fuel flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Stoichiometry. I've done all this sir ,swapped coils around, bought new coils ,cleared codes, read codes ,changed things. I can't get it to start. Although one thing is different now I am starting to smell gas again after cranking it. Before I could crank it for 5 minutes and not smell a thing I've got to go buy a new battery off trash the one I have. I love you guys a suggestions man keep them coming cuz one of them is going to be money I know it is LOL
 
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