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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife drive a 2007 Caliber 2.0 se cvt transmission, new software and all done by the dealership during regular maintenance. Now out of warranty.
When the car sits for a day at least, when she tries to start the car it usually takes a turn or two before the engine cranks. When she first discovered the problem I thought it was the starter, I pulled the starter out and took it to get tested, it was still good but continued to get hot even out of the car. Replaced it anyway.
New battery, Texas heat is brutal on batteries.
Tune ups done regularly.
I was thinking its the fuel pump.
The car runs great except that it needs a little foreplay ignition wise to get it started.
I don't know where to begin checking, I've been a Chevy man my whole life and Mopar is turning out to be a whole new monster. Here's to hoping the caliberforumz geniuses can help me out.
 

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Last plug change? Your present mileage? Try this test: turn car on, but don't start. Count to 15 then try starting. If it starts right away; it's likely the fuel pump. If it's still slow it could be the SKREEM (ignition immobilizer), camshaft position sensor, or crankshaft position sensor. Could also be the starter relay. You should check for any codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It has about 95,000 give or take a hundred. The spark plugs are due for a change, though the problem persists even on the first start after changing. The fifteen second wait did seem to help, I told her to continue waiting before turning it over for the next few days to see if she has positive results every time. I will do more research on the other things you mentioned. I read through another thread earlier on a topic recently posted about a faulty harness and I don't think that is the issue. Too soon to tell, I'll get back in a few days with results. Thanks for the insight.
 

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It may also help to add some fuel system cleaner to the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll give it a shot, the engine responds when the key is turned without waiting for fuel it sounds almost like there isn't enough combustion to turn it all the way over. Any fuel system cleaner or is there a preferred brand/type?
 

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I'll give it a shot, the engine responds when the key is turned without waiting for fuel it sounds almost like there isn't enough combustion to turn it all the way over. Any fuel system cleaner or is there a preferred brand/type?
I'm partial to Gumout. Being you're in Cypress; you must have a lot of salt air. You could have corrosion on some connections and specifically the grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update: I just watched my wife start her car, when she turned the key to the accessory position to let fuel pump lift I heard a rapid clicking noise. The car sputtered a bit when she turned it completely, she then turned it again and it chugged a bit still not turning completely over. She turned the key back and tried it again and the engine chugged and started after about 3 seconds. I hear the fuel pump lift fuel, but what could be the source of the rapid half second series of clicks. It sounds like the clicks that come from the wheel of fortune wheel (obscure, I know it's my best description).
 

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Check the starter relay. It's mounted on the inside driver's fender with the 3 fan relays. It could be the connections are corroded or the coil in it is shot. Without it powered properly it will chatter.
 

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My 2007 2.4 CVT has, just twice in the last two weeks, started slowly on the return trip from the grocery store. It's got 49K miles on it, and I don't know the maintenance history, so I'm starting at the beginning with diagnosing. I'm having the battery checked this week.
 

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If that's the original battery, Amy, then you've done really well with it and it's time for a fresh one. I won't recommend one, because there are a lot of choices, but I've always had great service out of the Autozone Duralast Gold series and Interstate batteries too.
 

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It was an 18-month-old Interstate Mega-Tron 75 month battery. Sears tested it, the starter and alternator and replaced the battery.
 

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Double check and make sure they replaced the battery and didn't just charge it and rip you off. The reason I say that is because years ago when I worked for Autozone, I had an elderly lady come in and ask if I could test her battery. She stated that she'd just come from Sears and had a new Die Hard battery installed, but her car died as she pulled into the parking lot to go to the grocery store next door to us. When I popped the hood, she had an old AC/Delco battery that had the sides swollen on it and was leaking around the caps. Corrosion all over the cables and terminals. I told her she didn't have a new battery and she showed me a receipt for over $120 from Sears that clearly showed a new Die Hard. I called Sears and talked to the service manager and told him that if they didn't come and refund her money, I was going to call the cops. He was there within 15 minutes with cash in hand. I thanked him and sold the lady a Duralast battery for sixty some odd bucks. She was thrilled. I told her to never go to Sears again and she said she'd come see me first! I trust Sears about as much as I trust the stealerships! And that is not at all.
 

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Double check and make sure they replaced the battery and didn't just charge it and rip you off.
Okay, I checked, and found...my old battery. Apparently, the battery and alternator checked out okay. It says so right in the paperwork. I had authorized a new battery but they were supposed to remove that from the bill and didn't. It looks like a billing error, and I've been refunded. It would have been a nice gesture if they'd also removed the charge for checking the battery, and I'll be watching my visa bill carefully for that refund, but I'm going to give them the benefit of doubt. Only because the paperwork backs up their story.

Thanks for the heads up.
 

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My 2007 2.4 CVT has, just twice in the last two weeks, started slowly on the return trip from the grocery store. It's got 49K miles on it, and I don't know the maintenance history, so I'm starting at the beginning with diagnosing. I'm having the battery checked this week.
2 times over 2 weeks does not make an issue. A short drive after pulling the load a starter pulls and with the colder weather is likely nothing. I would let the car sit overnight and check the battery voltage before starting. If it reads anything over 12.3V it is getting weak, but still has a fair amount of life left. Over 12.5V means it is a good battery with plenty of life.
 

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Happy to help, Amy, but sorry to see that Sears is still ripping people off on a regular basis. I wouldn't let them touch anything I own. Not even a lawn mower.
 

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2 times over 2 weeks does not make an issue. A short drive after pulling the load a starter pulls and with the colder weather is likely nothing. I would let the car sit overnight and check the battery voltage before starting. If it reads anything over 12.3V it is getting weak, but still has a fair amount of life left. Over 12.5V means it is a good battery with plenty of life.
12.36V, after sitting for a day and a half.

A few days ago it was *very* slow to start coming home from the grocery store.

I'm having my spark plugs replaced next week. That doesn't seem like a possible fix since the problem is very intermittent, but it probably needs to be done, anyway.
 

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12.36V, after sitting for a day and a half.

A few days ago it was *very* slow to start coming home from the grocery store.

I'm having my spark plugs replaced next week. That doesn't seem like a possible fix since the problem is very intermittent, but it probably needs to be done, anyway.
You're borderline. With the winters Michigan has; peace of mind and the smart thing to do would be to replace the battery now to avoid being stranded this winter.
 
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