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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New here, but I wanted some opinions. I just got an 07 caliber se, automatic transmission. Of course right off the bat it needed struts, ball joints, etc. (CEL came on very early while driving - auto zone said low coolant. Added and it never went off) Also had a nasty oil leak coming from the timing cover, which I got fixed right away as it was leaving a puddle every night. I got the valve cover gasket replaced at the same time. I drove it home fine. Then the next day on the way home from work, I was at a light and when it turned green and I went, it slightly jerked half way through the turn.I figured my foot twitched or something. Then later that day I had to leave to somewhere and right as I left, the CEL started blinking and the car started like jerking/shaking/vibrating pretty aggressively and seemed to have lost some power. I couldn't tell very well as I was in a neighborhood. I turned around and haven't driven since. Researched some and decided to replace all 4 spark plugs and ignition coils. Started just fine, but when I put it in reverse to test drive it, it didn't budge. It jerked a little like it was about to roll back like it should have, but it didn't move. It did the same with drive. Also I read that other people have had a 'whirring' type noise and it has been their transmission. I've had a similar noise as well but I figured maybe it was just how the car sounded. The noise reminds me almost like when you turn the wheel all the way and it makes a certain noise? I don't know how else to explain it. The car only has 98,xxx miles. I wanted to be as descriptive as possible to get the best opinions from you guys. This is all that I've gotten done on it/have noticed. I wasn't sure if the spark plugs/ignition coils had anything to do with it. I might try to drain the tranny fluid and refill it and see what it does. Also I read I can use the oil dipstick to check the tranny fluid, is this safe/accurate as long as it is cleaned very well? (I would just stick it where the tube is next to the battery correct?) Sorry for this being so long but I wanted to be as clear as possible. Hoping I don't have a hefty fine on my butt. Thanks so much for reading!!! (P.s. my jeep has done this exact thing but while I was driving and I added tranny fluid and it worked perfectly, but the caliber has a sealed transmission so it just couldn't be that easy!!)
 

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Welcome to the ForumZ.

It may have gone into "limp" mode , this is to protect engine/tranny when
certain fault codes are stored in system.
The CVT is about due for servicing so that route to go anyway.
Have the fault codes read and start from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the ForumZ.

It may have gone into "limp" mode , this is to protect engine/tranny when
certain fault codes are stored in system.
The CVT is about due for servicing so that route to go anyway.
Have the fault codes read and start from there.
thanks for the welcome and response. I've bought a code reader and here are the codes I got:
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature) - Generic
P0452 Evaporative emission system pressure sensor / switch low - Generic

It listed that there were 4 codes, but it just repeated those two same codes, but at the top of the screen it said $07E8Pd instead of just $07E8. (Not sure if this mattered or not). When I got the timing cover oil leak fixed, they also filled my coolant, but the CEL was still on when I got the car back, and when it started blinking/car started shuttering. So could the thermostat be bad like it's kind of saying? What should I do with these codes/what exactly does the second code mean? Could this cause the car not to move even though it's in drive or reverse? Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I've been researching some more and read that the thermostat could be stuck when the temperature reads low. I had been noticing that the car takes FOREVER (even while driving) for the temperature gauge to start moving up. It never shows overheating though. Even though it takes forever for the gauge to move up, the heat feels hot very quickly, like it should. Again, I figured it was just how the car was. (I've only ever had jeeps! I don't know dodge!) So is this another sign I should start at replacing the thermostat? Also see that there are TWO thermostats?! I guess it would make most sense to replace both?
 

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Yes there are 2 thermostats in the Caliber and if indeed you are going
to change it's advisable to do both rather to play a guessing game
of which could be the problem.
I would suggest you download the service manual from the manuals
section if you have not done so already , it can be a great help.
Check/inspect the wiring/connectors in the areas where previous
work has been completed , other than that I am not a mechanic
so you may have to resort to paying someone to resolve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Okay I replaced both thermostats. Temperature gauge went up a lot quicker. CEL was still on, same codes! Car would still not move when in drive or reverse. Checked transmission fluid with oil dipstick, showed it was low. It was very clean though. Is this an accurate reading since it is an oil dipstick and not transmission? I cleared the codes to see if maybe that helped, it didn't. What do I do now?
 

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Seek professional help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Just an update in case anyone is wondering: I went out this morning and disconnected the battery to see if resetting the computer, if you will, would maybe help (in addition to erasing the codes). I did that and it started right up. I put it in drive and it jerked like normal and then there was like a loud pop noise, like something came unstuck, and then it started rolling forward. It went in reverse and then drive again just fine, but there was a noticeable grinding noise. I'm assuming this is from the suspension that I need replacement parts of. Which kind of sucks that it was probably this stupid conclusion, but I had to change my spark plugs anyway and my thermostats also because they were bad. I'm going to take it in asap now that it moves. (Will take a short neighborhood test drive beforehand). Also might have just been brakes sticking to the rotors. Guess I may not have put enough acceleration into it when trying to move it (I was scared I'd break something). Good, yet exhausting experience!
 
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