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Central console LED Conversion (lots of pics)

18K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  vmejia76 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
It was a bit 'of time that me whirred by the head to replace incandescent lamps with LEDs, and then I'm armed with holy patience and I began to disassemble the center console to study well, how to do it.

In the end the only option was to make the bridge of two resistors and an LED.
The ESP button and lowering the lights were very easy to make but for the top I had so many problems.
How to produce a directional light LEDs, unlike incandescent bulbs, the lower left corner and red zone heating were not enlightened enough, I had to tilt the LEDs (those big bulbs.)

The resistors used for all the LEDs are 330 Ohm SMD 1206 (two for one LED)
Buttons for ESP and lowering the lights I used the green LED 3.2V 20mA PLCC 3528 580 MCD
For three small bulbs I used the yellow LEDs PLCC 3528 600-800 mcd 20mA 3.2V
For 4 large bulbs I used the white LED 3528 PLCC 500 mcd 3.2V 20 mA (to get the green light you must use yellow LEDs)

The LED lights for the buttons, and ESP (the bridge mode)
In the first version I cut the cap and put the green LEDs, but after I decided to leave it and put the white LED

The original incandescent bulbs
Bulb large diameter 4.7 mm
Bulb small diameter 3.1 mm


For climate change:
4 large bulbs (yellow square) with white LED light you get the blue light. With yellow you get green light.
3 small bulbs (red square)
Those in green are already present

The bulbs replaced with LEDs

The LED at 45 degrees for the light uniformly in all areas.


The solution for large bulbs


The bridge for small bulbs

you get this

update 22/04/2011

All white LEDs without cutting silicon cap

 
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#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
#7 · (Edited)
GREAT! Thank you for this!! :)

And you have used for all LEDs 2x 330 Ohm resistors? (Because on the pictures there is the number 3300)

The lowering lights level indicators are still yellow?
I found these (because I want to have everything in white (blue)):
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/...SHOP_AREA_17320&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

But they are having 2500 mcd? May I use them also?
And do you have on every LED SMD used 2x the 330 Ohm resistors? I found these:
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/...SHOP_AREA_17445&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

Therefore I need 7x 3528 White LEDs, and 14x 330 Ohm 1026 SMD resistors?

Thank you!
 
#10 ·
GREAT! Thank you for this!! :)

And you have used for all LEDs 2x 330 Ohm resistors? (Because on the pictures there is the number 3300)

The lowering lights level indicators are still yellow?
I found these (because I want to have everything in white (blue)):
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/...SHOP_AREA_17320&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

But they are having 2500 mcd? May I use them also?
And do you have on every LED SMD used 2x the 330 Ohm resistors? I found these:
http://www.conrad.at/ce/de/product/...SHOP_AREA_17445&promotionareaSearchDetail=005

Therefore I need 7x 3528 White LEDs, and 14x 330 Ohm 1026 SMD resistors?

Thank you!
For all blue you must use all white LEDs 3528 PLCC-2 500 mcd 3.2V 20 mA or higher.
The resistor number 3300 means 330 Ohm ± 1 % tolerance. Blue ones are high quality resistor from KOA. https://www.distrelec.it/ishop/Datasheets/06016752.pdf

I do not think that they are led from 2500 mcd but many vendors declared absurd values to sell better. The 500 MCD is very very bright LED.
Many of my LED 500 MCD are brighter than those from 1500 MCD. It depends where you buy it.
 
#11 ·
Hello!

Thanks for you reply! I would by the one with 500MCA but the shop is having only the white SMDs with 2500MCD. I would be more than happy woth the same result like from the pictures above. The shop that is selling those 2500 is a good quality electronic shop, but as I said they only have these.. Are they only "brighter" than the ones with 500MCD or are they also hotter then the 500MCD (I don't want to melt anything inside).

I don't mind about the brightness, I just want it to have like on the pictures, but thw shop is only selling the 2500mcd..And I don't want to buy any cheap china ebay stuff where I get 50x of those LED SMD for 12 bucks..

If I can use the 2500 without any side efects (melting the plastic) then I would buy them.. Hopefully they arent too bright.. :p

But if the plastic isn't melted with the stock bulbs which are producing around 70 degrees celsius, then it shouldn meltwith the SMD neither..

Thanks!
 
#16 ·
Unfortunately the original poster is the only one that can fix it. The images were deleted by him or Image shack.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I'm so sorry, but this forum does not allow editing of posts. The images have been deleted from Immageshack, and I have them restored but can not restore it to the first post.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Central console LED Conversion (lots of pics)

It was a bit 'of time that me whirred by the head to replace incandescent lamps with LEDs, and then I'm armed with holy patience and I began to disassemble the center console to study well, how to do it.

In the end the only option was to make the bridge of two resistors and an LED.
The ESP button and lowering the lights were very easy to make but for the top I had so many problems.
How to produce a directional light LEDs, unlike incandescent bulbs, the lower left corner and red zone heating were not enlightened enough, I had to tilt the LEDs (those big bulbs.)

The resistors used for all the LEDs are 330 Ohm SMD 1206 (two for one LED)
Buttons for ESP and lowering the lights I used the green LED 3.2V 20mA PLCC 3528 580 MCD
For three small bulbs I used the yellow LEDs PLCC 3528 600-800 mcd 20mA 3.2V
For 4 large bulbs I used the white LED 3528 PLCC 500 mcd 3.2V 20 mA (to get the green light you must use yellow LEDs)

The LED lights for the buttons, and ESP (the bridge mode)



In the first version I cut the cap and put the green LEDs, but after I decided to leave it and put the white LED



The original incandescent bulbs
Bulb large diameter 4.7 mm
Bulb small diameter 3.1 mm



For climate change:
4 large bulbs (yellow square) with white LED light you get the blue light. With yellow you get green light.
3 small bulbs (red square)
Those in green are already present



The bulbs replaced with LEDs







The LED at 45 degrees for the light uniformly in all areas.



The solution for large bulbs



The bridge for small bulbs





you get this



update 22/04/2011

All white LEDs without cutting silicon cap


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With the pyrometer attached to the tab with the incandescent bulb temperature reaches 47 ° C.
The temperature of the glass bulb is 100 ° C.

Temperature light bulb turned off



Temperature few minutes after ignition



PCB temperature with LED



Solved the problem of overheating of center console
 
#19 ·
I'm so sorry, but this forum does not allow editing of posts. The images have been deleted from Immageshack, and I have them restored but can not restore it to the first post.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Very impressive that you backed up the original post.
I'd rep if I could.
Edited your links back into the thread. Well done :)
 
#18 · (Edited)
Can it be that this conversion has blown up the inverter from the instrument table (gauges)? Because after I have done the conversion a couple of weeks later the illumination of the gauges is flickering.. (Just asking..)

Thanks again for your explanations!!!

EDIT: And regarding the pictures problems, have you thought to make a PICASA account? (I think you get there 2GB on webspace to upload pictures, and I think that it would be a good thing for all of yours followers) :)
 
#20 ·
wow... this is awesome!

now i know why the assembly is getting that hot...

lol can i send u my assembly and u solder it for me?!
i don't dare... lol
;)
 
#21 ·
wauw nice upgrade!!

could you do "a how to" of getting the unit apart? One light in the unit is broken and ik would like to replace this one but i'm not getting the unit seperated. I'm replaccing it with a stock light. Nothing like the job you did but it wil work for me..
thanks :)
 
#22 ·
well lets put it this way should be easy.

Step 1 - you will need to empty out your center console and locate the screws on the bottom. take those out.

Step 2 - pull your ebrake up and you should be able to lift the hole center console out but dont foget be careful you DO NOT want to break the clips.

Step 3 - unhook the wires which are hooked to the unit. once you have it off, you will flip it over.

Step 4 - you need to take the screws out that are holding your cup holders in once you do that pull it apart from the center console carefully because the rings might stick i know mine did.

Step 5 - you can remove the light rings from the cup holders and change them then reassemble the whole kit back together in reverse order of my instructions.

If you have any further questions message me and i will walk you through any other questions you have.
 
#23 ·
I think you mis understood me.. The led remplacement you did was in the hvac? The unit for regulating the vents and ac. Those steps you wrote above here is of the luminated cupholders isn't ?
I'm having problems with the hvac unit. One of Those lights are broken. You did à fantastic job with the led. But how did you get in that unit.
 
#27 ·
Hey, I own a jeep patriot (same platform) and I'm planning on doing the same thing but in 5k white. I know ill have to scrape off the blue tint, but thats not a big deal. Can you tell me how many of the LEDs you bought? In my jeep we have 3 knobs, so ill just buy a few extras. Also, how many resistors did you buy? and how did you make your bridges?
As well as someone else, How did you remove your knobs? I tried and broke it and had to purchase an entire new AC controller :doh: Thanks for your time, id appreciate the help!
 
#28 · (Edited)
I plan to replace the bulbs with LEDs after some burned out.

Could anyone tell me the exact type of LEDs (voltage, color etc) and resistors to achieve an exact STOC LOOK (color and brightness) as with the bulbs ?

Also could I use "regular" LEDs (bulb shaped) instead of SMD to get rid of the bridge and achieve a uniform illumination?
Like these

thx
 
#29 · (Edited)
Power of LEDs and incandescents is not measured the same way.
You may be able to do it by LUMENS not sure.

Resistors is only for blinkers.

For Brakes / Fog / and blinker I would go for a Spider in the stock units.
Why would you want an exact stock look, embrace the change.
Best to be on the bright side.

I posted all the options here
http://www.caliberforumz.com/showthread.php?t=37467

Spider

 
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