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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Salinas, CA
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    Default Spark Plug change tip

    Hi,
    Decided to change the plugs at 90K miles. I don't have a socket that holds the plug but discovered that the coil assembly does. After loosening I used the assembly to grasp the plug and remove. Repeated for installation. When installing I found that by just inserting the plug far enough into the assembly I was able to turn it just enough to thread the plug a bit in before interference prevented further turning.
    I bought the car with 45K miles and don't know if the plugs were ever changed. Found NGK. Could these be original? I'll probably just clean and regap them and put them back in at 180K unless I have problems.
    Jim F.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Delhi, ON, Canada
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    451
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    Default

    Toss them in the garbage. Plugs cost about $15 for these cars. I run copper plugs and they get changed between 30-40k km.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Lake Wales, FL
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    9,370
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    Default

    I agree with Tom. These cars are MEANT to run the copper plugs and get changed every 30,000 miles. Easy peasy and your engine will thank you for it. You're way past due for a plug change. You need to look at your air filter too, while you're at it.
    "Only two things are infinite, the universe and stupidity... and I'm not sure about the former."
    Albert Einstein

    Charlie Patterson












  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Salinas, CA
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    Default

    I wasn't asking for anyone's opinion. I was trying to provide advice that someone might find helpful in changing the plugs. I did ask if anyone knew of the type of plug that was originally installed. Also, I noticed that there was some type of lubricant that prevented the rubber sleeve of the coil assembly from adhering to the porcelain of the plug. Does anyone know what type of lubricant this is?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Rochester NY
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    248
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    Default

    The cars came stock with NGK plugs. The lubricant was probably dialectric grease, used to prevent water infiltration into the plug boot.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Salinas, CA
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    Default

    Hi chris,
    Thanks for the info. When I pulled the plugs they looked appropriate for the type of driving I do. I don't know but suspect that the plugs are original and the driving habits of the previous owner was not too different from mine; mostly city with occasional longer highway trips.
    There's still a fair amount of the lubricant around the top of the porcelain of the old plugs but as I don't change the plugs as often as others suggested, sticking is always a possibility. I could only find my 1/2" torque wrench so it's my intention to pull the coil assemblys and recheck with a 3/8" wrench. I thought I'd replenish the lube while I was at it. My concern is with whatever I use causing problems with the rubber cushioning. Judging by the minimal migration, it's pretty high temp.
    Jim F.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Delhi, ON, Canada
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    Default

    Well don't give people crap advice. COPPER PLUGS EVERY 30K NUFF SAID. Champions run far smoother then the NGK V power.
    Last edited by Tonatom; 02-03-2017 at 05:45 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Rochester NY
    Posts
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    Default

    While following what's in the owner's manual is usually the best advice, I have to disagree with what it says about spark plugs. I installed NGK Iridium plugs in my Cali when it hit 30K. It now has 71K and runs like a top. Given the fact that ECUs can adjust timing to deal with plug issues, mine has had zero problem with the Iridiums, and that Iridium plugs can last well over 100K miles, that's what I would recommend to anybody looking to change their plugs. I'm convinced Dodge used the cheaper copper plugs just to save a few bucks.

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