My, how the time and miles fly when you’re having fun! It seems like only yesterday that I wrote my 10,000 mile owner review of the Dodge Caliber. And it seems like only the day before that I picked up Bruiser from the dealership and took him home. Now, here I am, sixteen months later, typing up this 20,000 mile review.
I’ve been a member of this forum for just over one year now. In that time I’ve read thousands of comments from members about their Calibers. Most of them are good, a few of them are bad, and even fewer of them are truly unhappy. And that’s to be expected with anything that anyone has bought – be it a car, a TV, a ham sandwich or a pack of chewing gum. But usually if you fork over the dough for something, you’ve already got a fairly good idea of what you’re getting into.
Not so with the Caliber.
It was totally new. For Dodge, this was new chassis, with a n new engine, a new transmission, new performance management software and a new body style. None of it had been tried in a Dodge before. It was the first true "first" for them since the introduction of the LX platform cars (300, Charger, Magnum) and was replacing a vehicle that – for all its criticism – was a stalwart of their line that could easily have been re-tooled and forwarded on.
But the idea was to try something different. In fact, someone in the Dodge division must’ve had a good long-term memory, because, at one time, the corporate tagline for Dodge in their advertising was "Different." And if there’s one thing that the Caliber has been universally accused of, it’s being different.
"Alright, blowhard," you all are probably saying by now. "What does this blathering preamble have to do with a 20,000 mile review?" Good question. Here’s your answer:
Very few of us, especially the early buyers like me, knew what we were getting into when we bought our Calibers. Sure, we knew what we’d read in publications prior to or immediately after the Caliber’s release. We might have logged into a couple of review sites or discussion forums, we probably stopped by the dealership to see one in the flesh and take home a pamphlet/propaganda sheet. We may have even test drove one.
But when we bought, we made a tremendous leap of faith. We agreed with what we read and believed what we were told. We found it within ourselves to take a chance on a first-year production vehicle – which is the ultimate mistake according to many. We gambled with our $15,000 or $20,000 (or more) and threw the dice, praying that they wouldn’t come up snake eyes.
I’m very happy to report that, in my case at least, I threw a seven.
And so have a good many others here on the forums that also paid their money and took their chances. We all got a vehicle that not only looks distinctive, but one that also rides and drives distinctively. There really isn’t anything else quite like it on the road right now – including the Caliber’s distaff siblings; the Jeep Compass and Jeep Patriot.
So now we get to the meat of this review. I humbly offer my opinion of what’s right and what’s wrong with the Caliber after 20,000 miles of ownership. As with any review, this is strictly opinion-based. I know there are others who will disagree with some or all of my views. That’s great. Dissenting views are welcomed.
* * * * * *
The vehicle: 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT. 2.0 Liter inline 4 cylinder engine with Continuously Variable Transaxle (second generation). It is nicknamed "The Bruiser Cruiser," or just "Bruiser" for short. Mine is the base model with the only factory options being cruise (speed) control and fog lights. It was purchased new in April of 2006, with a build date of March 2006 (early build). At the time of writing, it has 20,079 miles.
Maintenance, scheduled: I have used Mobil 1 synthetic oil since the 6,000 mile mark. All filters used have been replaced with Mopar replacements. No "performance" enhancements (i.e., cold air intake or high-flow air filter) have been made. All service continues to be performed by the dealer from which I purchased it Even though I could easily use the 6,000 mile maintenance schedule, I choose to use the 3,000 mile schedule. Why? Simply because I wish to protect my investment. I see nothing wrong in doing so and never have.
I feel that sometime there is unjust ridicule directed at those who share my belief from others on this forum. "You’re wasting your money," we’re told. "It’s just a conspiracy between the oil companies and the auto manufacturers to say that you need to change your oil that often," the pundits claim. "It’s all just a manufactured myth to get you to spend money, like the Easter Bunny or Santa Clause." Sheesh, and they don’t even offer a [Spoiler Warning] before de-mystifying two heroes of millions of children around the world.
Well, to those who wish to chide me for my seeming stupidity, I heartily say "bugger off." You do what you want and I’ll do what I want. I won’t snipe at you for doing something I consider "stupid" and would appreciate it if you’d show me the same courtesy. And while you can cite whatever studies you want about the lifespan of oil, can you cite one in which a vehicle was harmed because it was too well maintained? [Steps off soapbox and gets on with review]
Maintenance, unscheduled: I had fuel injection maintenance and throttle body cleaning done at the 15,000 mile mark. Why so soon? See above rant. I learned that lesson a long time ago, after my father quit buying me cars and I had to start paying for them myself. So go ahead and mock me if you wish and snicker that I’m wasting my money if you must.
Other than this, there have been no issues with the vehicle that have required any special attention or non-scheduled service needs.
It is worth noting, however, that I have – at two different times – had the anti-lock brake malfunction indicator light. In both cases, the light remained lit until the vehicle was driven for a short distance and the ignition was turned off. Upon restart, the indicator acted normally. Electronic Control Module dumping at the next scheduled dealer visit revealed no fault codes or messages. Whatever the problem was, it was the best kind – self-fixing.
Engine: Purrs like a kitten. Runs like a watch. No signs of any leaks from gaskets or seals. My engine doesn’t burn more than a very minimal amount of oil between changes with no signs of blow-by. No knock, pings or ticks. It still has that slight harmonic shimmy at around 1050 RPM on idle-down after a cold start but I still don’t find it to be concerning. The GEMA design crew deserves applause for this effort. It’s tough to come up with a winning design the first time out, but they seem to have done it with this one thus far.
A number of others on these forums have suffered (and I do mean "suffered") from poor or non-existent throttle response in their Calibers. The problem seems to most commonly manifest itself when putting the engine under load from a cold start, thus bypassing the idle-down and warm-up interval. While this is normally the case, there also have been a few reports of this malfunction striking at any time under any conditions.
I can say that I’ve never once experienced this problem. DCX seems to have thus far been unable to diagnose and cure this problem to most of the owner’s satisfaction. I truly feel for these owners and believe that they are indeed having a legitimate problem that needs to be debugged and fixed immediately. Loss of power is nothing to make light of and, if it occurs at an inopportune time, can put the driver and passenger(s) in a potentially perilous situation.
I firmly believe that this is either a software problem or a sensor problem. Perhaps it’s some combination of both. I also firmly believe that this is not a problem with the engine or the fuel system (from a mechanical or engineering point of view, anyway). If it were, it would’ve shown up on many, many more vehicles than what’s been reported so far. And it would also be reported on other DCX platforms using the same engine(s) like the Jeep Compass and Jeep Patriot, or the Dodge Avenger. To my knowledge, it hasn’t been an issue on those vehicles
CVT Transmission: Over a year after its first use by a current Dodge model, the CVT is still a lightning rod for derision. There are enough technical threads on these forums that fully explain the mechanics of how it works, so I shan’t go into detail here. If you need to know, seek out on of these threads.
The dissenters typically fall into two camps: a.) those who think that the CVT should allow better acceleration than it does, and, b.) those who think it should provide better fuel economy than it does.
The former group has a point when they argue that other CVT-equipped vehicles offer better acceleration than the Caliber. They also forget the fact that, in most cases, those vehicles have both larger engines and larger transmissions. I tested two before I purchased my Caliber; a 2006 Ford Freestyle and a 2006 Nissan Murano. Both were considerably quicker off the line and didn’t suffer from what some have called ‘lock-up lag."
Dead-stop takeoff power (usually referred to as "launch") come from how much torque (power) gets to the wheels from the transmission by way of the engine. In the other vehicles I mentioned, both have considerably larger engines and transmissions than the Caliber models do. This has a lot to do with their "launch"-ability. But so does their transmission control software.
And that’s where the largest difference lies in the Caliber vs. the other CVT-equipped cars. The DCX techies have opted to use a relatively restrictive profile in programming their CVT. It’s not that the GEMA engines can’t put out the torque, it’s that DCX is afraid of over-stressing the transmission. When you substitute a steel belt and variable-geometry pulleys for conventional gears and bands, you really do need to worry about spinning and stretching the steel belt and wearing grooves into the pulleys.
So if read complaints about the Caliber not showing the get-up-and-go that people think it should, now you have an answer to their issues. And if it’s not the answer that you want to hear – and if you’re reading this before purchasing a Caliber – then you might want to strongly consider getting the standard manual transmission in lieu of the CVT. Honestly.
As for the complaint about fuel economy, it’s also an issue of vehicle weight. Like Eric Cartman from "South Park," the Caliber may not be fat, but it is big-boned. It’s about the heaviest car in its size class. That counts for a lot. So if you want a smaller-sized vehicle with better fuel economy and want to take advantage of a CVT, I suggest looking at a Nissan Versa or a Honda Fit.
Personally, I wouldn’t trade my Caliber or CVT for anything right now. I truly enjoy the smoothness of the acceleration and the easy of transition from uphill to downhill driving without the obvious shudder of dropping in and out of conventional gears. And I feel that I’m getting good economy from this setup, particularly after I got the Technical Service Bulletin TSB 18-031-07 upgrade performed on my vehicle. Until something better comes along, I’m a devotee of the CVT transmission and don’t plan on buying another vehicle with a conventional tranny unless I have absolutely no choice.
Performance: In a word: flawless. My Caliber has never failed to start, stop or go wherever I wanted it to. Every switch still works, all motors still motor without effort, the only light bulb to have burned out did so only because of an impact, and even my handy-dandy detachable cargo flashlight still shines like a beacon.
But let’s not confuse performance with "high performance." This is not a high performance vehicle. It wasn’t designed to be and it doesn’t transcend those design limitations. You won’t smoke the tires or break any 0-60 MPH time records and you won’t beat many Civics, Integras, Mazda3s, or Passats (that is, unless the driver is a shmoe). If you want to do that, I suggest checking out the SRT-4 version of the Caliber. The Se, SXT, SXT Sport or R/T won’t get it done.
Comfort: I’m not your average sized guy. Check out pictures of me from the August Caliber meet near Atlanta in the galleries section. I’m 6’ 1" tall, weigh 400 lbs., and have a 60" waist. Face it, they don’t build many like me. Also, they don’t build many for me. Anyone who’s close to my height and girth know that it’s tough to find a vehicle that will fit you comfortably. While I can buy jeans and shirts from the King Size or Big & Tall catalogues, neither yet offer automobiles for the vertical and portly.
Cubic inch for cubic inch, this is by far the most spacious "small" vehicle I’ve ever had the pleasure of sitting in. I never thought that I’d fit so comfortably in it just to look at it. But I do fit quite well. The door openings are plenty wide enough for my bulky frame to enter and exit without any discomfort or strain. The driver’s seat is plenty wide enough for my ample tukus, and the center console never seems to be in the way. Leg room? I have plenty with the seat all the way back. Lap room? Again, plenty with the steering column tilted all the way up.
If I have once complaint about the interior comfort, it’s the same one that everyone else has: the center console arm rest is too low. Aside from that, it’s like Dodge asked me how to lay out a driver’s compartment for big people that would fit into a car that wasn’t a land yacht. My highest praise goes to the designers for their great and thoughtful work!
Ride: My 79 year old mother-in-law absolutely loves the ride. That should be enough of an endorsement to satisfy anyone. If it’s not, then you’re beyond satisfaction.
Economy: With my 2.0 and the CVT, I average anywhere between 26 to 27 MPG in strictly highway driving conditions. While this is lower than the advertised window sticker rating, it does fall completely in line with the newly-released 2008 standards for actual vehicle fuel economy under the new EPA guidelines.
Those familiar with these forums have already read about the wildly differing observed fuel economy from a wide variety of owners. Long-time readers also know that if you want to maximize fuel efficiency with the CVT, you must accelerate very conservatively and keep your top cruising speed no faster than 60 MPH. If you do this on a regular basis, I swear that you’ll pick up at least another 2 MPG, sometimes more. I’ve tried it and it works.
But I’m also influenced by The Dark Side and, therefore, cannot regularly get the optimum economy from my Caliber. This is by my choice. It’s not the fault of the vehicle. I’m willing to settle for the MPG I’m getting because – compared to my last vehicle (a 2004 Chevy TrailBlazer) – what I’m getting now is a Godsend.
But, if you’re one who demands optimum economy, do as I say, don’t do as I do. Puppy it. Use reasonably slow acceleration off the line whenever traffic and safety permit. Keep the top speed at no more than 60 MPH. Keep the maximum RPM at or below 2,200 as much as possible. Don’t floor the accelerator – even when passing. Oh, and don’t pass unless absolutely necessary. Don’t drive around with a bunch of stuff loading it down all of the time. Leave your air conditioning off for as much as comfortably possible (it can save you as much as 2 MPG).
Do all of these things and I will tell you from personal experience that you’ll get as good gas mileage from the Caliber as you would from any other comparable hatchback/wagon.
Interior: The inside has held up quite well thus far. The fact that there’s more plastic inside of the Caliber than there is in a typical Hollywood starlet has often been a major criticism from the automotive press in their reviews of the vehicle. For me, it’s a non-issue. It’s an entry-level vehicle and I paid an entry-level price for it.
I can understand the criticism that when you get into an SXT Sport or an R/T there should be some kind of automatic upgrade to something else. And I kind of agree. But I’m still happy with what I’ve got. If you’re using this review to influence your potential buying decision and you have an aversion to plastic, then you honestly might want to consider another vehicle.
Even so, take this into consideration: despite the amount of plastic involved with the Caliber’s cockpit, my vehicle has no squeaks, rattles or pops. And I think that’s quite an achievement considering that most of the Interstate that I drive on is in about the same condition as a cow path. And none of the last three new vehicles I owned prior to the Caliber could share claim to this statement. I’m as impressed as I can be.
Tires: They are the stock 17" Firestone Affinity tires that came with the vehicle. They have been rotated and balanced every 6,000 miles and show no abnormal wear patterns and still have at least ¼" of tread left on them. Too bad they’re going to last for awhile yet.
These are the biggest disappointment for me regarding my Caliber and my only true gripe. These things are loud. Really loud. Ted Nugent loud. Loud enough that, at highway speeds – especially on concrete surfaces – if I’m going to listen to the radio I have to crank it into the low-to-mid 20s to drown out the tires. I wish I had a dB meter because I’d love to know really just how loud these things are. I know it’s not an alignment problem because I’ve had that checked by a trusted tire shop and because there’s no obvious wear patterns that are usually associated with under/over inflation or tow/camber issues.
Unfortunately, it will be sometime before I can do anything about it. I’m not really in a position financially right now to either replace the rubber or to try soundproofing as an alternative. Plus I hate to throw away good rubber just on general principle. Other people here claim not to have tire noise issues so maybe it’s just me. But I do know that my hearing isn’t that sensitive – particularly after the abuse it has had in my wasted youth from going to rock concerts without ear protection. But some of those others are also driving either SE’s with the 15" tires or R/T’s with the 18" tires. That also may make a difference as, when I test drove the first Caliber, it was an SE and didn’t have anywhere near the tire noise that my SXT does.
* * * * * *
I could go on, but I think that six pages should be enough to give you an idea of what you can expect from a Dodge Caliber in the future. If you’ve already purchased one, then there’s about a 90% chance that you know and agree with most of what I’ve discussed here. Caliber owners tend to be happier with their cars than what I’ve seen from other new owners of new vehicles. I guess it just comes from driving a "anything but cute" car.
If you’re using this review (or others) to influence your buying decision, all I can tell you is this: it’s the best driving, best running, most comfortable and most fun-to-drive car that I’ve ever owned. It’s part of the family. I love to drive it and it loves to be driven. From a vehicular standpoint, it’s the best investment I’ve ever made in a car in my 28 years as a driver.
Joe Kirsch
CaliberForumz.com
I’ve been a member of this forum for just over one year now. In that time I’ve read thousands of comments from members about their Calibers. Most of them are good, a few of them are bad, and even fewer of them are truly unhappy. And that’s to be expected with anything that anyone has bought – be it a car, a TV, a ham sandwich or a pack of chewing gum. But usually if you fork over the dough for something, you’ve already got a fairly good idea of what you’re getting into.
Not so with the Caliber.
It was totally new. For Dodge, this was new chassis, with a n new engine, a new transmission, new performance management software and a new body style. None of it had been tried in a Dodge before. It was the first true "first" for them since the introduction of the LX platform cars (300, Charger, Magnum) and was replacing a vehicle that – for all its criticism – was a stalwart of their line that could easily have been re-tooled and forwarded on.
But the idea was to try something different. In fact, someone in the Dodge division must’ve had a good long-term memory, because, at one time, the corporate tagline for Dodge in their advertising was "Different." And if there’s one thing that the Caliber has been universally accused of, it’s being different.
"Alright, blowhard," you all are probably saying by now. "What does this blathering preamble have to do with a 20,000 mile review?" Good question. Here’s your answer:
Very few of us, especially the early buyers like me, knew what we were getting into when we bought our Calibers. Sure, we knew what we’d read in publications prior to or immediately after the Caliber’s release. We might have logged into a couple of review sites or discussion forums, we probably stopped by the dealership to see one in the flesh and take home a pamphlet/propaganda sheet. We may have even test drove one.
But when we bought, we made a tremendous leap of faith. We agreed with what we read and believed what we were told. We found it within ourselves to take a chance on a first-year production vehicle – which is the ultimate mistake according to many. We gambled with our $15,000 or $20,000 (or more) and threw the dice, praying that they wouldn’t come up snake eyes.
I’m very happy to report that, in my case at least, I threw a seven.
And so have a good many others here on the forums that also paid their money and took their chances. We all got a vehicle that not only looks distinctive, but one that also rides and drives distinctively. There really isn’t anything else quite like it on the road right now – including the Caliber’s distaff siblings; the Jeep Compass and Jeep Patriot.
So now we get to the meat of this review. I humbly offer my opinion of what’s right and what’s wrong with the Caliber after 20,000 miles of ownership. As with any review, this is strictly opinion-based. I know there are others who will disagree with some or all of my views. That’s great. Dissenting views are welcomed.
* * * * * *
The vehicle: 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT. 2.0 Liter inline 4 cylinder engine with Continuously Variable Transaxle (second generation). It is nicknamed "The Bruiser Cruiser," or just "Bruiser" for short. Mine is the base model with the only factory options being cruise (speed) control and fog lights. It was purchased new in April of 2006, with a build date of March 2006 (early build). At the time of writing, it has 20,079 miles.
Maintenance, scheduled: I have used Mobil 1 synthetic oil since the 6,000 mile mark. All filters used have been replaced with Mopar replacements. No "performance" enhancements (i.e., cold air intake or high-flow air filter) have been made. All service continues to be performed by the dealer from which I purchased it Even though I could easily use the 6,000 mile maintenance schedule, I choose to use the 3,000 mile schedule. Why? Simply because I wish to protect my investment. I see nothing wrong in doing so and never have.
I feel that sometime there is unjust ridicule directed at those who share my belief from others on this forum. "You’re wasting your money," we’re told. "It’s just a conspiracy between the oil companies and the auto manufacturers to say that you need to change your oil that often," the pundits claim. "It’s all just a manufactured myth to get you to spend money, like the Easter Bunny or Santa Clause." Sheesh, and they don’t even offer a [Spoiler Warning] before de-mystifying two heroes of millions of children around the world.
Well, to those who wish to chide me for my seeming stupidity, I heartily say "bugger off." You do what you want and I’ll do what I want. I won’t snipe at you for doing something I consider "stupid" and would appreciate it if you’d show me the same courtesy. And while you can cite whatever studies you want about the lifespan of oil, can you cite one in which a vehicle was harmed because it was too well maintained? [Steps off soapbox and gets on with review]
Maintenance, unscheduled: I had fuel injection maintenance and throttle body cleaning done at the 15,000 mile mark. Why so soon? See above rant. I learned that lesson a long time ago, after my father quit buying me cars and I had to start paying for them myself. So go ahead and mock me if you wish and snicker that I’m wasting my money if you must.
Other than this, there have been no issues with the vehicle that have required any special attention or non-scheduled service needs.
It is worth noting, however, that I have – at two different times – had the anti-lock brake malfunction indicator light. In both cases, the light remained lit until the vehicle was driven for a short distance and the ignition was turned off. Upon restart, the indicator acted normally. Electronic Control Module dumping at the next scheduled dealer visit revealed no fault codes or messages. Whatever the problem was, it was the best kind – self-fixing.
Engine: Purrs like a kitten. Runs like a watch. No signs of any leaks from gaskets or seals. My engine doesn’t burn more than a very minimal amount of oil between changes with no signs of blow-by. No knock, pings or ticks. It still has that slight harmonic shimmy at around 1050 RPM on idle-down after a cold start but I still don’t find it to be concerning. The GEMA design crew deserves applause for this effort. It’s tough to come up with a winning design the first time out, but they seem to have done it with this one thus far.
A number of others on these forums have suffered (and I do mean "suffered") from poor or non-existent throttle response in their Calibers. The problem seems to most commonly manifest itself when putting the engine under load from a cold start, thus bypassing the idle-down and warm-up interval. While this is normally the case, there also have been a few reports of this malfunction striking at any time under any conditions.
I can say that I’ve never once experienced this problem. DCX seems to have thus far been unable to diagnose and cure this problem to most of the owner’s satisfaction. I truly feel for these owners and believe that they are indeed having a legitimate problem that needs to be debugged and fixed immediately. Loss of power is nothing to make light of and, if it occurs at an inopportune time, can put the driver and passenger(s) in a potentially perilous situation.
I firmly believe that this is either a software problem or a sensor problem. Perhaps it’s some combination of both. I also firmly believe that this is not a problem with the engine or the fuel system (from a mechanical or engineering point of view, anyway). If it were, it would’ve shown up on many, many more vehicles than what’s been reported so far. And it would also be reported on other DCX platforms using the same engine(s) like the Jeep Compass and Jeep Patriot, or the Dodge Avenger. To my knowledge, it hasn’t been an issue on those vehicles
CVT Transmission: Over a year after its first use by a current Dodge model, the CVT is still a lightning rod for derision. There are enough technical threads on these forums that fully explain the mechanics of how it works, so I shan’t go into detail here. If you need to know, seek out on of these threads.
The dissenters typically fall into two camps: a.) those who think that the CVT should allow better acceleration than it does, and, b.) those who think it should provide better fuel economy than it does.
The former group has a point when they argue that other CVT-equipped vehicles offer better acceleration than the Caliber. They also forget the fact that, in most cases, those vehicles have both larger engines and larger transmissions. I tested two before I purchased my Caliber; a 2006 Ford Freestyle and a 2006 Nissan Murano. Both were considerably quicker off the line and didn’t suffer from what some have called ‘lock-up lag."
Dead-stop takeoff power (usually referred to as "launch") come from how much torque (power) gets to the wheels from the transmission by way of the engine. In the other vehicles I mentioned, both have considerably larger engines and transmissions than the Caliber models do. This has a lot to do with their "launch"-ability. But so does their transmission control software.
And that’s where the largest difference lies in the Caliber vs. the other CVT-equipped cars. The DCX techies have opted to use a relatively restrictive profile in programming their CVT. It’s not that the GEMA engines can’t put out the torque, it’s that DCX is afraid of over-stressing the transmission. When you substitute a steel belt and variable-geometry pulleys for conventional gears and bands, you really do need to worry about spinning and stretching the steel belt and wearing grooves into the pulleys.
So if read complaints about the Caliber not showing the get-up-and-go that people think it should, now you have an answer to their issues. And if it’s not the answer that you want to hear – and if you’re reading this before purchasing a Caliber – then you might want to strongly consider getting the standard manual transmission in lieu of the CVT. Honestly.
As for the complaint about fuel economy, it’s also an issue of vehicle weight. Like Eric Cartman from "South Park," the Caliber may not be fat, but it is big-boned. It’s about the heaviest car in its size class. That counts for a lot. So if you want a smaller-sized vehicle with better fuel economy and want to take advantage of a CVT, I suggest looking at a Nissan Versa or a Honda Fit.
Personally, I wouldn’t trade my Caliber or CVT for anything right now. I truly enjoy the smoothness of the acceleration and the easy of transition from uphill to downhill driving without the obvious shudder of dropping in and out of conventional gears. And I feel that I’m getting good economy from this setup, particularly after I got the Technical Service Bulletin TSB 18-031-07 upgrade performed on my vehicle. Until something better comes along, I’m a devotee of the CVT transmission and don’t plan on buying another vehicle with a conventional tranny unless I have absolutely no choice.
Performance: In a word: flawless. My Caliber has never failed to start, stop or go wherever I wanted it to. Every switch still works, all motors still motor without effort, the only light bulb to have burned out did so only because of an impact, and even my handy-dandy detachable cargo flashlight still shines like a beacon.
But let’s not confuse performance with "high performance." This is not a high performance vehicle. It wasn’t designed to be and it doesn’t transcend those design limitations. You won’t smoke the tires or break any 0-60 MPH time records and you won’t beat many Civics, Integras, Mazda3s, or Passats (that is, unless the driver is a shmoe). If you want to do that, I suggest checking out the SRT-4 version of the Caliber. The Se, SXT, SXT Sport or R/T won’t get it done.
Comfort: I’m not your average sized guy. Check out pictures of me from the August Caliber meet near Atlanta in the galleries section. I’m 6’ 1" tall, weigh 400 lbs., and have a 60" waist. Face it, they don’t build many like me. Also, they don’t build many for me. Anyone who’s close to my height and girth know that it’s tough to find a vehicle that will fit you comfortably. While I can buy jeans and shirts from the King Size or Big & Tall catalogues, neither yet offer automobiles for the vertical and portly.
Cubic inch for cubic inch, this is by far the most spacious "small" vehicle I’ve ever had the pleasure of sitting in. I never thought that I’d fit so comfortably in it just to look at it. But I do fit quite well. The door openings are plenty wide enough for my bulky frame to enter and exit without any discomfort or strain. The driver’s seat is plenty wide enough for my ample tukus, and the center console never seems to be in the way. Leg room? I have plenty with the seat all the way back. Lap room? Again, plenty with the steering column tilted all the way up.
If I have once complaint about the interior comfort, it’s the same one that everyone else has: the center console arm rest is too low. Aside from that, it’s like Dodge asked me how to lay out a driver’s compartment for big people that would fit into a car that wasn’t a land yacht. My highest praise goes to the designers for their great and thoughtful work!
Ride: My 79 year old mother-in-law absolutely loves the ride. That should be enough of an endorsement to satisfy anyone. If it’s not, then you’re beyond satisfaction.
Economy: With my 2.0 and the CVT, I average anywhere between 26 to 27 MPG in strictly highway driving conditions. While this is lower than the advertised window sticker rating, it does fall completely in line with the newly-released 2008 standards for actual vehicle fuel economy under the new EPA guidelines.
Those familiar with these forums have already read about the wildly differing observed fuel economy from a wide variety of owners. Long-time readers also know that if you want to maximize fuel efficiency with the CVT, you must accelerate very conservatively and keep your top cruising speed no faster than 60 MPH. If you do this on a regular basis, I swear that you’ll pick up at least another 2 MPG, sometimes more. I’ve tried it and it works.
But I’m also influenced by The Dark Side and, therefore, cannot regularly get the optimum economy from my Caliber. This is by my choice. It’s not the fault of the vehicle. I’m willing to settle for the MPG I’m getting because – compared to my last vehicle (a 2004 Chevy TrailBlazer) – what I’m getting now is a Godsend.
But, if you’re one who demands optimum economy, do as I say, don’t do as I do. Puppy it. Use reasonably slow acceleration off the line whenever traffic and safety permit. Keep the top speed at no more than 60 MPH. Keep the maximum RPM at or below 2,200 as much as possible. Don’t floor the accelerator – even when passing. Oh, and don’t pass unless absolutely necessary. Don’t drive around with a bunch of stuff loading it down all of the time. Leave your air conditioning off for as much as comfortably possible (it can save you as much as 2 MPG).
Do all of these things and I will tell you from personal experience that you’ll get as good gas mileage from the Caliber as you would from any other comparable hatchback/wagon.
Interior: The inside has held up quite well thus far. The fact that there’s more plastic inside of the Caliber than there is in a typical Hollywood starlet has often been a major criticism from the automotive press in their reviews of the vehicle. For me, it’s a non-issue. It’s an entry-level vehicle and I paid an entry-level price for it.
I can understand the criticism that when you get into an SXT Sport or an R/T there should be some kind of automatic upgrade to something else. And I kind of agree. But I’m still happy with what I’ve got. If you’re using this review to influence your potential buying decision and you have an aversion to plastic, then you honestly might want to consider another vehicle.
Even so, take this into consideration: despite the amount of plastic involved with the Caliber’s cockpit, my vehicle has no squeaks, rattles or pops. And I think that’s quite an achievement considering that most of the Interstate that I drive on is in about the same condition as a cow path. And none of the last three new vehicles I owned prior to the Caliber could share claim to this statement. I’m as impressed as I can be.
Tires: They are the stock 17" Firestone Affinity tires that came with the vehicle. They have been rotated and balanced every 6,000 miles and show no abnormal wear patterns and still have at least ¼" of tread left on them. Too bad they’re going to last for awhile yet.
These are the biggest disappointment for me regarding my Caliber and my only true gripe. These things are loud. Really loud. Ted Nugent loud. Loud enough that, at highway speeds – especially on concrete surfaces – if I’m going to listen to the radio I have to crank it into the low-to-mid 20s to drown out the tires. I wish I had a dB meter because I’d love to know really just how loud these things are. I know it’s not an alignment problem because I’ve had that checked by a trusted tire shop and because there’s no obvious wear patterns that are usually associated with under/over inflation or tow/camber issues.
Unfortunately, it will be sometime before I can do anything about it. I’m not really in a position financially right now to either replace the rubber or to try soundproofing as an alternative. Plus I hate to throw away good rubber just on general principle. Other people here claim not to have tire noise issues so maybe it’s just me. But I do know that my hearing isn’t that sensitive – particularly after the abuse it has had in my wasted youth from going to rock concerts without ear protection. But some of those others are also driving either SE’s with the 15" tires or R/T’s with the 18" tires. That also may make a difference as, when I test drove the first Caliber, it was an SE and didn’t have anywhere near the tire noise that my SXT does.
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I could go on, but I think that six pages should be enough to give you an idea of what you can expect from a Dodge Caliber in the future. If you’ve already purchased one, then there’s about a 90% chance that you know and agree with most of what I’ve discussed here. Caliber owners tend to be happier with their cars than what I’ve seen from other new owners of new vehicles. I guess it just comes from driving a "anything but cute" car.
If you’re using this review (or others) to influence your buying decision, all I can tell you is this: it’s the best driving, best running, most comfortable and most fun-to-drive car that I’ve ever owned. It’s part of the family. I love to drive it and it loves to be driven. From a vehicular standpoint, it’s the best investment I’ve ever made in a car in my 28 years as a driver.
Joe Kirsch
CaliberForumz.com